haha, is it the one behind the pedal? I need to do my clutch master cylinder but the first few times I tried, that cotter pin kept me from moving forward. I can't get my head into a position where I can see it, and I can't seem to get my hands into a position where I can remove it.
i can see it, well parts, i can feel it. the thing is, it feels like it was put in there from the back and i cant push it out without piercing my finger. I want to meet the crazy **** who put the pin in there. I ended up pushing the pedal in about 1/2 in with my hand and then loosening the locknut on the shaft (see pic below) and then loosening the adjusting shaft until it was in there no more. hopefully my illustration can help. ask me more questions about it and i will be happy to answer.
cool, I'll take a look one day when I'm not so intimidated. Lol, the last time I tried I removed one of the clock springs in the pedal assembly thinking it would somehow make removing the pin easier. I spent the next hour or so trying to get that f**ker back on.
is that the master brake cylinder? i always thought it was against the brake booster inside the engine bay? cause i remember replacing that myself........
it's like the clutch master cylinder in that part of it comes through the wall. The actual piston rod part of it does I believe, if it's anything like the clutch master cylinder.
that is the clutch master cylinder. the master brake cylinder....well, nothing comes inside. everything on the master brake cylinder comes into contact with the brake booster in the engine bay.
edit --> i am a dumbass. i dont know why i typed brake cylinder. the master brake cylinder was EASY compared to this.
but OMFG I hate this gawd damn cotter pin. I don't even know how people find room to hack saw it off OR dremel it... there's absolutely no freaking room at all to do anything AND I'm a pretty skinny guy. This has got to be the most simplest yet frustrating diy project I've ever worked on for the lude... I would rate the easiness of this fix to be up there with changing oil, but it's more frustrating than anything else I've done on the car. It's been about an hour and I feel sick from being halfway upside down inside the footwell.
/rant
__________________
-Steven
Quote:
Originally Posted by vile10
not to offend anyone but usually when you hear a loud noise but never see the car for a long while, that's probably a civic
That damn inner left bolt is the next headache. Even with a swivel adapter, it's still hard to find room to wedge it on and have leverage to take it off.
__________________
-Steven
Quote:
Originally Posted by vile10
not to offend anyone but usually when you hear a loud noise but never see the car for a long while, that's probably a civic
OMG one problem after another. Got everything back together and the last step is for me to put the hard line back into the master cylinder.... IT's NOT freaking screwing in. Did any of you guys have this problem? I hope it's just because it's just not seating properly and not because of wrong threading :mad
__________________
-Steven
Quote:
Originally Posted by vile10
not to offend anyone but usually when you hear a loud noise but never see the car for a long while, that's probably a civic
Man I just changed my brake master cylinder today and it was fairly straight forward and easy, just took some time that's all. As for the clutch m/c, sounds like something I dont want to end up having to do. Now that I just said that it is going to break next haha. Seems like once I fix something on my lude, something else wears out or breaks. Why did you have to change the clutch m/c and when do you ever have to? Sorry if it's a dumb question, I just want to know that way if it ever goes on me I will know what to look for.
Finally, after days of messing around with the stupid cylinders for little bits at a time after work, everything is back together. I started the bleeding process and finally got pressure back in the clutch. It's still pretty mushy so I gotta continue to bleed it next time I get the chance.
Just little trial and errors tips I found to make things easier for those of you going to change the clutch master and slave cylinders in the future:
-leave slack on the 2 bolts that secure the MC to the firewall to make it easier to get the hard line back in. USE flare wrenches. If you don't have em, buy em along with some swivel adapters to get to the bolts.
-The hard line going in to the slave is also a pain in the ass to get back in. It's a little soft so you can SLIGHTLY bend it to contour it to a position to make it line up with the slave. If you have bigger hands, working from underneath the car may be another option in getting the 2 bolts in for the slave. You'll need an 8 mm flare wrench for the bleed bolt. I had to make a special trip to sears to get one since all my crows foot sockets and flare wrenches only went to a size 10mm.
__________________
-Steven
Quote:
Originally Posted by vile10
not to offend anyone but usually when you hear a loud noise but never see the car for a long while, that's probably a civic
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