Just purchased a 95 SE with 81,000 miles on it. Have a few issues and was wondering if someone might be able to direct me or confirm my thoughts. First I do all my own work, so I am able to fix almost anything on the car. So, I am not so good with diagnosis - I currently have a "chirp" sound coming from the driver's rear brake (disc). Not sure what it could be, had something similar in a 86 B2000 pickup and it was a spacer issue - any ideas on what it might be for the Prelude? Also, the guy I bought it from had just put brakes in all around, they feel a bit spongy and sometimes at a stoplight I lose the pdal (goes to the floor), I can get it back with a little pumping of the brake. Could this be that the brakes were not bled properly? or is it a sign that my master cylinder is about to go.
Other than those issues thios is a great car. I lost my 2001 Celica to an accident and got this car. In some way it was a blessing, i always wanted a Prelude.
I would try bleeding the brakes just to be sure you dont want to hit a pocket of air when you really need the brakes. Find out where the previous owner got the brakes replaced at and have them take a look at it if they are new they shouldnt be making any noise unless they were re-installed wrong.
A '95 with 81,000 miles, sounds like a good find. I can't help with the brake problem, but I thought I'd let you know you should definitely do the 90k (Timing Belt, Water Pump, etc.) major tune up on it, especially given the car's age. Once you do that the car will be good for a very long time.
A '95 with 81,000 miles, sounds like a good find. I can't help with the brake problem, but I thought I'd let you know you should definitely do the 90k (Timing Belt, Water Pump, etc.) major tune up on it, especially given the car's age. Once you do that the car will be good for a very long time.
Chad, what else is considered - etc. The other belts, which I usually have changed when I do a timing belt, but is there anything else?
I don't think I had Honda do the fuel filter, even though it's on the list.
Also, when you have the valve cover off to do this job it's probably a good idea to do a valve adjustment, unless your car sounds really good and doesn't have any ticking. Pretty much all the information you're looking for is in those two threads so I hope you enjoy.
Btw, you might want to check out the FAQ for the 4th gens because I think they have a write-up on the Timing Belt/Water Pump install.
The guy I bought it from had a brother who was a BMW cerified mechanic, and I was told the valves have already been adjusted, the belt was not done at that time because it "looked good", but I think I will get in done anyway. The car sounds just like new and the guy kept it spotless. Only other issue I have with it is a bit of rot where the rear wheel well sheet metal meets the bumper.
That rust is typical in our cars I would take care of it as soon as you have the means honda rust is hard to stop. Have them double check the valves so that you can be sure since they will already have the valve cover off.
The guy I bought it from had a brother who was a BMW cerified mechanic, and I was told the valves have already been adjusted, the belt was not done at that time because it "looked good", but I think I will get in done anyway. The car sounds just like new and the guy kept it spotless. Only other issue I have with it is a bit of rot where the rear wheel well sheet metal meets the bumper.
I would take the BMW certified mechanic with a grain of salt. First off, you can't really tell a timing belt is good by just looking at it. That isn't how it works unless there is something vastly wrong with it.
__________________
"I am a ricer because I have Z3 fenders"
I would take the BMW certified mechanic with a grain of salt. First off, you can't really tell a timing belt is good by just looking at it. That isn't how it works unless there is something vastly wrong with it.
Yeah, it doesn't really matter what some mechanic says (even if he's good) when it comes to the timing belt. If that thing breaks because it wasn't changed at 90k you're going to be shooting yourself in the foot. However, if the valves sound fine then yeah, I would take his word on that.
Brake MC is probably going. It's common on our cars. A quick way to tell is to look at where the clutch pedal goes through the firewall (inside the car). If you see any fluid there then the MC is toast.
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.