my temp gauge is very screwy, lemme give ya the run down.
background: 96 si/ 94 jdm h22a m2b4 swap
OCCASIONALLY(not all the time) the temp gauge rises above normal. when this happens i turn the car off and turn it back on, the temp gauge will be back to normal(sometimes cooler) when the car is restarted.
yesterday i changed the two temp sensors and thermostat. the old temp snesors looked kinda burnt? on the ends(dark in color compared to the new sensors) anyways i flushed the all the coolant when i did this also following the honda shop manual my friend got me from a dealership(bled the air out of it and all and filled everything back up)
today i was driving and it started doing its ****ty overheating scenario again. i pulled over, turned it off and on(gauge did the usual) check the collant level, everythign was good) oil looked great too.
CODES: now, my car IS throwing a code 12, EGR valve(only comes on after the car is fully heated up and it goes off everytime i turn the car off), i was thinking maybe the egr valve is stuck open? and is constantly heating the intake charge with exhaust?
FANS: now my fans do come on(ive seen em come on a couple times) but when the temp gauge goes up i pop the hood and look for the fans, they are not spinning. maybe replace the thermo fan switch or something?
RADIATOR: there are some signs of the radiator begging to leak, burnt up coolant around hte top lid of the radiator in certain spots. maybe replace radiator?
whats everyone suggest? i just want to get some opinions before i throw more money at this replacing the fan switch/radiator or even taking it to a dealership to just let them fix whats wrong
i had the same prob w/ my 4g where it would "look" to overheat - go all the way up into the red. I would turn the car off, then back on, and it would be fine.
I ended up have a bad radiator. 1/2 the fins were pretty much toasted, and fell off the unit. It also had a bad fan relay, they weren't kickin on all the times. I do have an extra thermo fan switch if you want to give that a shot.
with the egr, could pull it off the car, and clean it w/ some carb clearner, make sure it isn't stuck..
wish i could give more advice...
__________________
XBOX Live - Doadus51
2008 WRX Hatch with a couple mods
2010 Tundra DC 5.7L with more mods
2004 S2000 with even more mods
2002 RSX-S with the most mods
i had the same prob w/ my 4g where it would "look" to overheat - go all the way up into the red. I would turn the car off, then back on, and it would be fine.
I ended up have a bad radiator. 1/2 the fins were pretty much toasted, and fell off the unit. It also had a bad fan relay, they weren't kickin on all the times. I do have an extra thermo fan switch if you want to give that a shot.
with the egr, could pull it off the car, and clean it w/ some carb clearner, make sure it isn't stuck..
wish i could give more advice...
same problem here.. already replaced the radiator.. still the same... replaced water pump / 2 thermostats / temp sender unit / cooling fan switch
your problem sounds like mine exactly...i guess im just gonna order a new radiator, thanks dude
before you order a new one, you might want to pull the fans off it, and inspect the fins...
what had happened with mine was 1/2 the fins were missing! just gone! I didn't notice because the fans were blocking it... so check there first.
i ordered mine from 1800radiator.com - free overnight shipping i think, it was like 135 bucks, and about double the thickness of stock.
__________________
XBOX Live - Doadus51
2008 WRX Hatch with a couple mods
2010 Tundra DC 5.7L with more mods
2004 S2000 with even more mods
2002 RSX-S with the most mods
same problem here.. already replaced the radiator.. still the same... replaced water pump / 2 thermostats / temp sender unit / cooling fan switch
man.. you've done about everything... there is a relay that is under the hood for the fans, i know sometimes that can get flakey and not always kick on the fans like it should. This is a seperate unit than the fans control switch that is located on the pass. side near the ecu.
