Hello. I figured there would be alot of people out there who want to do the H22 swap, but have never really had much motor expierience... Well, that is the category I fall into! So i am starting this write up / journal on my swap. I will add onto it as the days go on.
So far, im on day #3, so i will use the best of my knowledge to recall what i've done.
ps. No pics. I took pics, but my camera sucks, they all came out bad. Sorry.
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Rule #1, and most obvious: GET A HELMS MANUAL!
www.helminc.com Or try ebay, i got mine used for $25 shipped. If you are a newbie swapper, this is a MUST!!!
Rule #2 Buy a can of PB blaster (helps remove rusty bolts, if u didnt know). Also, get some workers gloves, and all that good stuff.
Rule #3 Drain your oil/antifreeze
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Ok, day one:
-I started by removing the baterry, and battery housing. Very simple.
-Then of course, the intake, also very simple.
-Next, remove your fuel line from the fuel rail-- NEWBIES, dont be scared! This part kinda worried me too, but its ok, just release the pressure slowly, you will smell vapors, but no gas, trust me.
-Next, remove your throttle cable. Just pull the throttle back, and jiggle the line out, be sure NOT TO BEND IT! also, very easy
-Now unplug the plug that goes into your ignition thing on the drivers side corner. It kinda looks like a heat shield found on a motherboard of a computer. Make sure you label it.
Heres where you need some patience...
-Start removing plugs from your engine wiring harness. Basically, any plug that you see leading into the main engine harness, needs to be unplugged. -- This gets to be kind of a pain in the arse, because each connection is connected to a metal bracket, which, depending on how corroded they are, they are a pain to get off. Try carefully prying them with a flat head.
-----MAKE SURE YOU LABEL ALL YOUR PLUGS! I labeled each end with numbers. Example: If i unplugged a male from a female, i labeled each one, "1", and then "2", etc. This helps to match up your H22 harness later on. (many tech heads may think thats dumb, but its easier that way for me!)
End of day 1
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Day #2 ..this is the day i actually got my car into the garage!
This is the day you might need to use the PB blaster
-Remove the plugs/bolts from the cruise control. But do not remove the hoses. Once off, just put it off to the side.
-Remove power steering pump. Pretty easy also. Same as above. Put it to the side
-Remove alternator. This is also easy, and can be taken out completely.
-Remove AC compressor. ---THIS is where i had problems... there are 4 bolts.. The bottem left one was hung up, REFUSED to come out. 2 days later i ended up gringing it off.
time out: If you run into ANY bolts that may need grinded off, and have an air compressor, just use a small grinding wheel, wear goggles (from sparks and metal shavings). If you dont feel comfortable, call a friend who knows what they're doing.
Once all of those are out, you will have more room to work with.
-Next, remove your radiator hoses. There will be a lower one, and a high one. Easy to find
-The helms says to take the AC fan out, and put a protector plate on. I find it alot easier to just remove the entire radiator, then you have more room, and don't need to worry about damaging it.
-Next, remove the heater hose from the passenger side of the motor.
-Now, the shift linkage stuff. This is located just undernieth the wiring harness. If you're a newbie, the diagram for this in the helms looks scary, but dont worry, thats why i am here! IIf u have trouble finding this stuff, lay your helms on your valve cover, facing the passenger side fender, and lean over the passenger side. This angle is how the helms pictures the linkage. Now, remove the bolts and cotter pins/washers, and get the linkage off to the side. Be sure NOT TO BEND any of them! Try to get the linkage pushed to side gently.
-Now, theres a funky lookin power stearing line to take out. It bolts to the passenger side of the block, and runs to the front of the block. Unbolt it completely, and just take it out of the engine bay.
-Next, unbolt your header from your downpipe. I found this to be easier by using socket extensions, and getting under the car. This is also where PB blaster may be handy. My bolts were REAL stubborn! Yours may be easier, or harder than mine.
END of day 2 and 3
--this is as far as i've gotten so far. It's been a process thats for sure... but nothing terrible hard. Just some frustrations with rusty bolts.
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. But he did NOT have to use a ball joint remover (like the helms says to use). 
Linear Mode
