Need advice for changing my rotors and brake fluid
Hey guys, I need a little advice from those of you who have changed their rotors and brake fluid. I'm going to be installing my Brembos (front) and Bradi (rears) within the next month and I just want to make sure I have everything I need for a clean and smooth install.
I just want to know the steps I should expect to take and exactly what tools I need.
* I will get an impact scredriver set
* How much new brake fluid will I need
Any other tips you may have is greatly appreciated.
The install is pretty easy. If you want to drain and change all your fluid you will have to bleed the brake lines when you put in the new fluid. A simple c clamp is needed to push the caliper piston back in to fit the new beefy bads and you also need some srews to go into the 2 rotor holes that are empty. When you twist these in they push the rotor off the hub.
Well, as far as clean installs go, there's not too much stuff you need.
The caliper bolts are 14mm I think, and the pad holder bolts are 17mm, but don't quote me on that. I'm curious as to why you mentioned a impact scredriver set... I don't really think that's necessary, if you're referring to the screws that hold the rotor to the hub. I just use a socket wrench with a screwdriver adaptor on it, which seems to work fine.
Couple other things to make sure of--one especially. The slider pins for the caliper, make sure you lubricate those well. I took my calipers apart last time I changed my front pads, and cleaned up the floater pins, and the hole they slide in. It was really gunky with rust and stuff in there. I used a rust penetrant (I don't remember the name of it, but you could use some thrust, made by castle), and I used shop solve (also from castle) to rinse it out.
Also make sure to put a little bit of lube on the back of the pad, just in a little circle where the piston contacts it (to keep it quiet), and also on the side "tabs" of the pads, where they slide in the pad holder.
Oh, one more thing. The backets that are between the padholder, and the pads... make sure those are free of rust and gunk as well, otherwise they'll be noisy.
As far as how much brake fluid you'll need to completely replace it all, I can't tell you, as I can't get my bleeder valves open on my calipers, so I haven't flushed mine out yet.
When you finish everything, make sure you pump the brakes before you even start the car, to get the pistons back out of the calipers. Start the car, pump the brakes again, you'll know when it's good.
Thats about all I can really think of for now. If you (or anyone else) has any other q's, post em up. I know I don't post here often anymore, but that's because I only chime in for tech stuff (and the occasional opinion). But I'm always checkin the board.
Erik, I was told an impact screwdriver would make it easy to remove the screws on hub. Some people have told me that they have stripped the screws trying to use a conventional screwdriver.
I'm not going to be replacing my pads because they are fairly new. Do I still have to go through all the steps you mentioned?
Do you happen to know where the section on replacing your rotors is in the Helms? I can only find inspection of the rotors and pad replacement. Maybe it isn't even covered in there. The Helms really needs a good index.
Originally posted by Mark94 Thanks for the advice guys.
Erik, I was told an impact screwdriver would make it easy to remove the screws on hub. Some people have told me that they have stripped the screws trying to use a conventional screwdriver.
I'm not going to be replacing my pads because they are fairly new. Do I still have to go through all the steps you mentioned?
Do you happen to know where the section on replacing your rotors is in the Helms? I can only find inspection of the rotors and pad replacement. Maybe it isn't even covered in there. The Helms really needs a good index.
Thanks again!
Mark
Mark -- As far as the screwdriver thing... I just use the correct screwdriver, and it never strips. That's the key. You just need one that fits right, but I also have few more tools than the average person (*cough*mechanic*cough*).
Even though you're not replacing pads, it's not a bad idea to make sure everything is lubed up; especially those caliper pins.
Helms.. hm.. I haven't looked at mine for brakes yet. I just do them. If you have any other questions.. lemme know
Originally posted by Mark94 Thanks again for the info Erik.
My pops was a mechanic so he has quite a collection of tools as well.
I appreciate the help.
Mark
Nice nice. I'm thinking the SnapOn dude should just make house calls... I mean, he only lives a mile from me anyway... wonder if he keeps that truck at his house .
I agree about the housecalls. My father's collection is all Snap-on tools so I'm sure he and I will be able to get the job done. I just wish he had more experience with imports.
If you are not changing your calipers you should loosen the bleeder valve before compressing your caliper pistons this would let the fluid coming from you calipers escape. I heard that it might mess up your ABS if you don't. Myth or fact I do not know but it couldn't hurt. If your rear calipers have a cross on them they thread in so you can compress them all you wnat and they will not go in.
To get the rotors off I used a c-clamp on the rotor and a flat bar on the wheel studs and that popped the rotors off. The rear ones were the worst.
I just did the VTEC up grade last week end. It was about 5 hours. And that included paint time on the rears.
Originally posted by Armadillo If you are not changing your calipers you should loosen the bleeder valve before compressing your caliper pistons this would let the fluid coming from you calipers escape. I heard that it might mess up your ABS if you don't. Myth or fact I do not know but it couldn't hurt. If your rear calipers have a cross on them they thread in so you can compress them all you wnat and they will not go in.
To get the rotors off I used a c-clamp on the rotor and a flat bar on the wheel studs and that popped the rotors off. The rear ones were the worst.
I just did the VTEC up grade last week end. It was about 5 hours. And that included paint time on the rears.
That's a fact about ABS. The potential problem here, is pushing dirty/contaminated brake fluid back through the ABS actuator, potentially harming it. I've never personally seen one go bad, but I know that they [actuator] wont go bad from anything else (unless you start taking a hammer and punch to it), so it's definately a good idea to bleed the fluid that resides behind the piston... if you can get your bleeder screw open.
As far as getting rotors off... I used a 1lb mallet, can of thrust, and some force. Spray thrust (of any other rust penetrant) around the rust ring on the hub, let it sit for a few minutes, nail the back of the rotor with the mallet repeatedly. It works well.
Originally posted by Armadillo To get the rotors off I used a c-clamp on the rotor and a flat bar on the wheel studs and that popped the rotors off. The rear ones were the worst.
you guys, that's what the extra threaded bolt holes in the rotor are for.. just thread some bolts in and the rotors will pop right off!
I would suggest getting a 'mity-vac' vaccuum pump (do a search on Google), it makes changing your brake fluid incredibly easy! I change fluid every 6 months or so.
Charlie, please let me know when that write-up becomes available. It would be nice to have the write-up to go along with your pics because the pics were a little out of order.
Originally posted by kevie88 I would suggest getting a 'mity-vac' vaccuum pump (do a search on Google)
I searched for this, one of the first things that came up: "Adult sex toy" How much did you buy that pump for? I found a similar one at pepboys/sears, but they were about $50.
Mark, get the impact screw driver. You will not regret spending the $25 on the tool. I did my rear rotors without it. I had a wide variety of regular screw drivers to choose from, still manage to kinda stip the screw. It takes alot of strengh to twist the rusted screw off. Took about 1 hour just trying to take the screws off.
Now when I did the front with the impact driver. Took about 5 mins total to take off all 4 front screws. Get the tool.
I worked in motorcycle dealerships for the last 10 years and got one from one of the suppliers for cheap. I think you can get them in just about all good parts stores.
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I agree about the housecalls. My father's collection is all Snap-on tools so I'm sure he and I will be able to get the job done. I just wish he had more experience with imports.
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