more euro-r swap problems... - Honda Prelude Forum

rentien · 05-16-2004, 01:02 PM

here are my problems so far, if anyone knows the solution, please tell me...

1. when the car turns off or is started, the engine rocks, and the greddy header i have will rock into hitting the front of the car, the frame, and make an annoying knocking noise, anyone else have this problem? how do i solve it? cushion it with something? what? whats soft yet can take touching a super hot header without melting?

2. when i first got the engine in the car, and the car back and ready to drive, the idle was at 1500, i was like is that the infamour idleing JDM h22a problem? by the time i was done test driving the idle would not go under 3000, i went back to the shop, and they said it was purely throttle cable related, since it's run around the top of the IM, and thats why when i left up on the gas pedal with my foot, the idle would go down to the perfect 800 mark, or at least go lower to like 1100, anyways last night i wanted to go out to del taco, and this time the car would just die on the start up becuase the idle was too low, after i reved to keep it from dying and it warmed up a little everything was fine...

3. o yes and my cel-12, EGR valve lift sensor, i am not sure this is because of my IM being a EURO-r, but with the check engine light on, i can't vtec, i still haven't felt the powre of vtec from my euro-r because of this... so if anyone knows about the euro-r IM, or about whether or not the EGR sensor is needed, or why it's not needed explanations would be welcome...

anyways after i get my intake, and exhaust (they're already on their way) i'm gonna get it chipped p28... and dynoed, i'll be soon to posting up dynos of my euro-r and you guys can see whether or not if was worth it or not for sure now... if the gains are not worth it, or if they are like wow

i think most of you will think the gains are not worth it but whatever thats is all for now...

4thGenReady2Go · 05-16-2004, 03:56 PM

first off, it's cool that someone is actually doing this, instead of a bunch of us speculating. I look forward to seeing the numbers, and still don't agree with the whole "why buy a type-s/euro-r when you can just install the aforementioned internals in a standard JDM H22" argument, because with the price of the pistons and cams alone, along with the LSD transmission, it makes more sense to just get the entire engine package, of course the OBD issue is different, but if you have a 96, why not?

Number 1 sounds screwy, could #2 have anything to do with the IAC? The fact that it is fine after warming up makes me think so. I dunno about the rest, I'm just an amateur lol, keep us posted, and bump for help.

TrustJDM · 05-16-2004, 04:47 PM

my buddy had to use a metal cutting tool to chip away at the frame a bit because my greddy header was tapping the frame. it would make an annoying metal hitting noise. the clearance was fine when the car was cool, but when you're revving or the headers warm up the piping got too close. you may want to see if you need new motor mounts to control the movements. mine were bad too and i think that contributed as well.

4thGenReady2Go · 05-16-2004, 07:27 PM

yeah, good suggestion, if it is in fact the motor mounts (did you use the ones that came with the engine?), go ahead and buy a set of ES or similar polyurethane mounts, from what I've heard from people, it's probably one of the best upgrades you can make for your money.

Also, would thermal wrap work for insulating the header, or does Greddy (like a few other companies) void the warranty if any kind of wrap is used?

nuro · 05-16-2004, 08:46 PM

YGPM

jtcdudeman · 05-16-2004, 09:14 PM

now thats cool.. I cant wait to see whats going on here.. About the cel.. you need to find out the voltage reading nessecary and hook up a resistor to trick it I guess.. Sounds easy enough to me.. Other than that, Im not sure... Mine comes on and off... And im just a h22a.. too poor for the euro R swap...

rentien · 05-16-2004, 11:14 PM

i heard somewhere that if the EGR sensor is broken, that the engine will put more fuel into the engine... does anyone know if this is true because for now, that is actually good beacuse the maps on the h22a1 ecu will actually make the euro-r run lean, but later on, that will become and issue, and my cousin said he saw black smoke coming out of the muffler everytime i shifted...

4thGenReady2Go · 05-17-2004, 12:36 AM

the egr thing makes sense, at least to me ... if uncombusted fuel isn't detected (ie the sensor is bust), compensation is made by adding more fuel into the mix ... someone smarter wanna prove me right/wrong?

4bidden · 05-17-2004, 12:57 AM

You dont have anything to prove with me. If I did it over, I'd go Euro-R right off the bat.

rentien · 05-17-2004, 04:08 AM

does anyone know about adjusting the idle without the screw on the TB, but just adjusting the throttle cable and the little c shaped thing it loops onto? that is the only thing controlling my idle right now... and uh before it idled at 3000, and i took it back to the shop to get the cable adjusted, now if i don't gas it, it'll die cause the idle is too low, so i need to either adjust it myself or go back to the shop...

4thGenReady2Go · 05-17-2004, 08:25 AM

if it's the same as other some other hondas I've worked on, there should be a clamp of retention "thingy" closer to the throttle body on the cable itself, with a screw or a 10mm bolt (I think), which, when you loosen or tighten, either increases or lowers the idle ... worth a check.

rentien · 05-17-2004, 01:33 PM

yea i checked... on the euro-r throttle body, there is no screw

4thGenReady2Go · 05-17-2004, 04:22 PM

right, not on the throttle body itself, I meant like actually on the throttle cable, the bracket might be mounted on the intake manifold somewhere, or not at all, but what about directly on the cable before it reaches the TB?

rentien · 05-17-2004, 10:56 PM

does anyone with a euro-r Manifold have any problems with the idling? the throttle body does not have that little screw you screw to adjust the idle..., unless 4thgen's talking about something i dont' know about... i need to take another look but i have amidterm tomorrow...

i was told the euro-r's idling was adjusted by it's ecu, too bad that was OBD II and my car is OBD I, so the idling for me can only be adjusted by the throttle cable, and the little loopity thing it loops onto with a spring on it... i hope this is clear enough for anyone with a euro-r intake manifold to understand...

rentien · 05-21-2004, 06:05 PM

i found out that bastards didn't wire up my IAC valve on my euro-r... little bastards and they call this paying for a swap? lazy ****s... it's ok i'm gonna still get someone else to do it for me now and it shoudl be fine

Satan_SRV · 05-23-2004, 04:01 PM

You need to get a prelude H22a TB so you can adjust the idle.

If when you start the car or rev the motor your header is knockin the frame your front or rear engine mount is damaged and should be replaced...get energy suspension motor mount inserts as well

rentien · 05-23-2004, 04:06 PM

i found out that they did not put the front engine mount on as well... i'm not gonna talk too much **** yet... until i get all my parts back because i know they watch the forums... once i get all my stuff i'm gonna change everyone's opinion about this "great" shop, they also told me my p/s pump was broken, it's not, and it's too late cause the pump is already on the way

4thGenReady2Go · 05-23-2004, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Satan_SRV
You need to get a prelude H22a TB so you can adjust the idle...

is the H22a TB the same size as the Euro-R TB?

prelude styl · 05-24-2004, 01:38 AM

No... but H22 TB's are exactly the same as H23 TB's... JDM or not.. all the same.

4thGenReady2Go · 05-24-2004, 12:23 PM

but is the Euro-R H22 TB the same size as the standard JDM H22a TB? I thought the Euro-R had an over-bored intake manifold in comparison to a standard JDM H22a, so I figured the TB might be larger in diameter too. Sorry rentien, back on topic ...