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Originally posted by orangecrush
1. what am i looking at $$ wise? average let's say.
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Depends on where you go, who does it. When it comes to this, you usually get what you pay for. Are you pulling the head/manifold yourself? If not, add a good $400-$800 labor for R/R. Any shop can do a basic polish and port match, and probably not charge you more than a few hundred for it. For that level of work, though, you could do it yourself.
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2. with 144k on the clock, is it worth it?
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Do you plan on keeping the car? If not, then no. If you suspect it will die soon, no. If you plan on keeping it and don't suspect any other problems, then yes.
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3. what am i looking at as far as downtime?
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Depends. The r&r and p/p work doesn't take as long as some shops might have you think. If you've done it before, the manifold/head r&r should be a 3-4 hours either way (off or on). If you haven't done it, I'd allot a full day to pull it and a half day to put it back on. If you have a shop do it, expect to pay for a full days labor for R/R. The actual p/p work should take a full day for someone versed in it, probably only a half day for someone who's done an H23 before.
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4. typical performace gains?
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I can't speak for the H23, but you can generally expect a 10-20% gain from Hondas, with 20% being on the "inefficient" side of VTEC motors. The H23 probably isn't that "tweaked" (like an S2k or Type R) but the cams probably are a bigger detriment than the port condition. I would probably suspect a 10% gain, probably enhanced by a cam. Say you get a cam that promises a 10% gain on an otherwise stock motor, you might see another 5% on top of that with your head porting (meaning 25% overall instead of 20%). This is just an example.
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i've heard prices from $300 to almost $2g's. i know that in this line, a lot of times it really is you get what you pay for, but with this much range, i'm not sure if 300 is too cheap or 2000 is too much! thanks for your help
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Bingo. Do you want Farmer Fred to do it, or T.O.O.? Check out His web site on the H22 manifold and head, these will probably be a real good starting point.
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also...any thoughts on the SAFC? i'd like to be able to tune somewhat, but right now i have no idea if i'm running rich or lean and how much this could help me...300 is a lot to toss out for something that's not gonna work. thanks again
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The V-AFC does wonders on the H22. I would think that something similar would help a lot on the H23, I can't believe their programming would be any different. Honestly, without VTEC, though, a FPR would probably be cheaper and as effective.
Isn't the S-AFC a boost-dependent AFC?
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