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Old 12-18-2002, 01:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Now that the fogs are in....

...I'm still left wondering about:

1--The OEM Honda relay is currently plugged straight into the existing wiring (that is, no subharness). Yet the fogs work. Is the subharness really necessary?

2--I can't figure out how to wire my JDM switch. Right now they're wired to come on with the headlights, but I can't switch the fogs on and off independently. I've tried opening up the switch to see if I can identify which pins do what, but the plastic that covers the circuit board won't come off without actually cutting it and disfiguring it. I took the switch to a speedshop here in town that does this kind of stuff, but even they couldn't figure it out and told me I should just get a USDM switch. Any insights?
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Old 12-18-2002, 01:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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all the sub harness does is act as a bridge, you dont need it
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Old 12-18-2002, 02:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Okay you convinced me. I will go out to my car and figure out how I wired my JDm switch.

Will reply in about 10 mins.
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Old 12-18-2002, 02:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hey,

You have a '93

Where does that put your factory wiring harness. I can figure out how to wire in the switch for the '94+ where the plug is in the center console. How many wires does the '93 plug have? I need to figure out what each of them does.

The other option is to ignore the factory plug completely and wire the relay directly off the switch. I will post how this is to be done.
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Old 12-18-2002, 03:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Okay,

Here is how I figured it:

first the switch, when veiwed from the back (the 5 pin is on the other side):

1 2 3 4
- - - -
5
-

Pins 1 and 4 go to 12V positive when parking lights come on (you can pick this up off the fusebox on the drivers side)

Pins 2 and 5 go to good ground (bare metal)

Pin 3 goes to the relay under the steering column.

Take the wire from pin 3 on the switch and replace one of the Red/Yel wire terminals in the factory plug with it.

Pull the other Red/Yel wire out of the factory harness and replace it with a wire going to a good ground.

Now you should have a switch that lights up when the parking lights are on and, when pressed, will turn on the fog lights.

The added benifit is that the fogs can be turned on when only the parking lights are on and will not turn off when the high beams are on.

Good luck and e-mail if you need furthur help.
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Old 12-18-2002, 06:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Zimmlude, you're friggin' awesome; although, for the record, I wasn't intentionally getting you specifically to go out and tear your console apart... but thanks, though, I appreciate it.

The 92-93 connector is actually behind the driver's side tweeter and has 6 wires. The diagram is in the Prelude Repair Manual in the 4th Gen FAQ.

I'm gonna give this a shot later, thanks!
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Old 12-18-2002, 06:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Well who else was going to do it!

I'm just kidding, I am happy to help.

Looking at that diagram I would just do it the way I suggested. It would be easier than running all those wires from behind the tweeter to the center console. It's up to you and if you would like I can try and tell you what to splice to make this work.

I didn't know the old style fog switch was illuminated, you lucky bastids!!

Later
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Old 12-18-2002, 07:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quick q:
Take the wire from pin 3 on the switch and replace one of the Red/Yel wire terminals in the factory plug with it.

Pull the other Red/Yel wire out of the factory harness and replace it with a wire going to a good ground.


When you talk about the Red/Yel wires, you mean both wires that are attached to the relay, right?
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Old 12-18-2002, 07:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yeah,

There will be three red with yellow stripe wires going into the relay harness. Two of them will go into the same terminal on the relay though. The Red/yel wires control the coil on the relay. The relay will fire when there is current through the coil. The wiring method I described does this by feeding the power into the switch to the relay and then to ground, thereby causing the relay to fire. You are basically replacing the trigger circuit.

HTH
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Old 12-19-2002, 05:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Works like a charm. Thanks, Zimmlude!!! And, while I'm at it, go pre, since he took the time to answer all my previous questions.
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Old 12-19-2002, 10:11 PM   #11 (permalink)
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anyone mind takin pics of all this stuff? Where are the locations of all the places where these wires need to be switched around, u mentioned 2 of them. While we are at it, my fogs are screwed in with hex screws with a cylindric little knob where the screwdriver bit goes in. So i cant use a standard hex bit to take it out because that little knob prevents me from getting the bit in all the way to tourqe the screw. So i really need to remove those? There are also regular screws that use a phillips screw driver.....do i need to remove those? PLus the are rusted in....what should i use on em WD-40? Its really pissign me off cause I've had a fog light out for about 2 or 3 months now and i wanna replace em with amber bulbs. Any and all help would be greatly appritiated.
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Old 12-19-2002, 10:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I am actually going to Mexico for Christmas, when I come back I'll take pics of what you need; maybe even do a write-up or something like that.

I know there exist screwdrivers that are that same shape with the little cylinder in the middle. I haven't looked at the FAQ page, but I know there are some instructions on how to remove those screws to get at the bulbs. And yeah, I'd spray some WD-40 on them to loosen the screws.
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