I have heard that it *may* be necessary to add additional length to some wires on the JDM H22 harness so that they can connect with the S model in-car harness. Does anyone recall WHAT wires needed to be lengthened? My hope is that if we can peg it down, it can go in the FAQ. I figure it would be a lot easier to lengthen the wires BEFORE dropping the engine in. I found a write-up about doing the swap into an f22 equipped 1995 accord ((here), which states the following:
"* Sensors to lengthen:
(NOTE: Consult the helms for the location of sensors, and color code of the wires on your harness.)Colors below are for the Accord LX harness.
IAT (GRN/BLU-RED/YEL): Too short, needs to reach drivers side of intake manifold.
MAP (YEL/WHT-GRN/WHT-WHT/YEL): Too short, needs to reach wherever on the firewall you mount the MAP sensor.
EGR Lift solenoid (GRN/BLU-WHT/BLK-YEL/BLU): Too short, needs to reach passengers side of intake manifold.
H02s (GRN/BLU-WHT/RED-ORN/BLK-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to be run to O2 sensor, near oil filter.
IAC valve (BLK/BLU-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to reach top of intake runners, in the middle.
ECT switch A: This will need to be extended to the thermostat housing on the passengers side of the back of the head. The ECT sensor and ECT sending unit fit fine (under the distributor.)
*NOTE: There is no ECT switch B on the JDM H22, just spare back the connector.
Alternator: The power wire on the alternator needs to be lengthened about 2". We just cut the one off the Prelude harness, and attached it to the Accord harot;. ness with a large enough splice.
*NOTE: SWITCH WIRES A6 (EGR solenoid) and A11 (H02S heater) at the ECU
When you think you have everything wired up correctly, plug in the brick and turn the key. Have a multimeter ready to troublshoot if you throw codes. Remember, some of the sensors may be bad so don't run yourself into a wall thinking you wired wrong. (Although you may have.)"
BTW, the color codes and pin locations for the additional VTEC sol/IAB/knock sensor, etc from the link above match exactly with the thread we made in the FAQ. . .just reassuring.
that sounds good to me, all those. I would start connecting all the sensors and whatever does not reach just extend it. Thats what i did. The first time i put the motor in i got most of the connectors in without extending them. I had to do a few tho. It was a tight fit. The second time i just went ahead and extended the ones that wouldnt fit. No biggie. Took me maby 1 hour.
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AIM:ISUBIEXI
S/SI/Vtec Hybrid. RS*R Header, JDM downpipe, Custom Downpipe back 2.25 Exhaust, Intake, ""Mugen"" Programmed p13, No balancer belt, no AC, Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, SI trans, Power Slot rotors, SkunkII Coilovers, Enki Rims.
nope, the jdm harness needs to have a bunch of wires ext ended. Stick with the USDM harness and just add the wires to the harness, extend whatever does not reach, and rewrap everything with electrical tape.
__________________
AIM:ISUBIEXI
S/SI/Vtec Hybrid. RS*R Header, JDM downpipe, Custom Downpipe back 2.25 Exhaust, Intake, ""Mugen"" Programmed p13, No balancer belt, no AC, Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, SI trans, Power Slot rotors, SkunkII Coilovers, Enki Rims.
I have a '92 s(obd1)...and i bought a h22a1 from a '96 lude(obd2) i have the motor pulled but am stuck on how to wire this up. How can i wire my h22 using my obd1 wiring. Should I get a different ECU from a Obd1 h22? will that work?.....i really dont know what to do...what are my options?...I know that wiring the motor up with my f22 ecu is useless..no vtec..different fuel maps...a idea i had was to get a VFAC and control vtec and fuel curves that way...but then what to do about the f22 fuel cut off?? ...IM LOST....any advice will be greatly appreaciated.
Ok first of all, the wiring between obd1 and obd2 is slightly different. You have 2 choices. Most likely the best choice is to go with a OBD1 ecu and obd1 distributor. Then you will only need to make a few small and well documented changes to the harness
Or you can take the time to sort out the wiring and use the obd2 ecu and distributor. The only issue with sorting out that wiring is that its not documented as well as obd1.
I personally would go with OBD1 setup.
You can run the f22 ecu to test with and you can drive with it, i have driven with mine several times. But you want to use the correct ecu for the engine.
__________________
AIM:ISUBIEXI
S/SI/Vtec Hybrid. RS*R Header, JDM downpipe, Custom Downpipe back 2.25 Exhaust, Intake, ""Mugen"" Programmed p13, No balancer belt, no AC, Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, SI trans, Power Slot rotors, SkunkII Coilovers, Enki Rims.
so i can wire the obd2 h22 up to a h22 obd1 ecu?.....will i need to use my f22 distributor?..will it work on the h22?....what about the crank angle senor on the h22 by the timing belt?.....
Get yourself an OBD1 jdm/usdm p13 ecu. Get yourself an h23/h22 OBD1 distributor. Before you drop the engine in, make sure you remove your old f22a engine wiring harness and add the necessary wires such as vtec, knock sensor etc..
The F22 distrib is different. I have tried using it, first of all it wont bolt up to a h22 block. Even if you swap the internals to a h22 distrib it still isnt timed right.
Use a p13(obd1) ecu and get a Distributor from a obd1 engine. Dont worry about that crank sensor, there is one inside the distributor.
__________________
AIM:ISUBIEXI
S/SI/Vtec Hybrid. RS*R Header, JDM downpipe, Custom Downpipe back 2.25 Exhaust, Intake, ""Mugen"" Programmed p13, No balancer belt, no AC, Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, SI trans, Power Slot rotors, SkunkII Coilovers, Enki Rims.
hey thanks alot...i found a distributor from a '95 si ..so im good there...now im in need of a ecu....can i use a p28 i can find those all day long ....will the wiring match up.....ebay..http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3ADS%3AUS%3A28
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