What would you guys do if you had a JDM h22 with I/H/E/Vafc(untuned) . I mean I think I was leaning to get the P&P done but I am wondering if I would be better off to get the cams now and P&P later. I do not intend to go FI so if that helps at all. I am totally torn apart and want to get some extra horsies while I am at it. what do you guys suggest
I think you'll get more ( and cost less$$$$) with the cams. PLus you'll need to find a reputable shop to do the P&P.. some shops just try and remove as much material as they can resulting in a loss of HP
Sik96prelude got CRAZY gains w/ his crower stage 2's AND headwork.
J
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Jason (AIM-->JDMSLICK96, or MSN IM-->JDMSLICK96)... For SALE: Recaro SRD Limited Edition seats, VTEC sub enclosure w/ Kicker 6x9 Free Air subwoofer (& free amp). PM w/ offers. Rest In Eternal Peace, Capt Derek Argel, Capt Jeremy Fresques, Pfc Chris Hill, & Sgt John House (all lost to Iraqi conflict).
Anybody want to buy my Lude? (Will sell in either stock or fairly modded trim).
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Brandon
Captain - my other car has two engines
1993 Prelude Si (JDM H22A with automatic to 5spd Swap) My white 93 Vtec
AIM: Mach30SiR
I am going with skunk2 cam gears and the stage 2 crowers with the stock idle lob. I am not going to upgrade valve train now but I will in the near future. Does Ne one run this combo or know how it will be???
i say you get the cams...save your ass off and then send your head to dpr and have it p&p, along with some new rocker arms and stainless valves/springs, the works...
Originally posted by rybred i say you get the cams...save your ass off and then send your head to dpr and have it p&p, along with some new rocker arms and stainless valves/springs, the works...
that's what i would do!
I will look into this when I can, but for now the cams and cam gears are going in. If the gains are good and it keeps me interested in the car I will get the P&P down the road. later
Originally posted by rybred you should get new rocker arms when you put the new cams in though! they are worn down to your old cam profiles
What if I don't. Will it run like crap?? I have looked on hondaautoparts . com and it looks like its $133 for just one arm??? I hope that figure is for them all. Can anyone clarify this for me. Do I need this done and what should I pay. 8x133=$1064=No Cams for me!!! Arrrggg This car crap there is always something else.
i'm no cam expert, but that's what i've always been told, if you change your cams, you should have new rocker arm surface to match your cams...i'm sure they will run ok, but not the best they could...
it seems like alot of people put new cams in, without touching the valvetrain, which i would never do, but hey, people are looking for quick gains for cheap, and don't mind to deal with the consequences later...
most likely it will be a reliability issue...but i'm sure they will run fine, but don't quote me on that, like i said, i'm no expert on this topic...i'm sure the N/A guys will know better
Originally posted by rybred i'm no cam expert, but that's what i've always been told, if you change your cams, you should have new rocker arm surface to match your cams...i'm sure they will run ok, but not the best they could...
it seems like alot of people put new cams in, without touching the valvetrain, which i would never do, but hey, people are looking for quick gains for cheap, and don't mind to deal with the consequences later...
most likely it will be a reliability issue...but i'm sure they will run fine, but don't quote me on that, like i said, i'm no expert on this topic...i'm sure the N/A guys will know better
Thanks bro I have been searching and now I am not so sure about the reliability issue with the cams and the rocker arms over time. I am now unsure about the whole setup
update. I talked with Brian Crower himself and with the stage 2 with stock idle lob I should be fine with stock valve train and I do not need to get new rocker arms. That would be only if you have scored arms. I do not mine are smooth and look great. looks like I am going ahead as scheduled. will update when I get em.
keep us updated...i want to know how it runs as well, and please post updates a year down the road, if there is anything to report...if you remember...if your idle starts actin up or anything
when i start building my h22 from scratch i need to know whether to buy used rocker arms or new ones...if i can save money, and not risk any reliability at all, then i would use the used ones,
but i'm gonna research the hell out of that issue as i cannot base my decision on one guy that works for the company that i bought the product from...hope everything goes good for ya!
