i swear, i am tempted to take my car to the dealership.... - Honda Prelude Forum

cifer6425 · 12-04-2006, 10:28 PM

and i despise going to the dealership.

i have that ****ing bouncing idle. still. when i changed my radiator it went away for a couple fo days. life was so good during that time. now it is back. rev up drop down, rev up drop down, rev up drop down, rev up... well you get the idea.

i thought it may be a hose with a crack in it, so i replaced it. the hose come out from the thermostat neck area and goes into the IM. my external coil rubbed a hole in it.

i am so over this problem!!

ludehawk · 12-04-2006, 10:42 PM

ship it to me then *shrug*

=)

LudemanDan · 12-04-2006, 11:18 PM

When my radiator leaked, it caused bouncing idle, so I'd say you have either a coolant leak or just not enough coolant installed. I think air bubbles going through sensors in the IM cause the bouncing idle. I'd say flush it one more time and make sure it's a real thorough job.

irishluder · 12-04-2006, 11:59 PM

my bros lude did this and a friend heard it and said MAP sensor...I never looked into it sense we did a H22 swap.

When I had the Lude if the coolant was low then it did that...possible bad radiator cap?

cifer6425 · 12-05-2006, 12:10 AM

possible. although the radiato cap is fairly new.

how long should i bleed the system for? should i just stand there and continuely (sp?) add fluid until nothing else comes out? if i remember correctly when the bleeder valve is open, then the bouncy idles happens, so i would be affraid that air would get back into the system.

i guess i could go play with the radiator some more.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ludehawk

ship it to me then *shrug*

=)

i got a 00 sh i will sell you. you pay shipping though. usually about a grand.

TruNinja619 · 12-05-2006, 02:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cifer6425

possible. although the radiato cap is fairly new.

how long should i bleed the system for? should i just stand there and continuely (sp?) add fluid until nothing else comes out? if i remember correctly when the bleeder valve is open, then the bouncy idles happens, so i would be affraid that air would get back into the system.

i guess i could go play with the radiator some more.

i got a 00 sh i will sell you. you pay shipping though. usually about a grand.

when the car reaches normal operating temperature and the fans turn on.. crack open the bleeder valve and watch the fluid spit out air bubbles untill it starts to stream coolant.. then close it.. fill the coolant to the max line.. and you should be set..

if you feel like spending $30 in a tool truck.. get a no-spill funnel... works just as good.. if not better IMO...

you may also have a vaccum leak from what you described on your first post..

LudemanDan · 12-05-2006, 02:27 AM

Fill the coolant while the car is running and the cabin heater slider is set all the way warm. Close the bleed nipple and then turn the car off. Then fill the radiator until there's no more air. If you try to fill it with the car on, or if you have the car on with the radiator cap and the bleed nipple open, it will just continue to burp and you'll waste coolant.
That's IIRC.

slipknot95758 · 12-05-2006, 07:35 AM

if you doo all of that try takining off your IAC valve and clean/replace it is what mounts on the froun of the plunm

IALuder · 12-05-2006, 10:27 AM

i would say vaccum lines. i had this problem and it was an a/c that become unconnected.

MtangKlr · 12-05-2006, 12:01 PM

I'm jumping it this midstream and I hadn't seen the orginal post as to why you are looking at the radiator for an Idle surge, this could also easily be an intake manifold leak as well as a bad fast idle control valve(IAC) or one that's just dirty, mine has gone bad before and it cost about $80 for a new one. Have you tried spraying carb cleaner around the IM gasket to listen for an idle surge that otherwise may indicate that you have a leak or not?

When mine went bad the idle would surge but only to about 2-3k then drop and then rev again it was extremely obnoxious with a loud exhaust if this sounds like your problem you may want to take your Idle air controler off and spray the screen on the back side of it to clean it up then let it dry and put it back on if this doesn't solve it then you may want to try to replace it.

cifer6425 · 12-05-2006, 05:22 PM

everyone thank you for the advice. just to let you know i have searched and worked on this issue before.

my idle only goes up to 1500 then back down. it seems to only do it after the car is warmed up. i have not checked the IM for leaks ro all the hoses. although it may not be a bad idea to start replacing some of the smaller hoses.

rayslude · 12-05-2006, 09:15 PM

an easy way to check for vacuum leaks is to spray possible leaking areas with carb cleaner while the car is on. If there is a vacuum leak, the car will bog down when sprayed with the carb cleaner.

MtangKlr · 12-06-2006, 07:01 AM

Yeah a can of carb cleaner is way cheaper than dealer fees.

Rudaluda · 12-06-2006, 08:40 PM

hey that happened to me 2 things fixed it first i adjusted the FITV behind the TB. next i let the car warm up than i opened the Coolant bleed vavle. i let all the fluid under pressure come out than shut it....presto no more rev happy car.

DoHCxVTeKz · 12-06-2006, 09:31 PM

Its your Fast Idle Valve under your TB.. I fixed my last week with the idle problem bouncing.

cifer6425 · 12-09-2006, 03:43 AM

so yesterday i started to take off the FITV, dropped my socket lost it in the engine bay. today i found another socket, did the same thing. had to jack car up to crawl under the car to find the missing sockets. i found one, thats good enough for me. finally got the FITV off, took it apart, it looked ok. is there anything i am suppose to be looking for in general?

i am tempted to order a new one. just for the hell of it.
thanks again for the help/advice.

DoHCxVTeKz · 12-09-2006, 06:56 AM

When i took the FIVC off the throttle body it. it sounded like something was loose in side... when you shake it, then i just replace it and started up my car and my idle was back to normal.

rayslude · 12-09-2006, 07:00 AM

if you take off the back brass plate there is a plastic plug that screws into the FITV, when I took mine apart I just screwed that plug back in...maybe that's your problem too...

cifer6425 · 12-09-2006, 09:01 PM

nothing sounded loose on mine. i do not remember seeing a screw.
i will have to double check.

cifer6425 · 01-11-2007, 01:19 AM

Today my FIVC came in. After replacing the old with the new and following the bleeding instruction as described in the service manual, i still have the bouncy idle. The car idle perfectly up until the fan kicked on, then rev drop, rev drop, etc.

My radiator cap has a 1.1 on it. Should it be something else?

Later tonight...
I also check for leaks around the TB and IM. After that I took off the IAC and cleaned it. Is the screen and parts inside suppose to be black? After spraying enough carb cleaner on the part to piss the wife off, some of black started to come off. On the IAC, there is two circle, one has a screen one does not. Is fluid suppose to pass through the open circle and come out the screen, or vise versa?

Tomorrow I will drive the car to work and see if the IAC cleaning helped it.