so today i was driving the the book store, and when i shifted into 3rd it didnt grind. i was like woah, that was weird. 3 seconds later it popped out. now my car wont stay in 3rd gear for more then a few seconds without popping out, and it has went into 3rd a few times, and i can feel it "click" or whatever into gear, but then it will just spin, like 3rd was another neutral. is my tranny gone? can this be fixed for cheap, or am i looking at having to spend some money
seeing as though the actual gear spindles don't have to be rebuilt (unless it normally grinds, then it would be a synchro problem on top of that), the shift forks are relatively easy to replace. but it just takes time.
thank god, i know i will have to do a lot with the wiring harness, where can i find a good picture/diagram where i can figure out how to modify mine/get another one to fit into my car?
onto a different subject, but dont want to keep making new threads. suspention wise..... whats the difference between just buying shocks and springs and a coilover kit? is it just the asjustability?
so what would be a good coilover setup? do i get the full thing or get shocks then a coilover kit? i was thinking koni yellows with skunk2 coilovers, but i dont even know if that would work.... can you help me out a little?
for the amount of road racing you plan on doing, i would get either the tokico illumina (includes springs and shocks), KYB AGX or Koni yellow shocks with H&R sport springs or Tein S-tec springs.
if you wanted to spend more money on a full coilover system, i'd go with the tanabe sustec pro, JIC FL-TA2, Tein SS or Flex...
yea, i was wanting the suspention to serve 2 purposes. i want it to be able to handle being tracked, but more importantly i want it to be able to put to the ground however much power i throw at it. i would like to have a boosted h22 by the end of summer, because i will make enough money over the summer to build and boost the motor. would i need to get the full coilover system to lay down ~300whp?
no, a good spring/shock combo will hold up just fine. but i'd think twice about boosting it. while it can be done, a non-vtec engine is better for boost.
yea, but i would like to make close to that mount of horsepower, and it would be much harder to get there n/a, im defenitally not trying to make more then that, but i think that is a good amount for a daily driver... i am going to see what all i can do n/a first, and see if im happy with it or not with some basic stuff and a tune. i have to get the swap done first tho, which is what im looking for now. i cant really find anything for sure about a swap out of a prelude s, all i can find are si swaps... is it the same??
yes, the swap is the same... the S model just doesn't have ABS.
and you really need to make up your mind about going turbo or not. NA build will require high compression pistons, while turbo will need low comp pistons. so, instead of building the engine twice, you need to make up your mind before you start modding the engine. check out the FI forum and see what those people are putting down, as well as how much money they spent to get that amount of power...
thanks, i cant really find much info on either plan i have, N/A or turbo, so im going to spend some time on honda-tech to try and find it. one more question. what is obd1 and obd2 and whats the differnace?
would a k20 work in a lude? ive never seen that done before either........
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