Originally posted by rybred keep us updated...i want to know how it runs as well, and please post updates a year down the road, if there is anything to report...if you remember...if your idle starts actin up or anything
when i start building my h22 from scratch i need to know whether to buy used rocker arms or new ones...if i can save money, and not risk any reliability at all, then i would use the used ones,
but i'm gonna research the hell out of that issue as i cannot base my decision on one guy that works for the company that i bought the product from...hope everything goes good for ya!
I hear ya loud and clear. i work for a resin manufacturer and I tell everyone our shizzle is the best.
I have done a good amount of research to think that its gonna be OK. I will not sell my jdm cams untill I know beyond a reasonable doubt that the cams are OK. I will update everyone because this topics seems well a little sketchy to all, atleast thats what I get from my searching. Lets say I put em in and they kick arse then good for me. I put em in and they go like crap or even worse ruin my head, I will buy a new one for 400 or so. (Basically I talked myself into growing a sack and trying it out.) peace
matt
Last edited by Dukespeed : 06-24-2003 at 02:18 PM.
Originally posted by Ritteri Hey Matt, you did you snag the new cams yet? How r they? Are you running with a stock valve train? What did Mr. Crower have to say exactly?
I am getting close but I am not up yet (waiting on new auto tensioner). I did speak with MR. Crower over the phone and he said I would be fine to run the stock valve train unless I changed the rev limit. When I was talking to him I was more concerned about rocker arm damage over time and If I had to replace these when installing new cams. He said only if they are scarred would I need to replce them. But he said I should get anywhere from 20 -25 Hp out of them when properly tuned in. We'll see. I called there just looking for some technical questions and the next thing I now I guy answers with "good Morning this is Brian Crower" Cool guy too give em a call if you got alot of questions. Check the NA forum as to where I got em. Peace dude.
20-25whp? is that his claims from just the cams alone? Or with your head properly ported and polished along with proper intake and exhaust to help gas flow?? You doing the install on the cams yourself?
Originally posted by Ritteri 20-25whp? is that his claims from just the cams alone? Or with your head properly ported and polished along with proper intake and exhaust to help gas flow?? You doing the install on the cams yourself?
I think he meant 20 HP not whp. But that is what he said. Yes I did the install myself but I was already torn apart from taking off my head. So I was gonna have to put in my old cams so I just bought these to try it out. I did not get a P&P (yet). It will proly be sometime untill I do. I wanna get everything in there now running smooth and after that "mod buzz" wears off I will go in the direction of the P&P. But the install was really pretty easy especially with the T-belt off already. I think to do it properly you need to go through the same maintenance as you would changing the T-belt. (Someone correct me if I am wrong on that but that is what is what I would think).
You gonna be satisfied with those cams? Especially with the rather large powerband hole from about 5400rpm to the 6000rpm vtec point which is where that cam kicks in at for power?I would have opted for the regular stage 2 cam's. The idle lobe bottom performance is alot better.
Originally posted by Ritteri You gonna be satisfied with those cams? Especially with the rather large powerband hole from about 5400rpm to the 6000rpm vtec point which is where that cam kicks in at for power?I would have opted for the regular stage 2 cam's. The idle lobe bottom performance is alot better.
I guess I really didn't want to mess witht the idle of the car I have heard some cars with more aggressive cams that idle like poop. So I unno I guess only time will tell. I have to wait, UPS owns me.
Yeah, the cams you ordered are designed to have VTEC engage at 6000rpm, and with stock idle lobes that only pull marginal from idle to the factory VTEC set point. Its gonna leave you a large hole where the engine is gonna lag bad. The stage 1 cams are actually better by crower if your looking to keep a mild idle lobe with stock rev limit in place, the Stage 2 units can be run also with stock valvetrain but you can over rev or misshift or thats the end of em. So springs and retainers are adviseable.
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