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Old 09-24-2004, 11:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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LS/VTEC vs. H23VTEC

I know both are like frankensteins....but which is more powerful....The LS/Vtec frankenstein on the integra, or H23VTEC on the 4TH GENS....I know alot of people doing 14's stock with the LS/VTEC...dont really know anything about H23VTEC times...anyone of you guys know...who would win, and the power th the wheels on both of those.....
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Old 09-24-2004, 02:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Personally i think the H23VTEC would win.
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Old 10-02-2004, 02:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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My 4th gen w/ a H23 VTEC, built using only OEM parts internal-wise, and a few bolt ons is a 14 second car.

I would say in stockish form, the H23 VTEC Prelude will win.
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Old 10-02-2004, 06:49 PM   #4 (permalink)
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search for the dyno graphs of the h23vtec, they easily put down 180 hp, and getting an lsvtec to put down that hp takes alot more work.

Rich
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Old 10-03-2004, 05:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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i thought many people decided the h23vtec was unreliable? or is there a few diff. ways to go about doing it?

i was tlaking to a friend of mine last night and hes convinced throwing a h22 head on my h23 will work fine.
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Old 10-03-2004, 09:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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All I got to say is do your research. This is what i have to say about the h23vtec. The h23 and h22 blocks are identicle. same casting everything except for the stamp on the block. The h22 came with oil squirters in the block for lubrication purpose or cooling reasons or both. The h23 didnt come with those. You can throw an h23 head on an h22 block or h22 head on an h23 block. You have to change a few things to do that, such has inner crank gear and water inlet tube for the waterpump, but they both can use the others head interchangeably. the thing is when people build an h23vtec they want to rev it like its an h22, and that cannot be done due to some obvious reason. It has a longer stroke, and has less lubrication/cooling becuase it dosnt have oil squirters. so if you rev it like its an h23 then it will be fine, and just as realable as an h22 you just cant rev as high. i dont know how else to prove my point

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Old 10-03-2004, 09:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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what if you put oil squiters on the h23 part?
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Old 10-03-2004, 11:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arizona Steve
what if you put oil squiters on the h23 part?

that would be just like putting h23 crank, rods, and pistons into an h22 block. People run into problems with spun rod bearings because they rev the hell out of it. and since its like a stroker you cant rev it as high. Just think of it has a stroked v8. Most of those motors are not made to rev past 6,000 rpm, if that far.

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Old 10-04-2004, 08:43 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I disagree. The stroke is not that much bigger than the H22 crank, and the r/s ratio is hardly any worse also.

I rev mine like an H22. I have this thought: the H22 was overdesigned from the factory, like most Honda motors. It can rev well over 8k (actual, not on the tach) reliably. The H23 has a 6500 fuel cut; when an H23 VTEC is built RIGHT, then the motor is actually much better than from the factory (as far as balancing, you setting your own clearances, etc). It will be able to rev a bit higher with no trouble at all.

People will argue to no end, and there's a plausible argument for each side, but I'll keep ya'll updated on how my motor lasts over the miles
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Old 10-04-2004, 09:23 AM   #10 (permalink)
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If you do a search on a thread that me and satan_srv and a couple others did, there is so much info in it. We have all done this frank with little to no problems. And all of us made very nice #'s. The thread is like 4-6 pages if I remember right.
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Old 10-04-2004, 06:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ludeykrus
I disagree. The stroke is not that much bigger than the H22 crank, and the r/s ratio is hardly any worse also.

I rev mine like an H22. I have this thought: the H22 was overdesigned from the factory, like most Honda motors. It can rev well over 8k (actual, not on the tach) reliably. The H23 has a 6500 fuel cut; when an H23 VTEC is built RIGHT, then the motor is actually much better than from the factory (as far as balancing, you setting your own clearances, etc). It will be able to rev a bit higher with no trouble at all.

People will argue to no end, and there's a plausible argument for each side, but I'll keep ya'll updated on how my motor lasts over the miles

I agree with you fully! If you take the crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, and crank pully and have it blanced, then you torque everything perfectly. I beleive that would rev just as well as, if not better than a stock h22. How long have you been running yours, and how do you drive it daily?

Rich
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Old 10-04-2004, 07:02 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I've got just over 6k on it right now, IIRC. It runs like a champ. I drive it normally about 2/3 the time, and the rest of the time I'm romping on the pedal. Usually I will make a 1-2-3 gear run to fuelcut getting on highway onramps, so I don't exactly take it easy on it.

Right now, the only thing really holding me back w/ this motor is the fact that I have a crappy header that has a downpipe that is crushed in half.....and I have some idle problem when the car is warming up, but I'm hoping that redoing my vacuum lines w/ silicone lines will solve that problem.

As soon as I can at least get the downpipe pulled back straight, I will get a baseline dyno and a tuned dyno and let everyone see how it performs.
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Old 10-05-2004, 08:49 AM   #13 (permalink)
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What do you need beyond the head to do the swap?

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Old 10-05-2004, 01:11 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Ludeykrus. Did you have your bottem end balanced? or did you just pull the orfice seal between the number 2 and 3 cycl and slap the head on? and put everythign together and go drive?

Rich
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Old 10-09-2004, 02:41 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by preludestud11
Ludeykrus. Did you have your bottem end balanced? or did you just pull the orfice seal between the number 2 and 3 cycl and slap the head on? and put everythign together and go drive?

Rich
Haha, oh no, I built it right and took my time. I had the entire rotating assembly speed-balanced at a good local machine shop, and had the crank's journals micropolished.

The way I built the motor was by taking a high-mileage H22 longblock, stripping down everything and replacing it with either new parts, or the new H23 parts to make it the frankenstein motor.

Here's my post w/ pics of the entire build process:

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=896304&page=3
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