I was doing a NA build and realized that I will not meet my hp goal. Thus, I am going to incorporate Nitrous into my Lude. I will go with a Hondata for tuning. Do you recommend a P28 or P72 ecu to work with? I cannot use my P13 with Hondata.
I would like to buy the ecu, preferably new. Any suggestions on where I should look to buy? I do not trust ebay... several of my friends have been ripped off. Thank you for your help.
new? ha, if ur willing to pay the price from honda for a NEW ECU... that alone will cost you more than the hondata itself. For the price of a NEW ecu, chipping that ecu and hondata you might as well get a TRUE STANDALONE like a EMS from AEM. I would highly suggest calling around the junk yards and locating the ecu from there. It will save you quite a bit of $. Anyhow... difference between p28 and p72 from what i remember is having a knock sensor... p28 doesn't use knock p72 does.
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93 Prelude VTEC - Turbo & Still Going!
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92 Prelude 4WS -GONE!
94 Prelude SI -SOLD! 2 a
89 240sx Fastback - SOLD!
91 240SR Fastback -SOLD!
90 240sx Fastback -Gone to lil sis
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new? ha, if ur willing to pay the price from honda for a NEW ECU... that alone will cost you more than the hondata itself. For the price of a NEW ecu, chipping that ecu and hondata you might as well get a TRUE STANDALONE like a EMS from AEM. I would highly suggest calling around the junk yards and locating the ecu from there. It will save you quite a bit of $. Anyhow... difference between p28 and p72 from what i remember is having a knock sensor... p28 doesn't use knock p72 does.
For the price of a ECU and hondata, combined should be ~500-600 dollars.
go further down, and it has a lot of information about the pros/cons of p72 and p28
Yes, i know that if he bought the p28/p72 used... he posted that he wanted a pref NEW ecu... which u can only get from a Honda/Acura dealership, in which they will charge u an arm and a leg for it. Not to mention he will need to chip the p28/p72.
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93 Prelude VTEC - Turbo & Still Going!
94 Prelude VTEC - Parted & Crushed
92 Prelude 4WS -GONE!
94 Prelude SI -SOLD! 2 a
89 240sx Fastback - SOLD!
91 240SR Fastback -SOLD!
90 240sx Fastback -Gone to lil sis
98 240sx Kouki - In Progress
96 240sx Zenki - NEW Project!
I know that it is more money for new, but my cousin got a used ecu with a "Mugen" chip for his Lude. The ECU somehow managed to blow up his engine from bad programing. He called Mugen in Japan (as he speaks Japanese) and Mugen verified that they never made a program or chip for the Lude... they are all homemade programs.
The reason why the MUGEN chip blew your buddies motor is because it is a dick program from ebay that ups your rev limit and dumps on some more timing. The increased timing is what more than likely blew the engine... but then again who even knows what types of AF's he was pulling. The higher revs don't do anything since the h22's power dies around the 7500-8k range with stock cams.
As far as what ECU to run, it doesn't matter. If you want to keep your IAB and knock sensor, run the p72. If you don't, run the less expensive p28. I can help you get a hondata chipped p28/72 if you want. Just drop me an email at AVengineering1@aol.com
As far as running a 'real ems' goes... AEM is not for everyone. The EMS is only as good as its tuner. If you can't find a guy who knows what he is doing on the AEM EMS you'll regret getting it everytime you crank your car up. Hondata is simple and straight to the point and will only run you $450 for a chipped p28 with s200 unit (the s200b is an additional 250). Well those are my prices... they differ from dealer to dealer.
I recommend hondata on the majority of daily driven cars that I do. EMS is good for the build in boost control, traction control, and on the fly tuning that I always do whenever I take my car out, hehe.
PrecisionH23 is correct. Those "Mugen" and "Spoon" and "JUN" chips you can find on eBay are homemade chips that dont do any good for your lude. They just raise (or sometimes remove) the redline, and retard the ignition timing to an incredibly unsafe degree. Don't blame the "used ecu" for blowing up the engine if it had a pseudo-"Mugen" chip in it. Save yourself the money and buy a stock used ECU.
Neptune is great... but only certain dyno's are allowed to use the program. Go with the EMS most familiar with your dyno tuner. If he is only familiar with the v-afc... find a new t00ner.
As far as what ECU to run, it doesn't matter. If you want to keep your IAB and knock sensor, run the p72. If you don't, run the less expensive p28.
I'm pretty sure that if you're building an H22A and you want VTEC to engage, you're going to need the P72. When VTEC engages, the IAB opens up and the P28 cannot control the IAB. Without the IAB opening up, VTEC cannot engage properly.
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TwizT aka Trevor
JRSC * Tuned by DL Motorsports * Built by AutoExpress Crew
I'm pretty sure that if you're building an H22A and you want VTEC to engage, you're going to need the P72. When VTEC engages, the IAB opens up and the P28 cannot control the IAB. Without the IAB opening up, VTEC cannot engage properly.
I don't believe that is correct.
VTEC will engage properly on both the P28 and P72. The P28 just lacks the knock sensor and IAB control.
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VTEC will engage properly on both the P28 and P72. The P28 just lacks the knock sensor and IAB control.
You're wrong. Do you even know how VTEC engages and what needs to happen for it to engage on an H22A ? On the H22A , the IAB's open up on the IAB plate underneath the intake plenum during VTEC. When the IAB's open up, the incoming air not only goes through the first set of intake runners, but it also goes through the second set of shorter runners, which are opened by the IAB. Thus engaging VTEC at a certain RPM. (Don't believe me, check the Helms manual) The P72 can control this because it controls the Integra GSR's IAB the same way as the H22A, therefore, they have very similar setups.
The reason why you can't use the P28 is because this ecu was meant for the civic and the civic does not have the IAB plate. The civic only has one set of runners in the intake manifold, not two, like the H22A has. So it cannot control the IAB's on the H22A. So, in order for the H22A to engage VTEC, it needs not only to reach a certain RPM, but it also needs the IAB's to open up to let the incoming air into the second set of shorter runners. That is why the P28 will not engage VTEC properly on the H22A, and why you must use the P72.
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TwizT aka Trevor
JRSC * Tuned by DL Motorsports * Built by AutoExpress Crew
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