The cam gears' arrows should be pointing up, and the notches should face each other. The dot on the lower timing pulley should match up with the pointer on the block. Make sure that is still good then just tweak the crank a little bit with a rag and a large pair of plyers and the key will go in. Do it without the crank pulley on. Get the key in then put the crank pulley on, it'll be easier that way.
As long as your cam gears are still together than you are fine. If they were pointed opposite each other then you would be hurting. As far as getting the key in, do as Jeremy said and take off the cranck pully on there. Everything needs to be absolutly perfect for your car to run smoothly. When you are doing this don't worry so much about wheather the balancer belt is right one it can move a little and won't hurt anything (or use the maitenaince hole). I didn't use it that is why I am telling you.
The key should look like a "Stim-u-dent" tooth pick where one side has a taper to it. That taper faces down to match the taper in the notch on the crank, so try flipping the key over.
Yes they do. The front one is very easy because you can see the mark on the shaft and the arrow on the casing very easily. the rear is not so easy. There is a V cut into the inner lip (closer to the block) of the pulley that you line up with an arrow on the block. Sounds easy but you cannot see this unless your motor is REALLLY sagging. I had to use a mirror tool to see it to make sure. When this is aligned, the little dimple on the rear gear will face at about 4 o'clock. Screw that "alignment hole" in the back.
yeah without that alignment tool things get kinda tricky as the pullies move quite easily. I did it without the screwing it in the first time, bad mistake. It takes a lot longer.
just so you know, your timing can slip even if your cams are matching, your crank and the gear that holds the timing belt can misalign, happened to me, also some people overlook that theres a beveled end of the key..just future info..later
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