Alright as some of you may or may not know my awesome timimg belt lost about 5 or 6 teeth. I am in the process of ripping the engine down. I am able to turn the cam gears?? If I had a bent valve/valves would I still be able to turn the cam gears?? Wouldn't they get hung up and not move freely?? I am stuck, should I change the T-belt/water pump/auto tensioner or keep taking the head off??
I would think that is a valve is going to get bent it would get bent while open so it could get stuck open. On the other hand they could bend shut. It is still possible that they are bent but I would seriously doubt it if you can turn the cams. Just try and swap the timing belt first. I would bet that it will start right up.
I am kinda thinking this way as well. I guess there is no good way to tell other than taking the cylinder head off. I am going to change the belt and all the other goodies before I rip off the head. Thanks for the info Zimm
i say if you're pulling the head, go ahead and replace everything else down there while you can.....ie water pump, tensioner, balancer shaft belt and timing belt. i would also prolly have the head milled depending on the miles too....do it while its apart
__________________ 1995 Prelude VTEC .::. with mods
2000 GSXR 750 .::. Yellow/Black (with even more mods)
i've been there. I ripped off like 30 teeth. all 16 were bent. i cant remember if i could turn the cams. a good way to tell if they are bent (if you have an h23, not sure on the h22) is take off the valve cover and fiddle with the rocker arms. if the rocker arms have a lot of play than that is telling you the valve isnt coming all the way back up. in some cases i could pull out the rocker arms where i had the really bent valves.
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1992 Prelude SI Type SH EBP VTEC BB1 SiR H23 DOHC 4th gen Type-R BB4 Milano Nordic Mist F22 JDM-spec 5th gen Type-S 4WS H22 EDM Mugen edition
Cool I will try this as soon as I get home. I know I can see the exhaust valves and they are moving and seating just fine. I can't see the intake valves so I do not know but the cam moves just as good as the exhaust cam does. I will check out the rocker arms and go from there. I am kinda hoping I did bend some then it gives me an excuse to send it away for some other goodies like P&P and what not. On the other hand I miss driving the car so I. The engine has prolly about 60k and looks pretty good. why would milling be necessary? Head warpage??
when my belt broke I did all the work myself. I replaced:
all 16 valves
all valve seals
headgasket
t-belt
balancer belt
IM gasket
thermostat
and a few other things
I didnt even get the new valves seated because I was on a extreme budget. yours sounds as if you could just slap new belts on it and it would be fine, I doubt you have any head warpage. but I wouldnt doubt that some of your IM valves are slightly bent.
With my h23 all the exhaust valves were slightly bent, and 5-6 of the Intake valves were slightly bent. Then there were a couple intake valves that couldnt even stand up anymore.
I have some photos somewhere on imagestation. im trying to find them. edit: found them:
sorry really crappy cam
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1992 Prelude SI Type SH EBP VTEC BB1 SiR H23 DOHC 4th gen Type-R BB4 Milano Nordic Mist F22 JDM-spec 5th gen Type-S 4WS H22 EDM Mugen edition
Last edited by fourthgeneration; 06-05-2003 at 02:45 PM.
so you think I should keep on ripping it down or put new belt/pump on and try it out. I wish there was a way to start it with out all the junk back hooked up just to hear it. I mean I would hate to get it all back together and have a poor running lude. I guess the only way to know for sure is yank the head. fock this is so frustrating. don't you think if may exhuast valves look OK wouldn't that mean the IM valves maybe didn't get hit. allright lets say the belt goes 5 teeth and the car kept running then it just stopped. But the pistons perhaps never got out enough to make it to the valve trian?????
what exactly happened? I was on the freeway in 4th gear at 4k about to go into 5th when mine broke, thats why all 16 were DOA.
If all your ex. valves look fine, than maybe you got away. How sure are you that they are seated fine? all mine looked seated fine until I pulled the head. I dont mean to scare you.
How much have you taken apart? My car was down for like 3-4 months and I hated every second of it. it was really aggravating. I've been there, it really really sucks. Most of that down time was just saving up money and waiting for parts. and then sending back and waiting for the correct parts.
The work itself combined was probably like 9-10 days of removing head, putting new valves/valve seals, and then putting the head/manifolds back on, and then timing belt. The actual work doesnt take long, its the parts that **** you over.
If I was in your situation I would order those parts I listed above right now and in the time it takes you to decide what you're going to do, the parts will already be in. If you dont need the parts you can simply return them.