__________________
XBOX Live - Doadus51
2008 WRX Hatch with a couple mods
2010 Tundra DC 5.7L with more mods
2004 S2000 with even more mods
2002 RSX-S with the most mods
You do have the sensor that goes into the upper radiator connector off the head plugged in, right?
yes, thats teh temp sensor. i even replaced it.. along with the sensor that is one the other radiator connector where the thermostat is(which was replced too along with water pump and full cooling system flush(bled the ari out too))..
odd thing is i know its not overheating, its just saying it is, the gauge will fluctuate sometiems while im driving like crazy, up-down-up-down etc... then sometiems it will be fine and stay right in the middle like normal. and after driving i can get out and touch the valve cover for a few seconds just to make sure that it isnt burning hot.... i dont know what could cause this...im gonna check the wiring coming off the temp sensor later
upon further investigation in my honda shop manual(from honda dealerships ) ive found some unreplaced sensors that i shall order from honda and replace and see if that solves my problems...
ect switch A is located on the thermostat housing
now...whos knows what ect stands for? electronic control temp? anyways if someone with an h22 engien could do me a favor and take a pic of the ect gauge sending unit on their car i would greatly appreciate it, becuase it looks like on mine it is back out of the block somewhat( i can see the threading on the bolt including white teflon tape used for gasket purposes) id like to see how far in the bolt is supposed to be before i try and tighten it.
My son recently bought a 94 with what I will call a normal engine. He is at Virginia Tech and I am here in TX so know little of the car. He had the same problem you guys are having but it did overheat and so he just put a used VTech engine in. He has new WP, New Radiator. He direct wired the fans, not sure how well or if a good idea. When he recharged the A/C the same problem as all of you are describing is happening. He has a thermo I think 170 on the way. Only diference is when he shuts it off after gauge is high, his engine will not restart until it cools. We are stumped. Hope this can be resolved.
well it diead today, driving to work and the temp gauge shot up like it usually does so i turned the car off and went to start it back up to set the gauge back to normal and it wouldnt start. just kept clicking....then some smoke came out from the steering rack....she sits at a honda dealer until monday when the guy comes to work to look at it...........
tired of troubleshooting the problems, just gonna pay to have it run correctly
OK my son's car overheated today running the air. Did not try to restart as it just usually would not.
He removed the thermostat and the condenser from A/C. Now it will not get up to middle of normal.
He is waiting on a new thermo he ordered, some safty type what ever that is.
I wanted him to put the condenser back on and run A/C to see if thermo was the problem. But instead he wants to clean out all debri and straiten fins and wash off the oil spodts. Like what is mentioned in another thread by the man who pust his car on a track for 30 min session.
Anyway at least he can get around running with no stat while he works on the condenser, etc.
Somewhere I read in here there is a ground wire harness behind the drivers side headlight that has a corosian problem. I believe this made the fans and or the instrument cluster screw up. Anyone have pics or know more about this?
Somewhere I read in here there is a ground wire harness behind the drivers side headlight that has a corosian problem. I believe this made the fans and or the instrument cluster screw up. Anyone have pics or know more about this?
i made this same thread on honda-tech.com and somebody mentioned that there car was having this 'overheating' prob and that they changed a ground wire somewhere and it solved the problem also.....dont know much more other than that
w00t, ok so my car broke down and wouldnt start, it was becuase of a ground wire, this ground wire had also been know to display faulty/wacky readings in the temp gauge. now that its fixed it starts up great and no more overheating
i still gota pepboys radiator sitting in my garage that i bought though...im still gonna put it in thoguh because my radiator is leaking SLIGHTLY around the top
i just had a timing belt job done. balancer shaft seal and crankshaft seals replaced along with oil pan gasket and oil cooler seal.
now the gauge says its overheating. i opened up the nozzle to leak out all the coolant, and replaced it with fresh coolant (50/50). its still saying its overheating. this started right after all the work was done on the car.
^^^^
I had the same thing happen to me. After I had the timing belt changed the mechanic told me the car overheated during testing so he changed the thermostat. It seemed fine for a few days, but I didn't really drive very far. When I first took a trip that lasted more than ten minutes it started overheating badly. All the sudden, I heard an audible pop, and the temp gauge shot up. I just changed out the thermostat and radiator cap and bled the system very well and that fixed the problem. Then 2 weeks later the radiator went. Sorry I can't help you with the ground wire. No clue what they are talking about.
WATER PUMP, anyone? if you did the timing belt, did you do the water pump too? also, when you added/flushed the radiators, did you all run the motor with the radiator cap off? You may already know this, but you have to let the coolant start circulating to get the air pockets out, and ensure the proper coolant level. my old Chrysler concorde had an actual bleed nipple.. it will make it overflow at first, but that's normal.
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