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1992 Prelude SI Type SH EBP VTEC BB1 SiR H23 DOHC 4th gen Type-R BB4 Milano Nordic Mist F22 JDM-spec 5th gen Type-S 4WS H22 EDM Mugen edition
I don't think with all that I have read and heard about these scenarios I could have gotten "lucky". I hate that the car is down but I think I am going to keep taking it apart. All i got to take out now is the cam shafts head bolts. I have a helms so I have instruction. I think i am going to have JG or someone do a head jod on it while i am at it. That way i get new valves ,P&P, and the other goodies. I just will not have the piece of mind that it is all correct in there. On a funny side I talked to a local honda dealer and they wanted like 1800 to do a work around on my head. I would rather swap in a long block for that. lol ne ways thanks for the info I beleive it has helped. I will be wrenching all weekend if anyone wants to rip on a JDM h22.
good luck. removing the head isnt that hard at all. IMO the timing, balancer belt was more tricky...
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1992 Prelude SI Type SH EBP VTEC BB1 SiR H23 DOHC 4th gen Type-R BB4 Milano Nordic Mist F22 JDM-spec 5th gen Type-S 4WS H22 EDM Mugen edition
in my opinion its more time consuming than difficult. if you take your time, mark everything and follow the helm, you really cant screw it up. if you dont feel comfortable working on the head once its off, you can always bring it to a machine shop and have them do the valves and seals for you. just be real careful when reassembling the timing. make sure evrything is set to TDC. good luck with it and we are here if you get stuck
__________________ 1995 Prelude VTEC .::. with mods
2000 GSXR 750 .::. Yellow/Black (with even more mods)
yeah, it takes a lot of time and elbow grease. and then there is usually one bolt that takes you an hour or two. (like those got damn IM bolts )
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1992 Prelude SI Type SH EBP VTEC BB1 SiR H23 DOHC 4th gen Type-R BB4 Milano Nordic Mist F22 JDM-spec 5th gen Type-S 4WS H22 EDM Mugen edition
Originally posted by fourthgeneration yeah, it takes a lot of time and elbow grease. and then there is usually one bolt that takes you an hour or two. (like those got damn IM bolts )
or more likely the crank pulley bolt
__________________ 1995 Prelude VTEC .::. with mods
2000 GSXR 750 .::. Yellow/Black (with even more mods)
Originally posted by quickprelude in my opinion its more time consuming than difficult. if you take your time, mark everything and follow the helm, you really cant screw it up. if you dont feel comfortable working on the head once its off, you can always bring it to a machine shop and have them do the valves and seals for you. just be real careful when reassembling the timing. make sure evrything is set to TDC. good luck with it and we are here if you get stuck
I appreciate it guys. I will keep you all updated on my progress.
I appreciate it guys. I will keep you all updated on my progress.
Update:
i got the cylinder head off, holy sh!t are the IM bolts are soooo freaking hard to get off. I just took it out with the cylinder head. NEways I believe the valves are in perfect condition. However i am telling my wife different in order to get my P&P and multi angle valve job done. I got a quote for 400 to do a P&P does this sound descent?? I will post pics tonight after work of the cylinder head and pistons.
i got the cylinder head off, holy sh!t are the IM bolts are soooo freaking hard to get off. I just took it out with the cylinder head. NEways I believe the valves are in perfect condition. However i am telling my wife different in order to get my P&P and multi angle valve job done. I got a quote for 400 to do a P&P does this sound descent?? I will post pics tonight after work of the cylinder head and pistons.
damn....$400 doesnt sound bad at all. where is that from? a reputable shop?
__________________ 1995 Prelude VTEC .::. with mods
2000 GSXR 750 .::. Yellow/Black (with even more mods)
Ain't the motherf***in truth. I had to loosen that bolt on the JDM H22 on the engine stand and I thought I was going to pull the mount bolts out of the block!!! It ended up taking about 600 ft-lbs of torque!!!
NEways, good to hear about the valves. I would be worried about the $400 P&P if I were you. One thing I have learned about Honda's is "You get what you pay for". It is pretty easy to screw-up a P&P if you are not careful.
damn....$400 doesnt sound bad at all. where is that from? a reputable shop?
I called a local Honda performance store. They basically said they send it to a local machine shop. He also said he does more b18 work then anything else but they do know h22's. We shall see I guess.
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