Ok, I'm running a Euro-R manifold, no cold start valve, blocked off IAC, blocked off fast idle valve.. I have everything hooked up so the ECU 'thinks' the IAC is doing something. And my engine idles very high, like 1500rpm with idle screw all the way closed. Soooo.. why is it idling so high? Remember, no valves to increase idle. That's as low as it gets.
It's a built JDM H22A currently running on a P14 (the engine now has 12 miles on it, so it's just breaking in so I don't 'need' a P13 or comprable equivalent at the moment (I should have my EMS this week). 12:1 CR if that makes a difference.
I think thats why, becuase you have them blocked off.d You have to have the sensors plugged in and vacume pressure to signal the ecu. because the ecu can control the idle to a certain extent.
Technically I'm not gaining anything by blocking off the IAC, but I did because it's cracked, and I'm not going to spend $165 on another one. I wish it were as easy as putting on a new one from the old lude but the IAC is way different. Though I do have it wired up, it's just not controlling air flow (I have no CEL).
Can someone do me a favor then? Can someone pull off thier IAC with it still plugged in, and cover the 2 holes with thier fingers after the car is warmed up and see what happens?
Jer, nah, I already made that mistake once *doh*... put on the mani and started it.... damn thing idled at 3k... figured out where the air was being sucked in from, took it off.... DER, so I plugged those, then put it back on.
It was still idling high 1.5k, still a sucking noise like the little holes were unplugged.... starting sticking my fingers in nooks and crannies near the sound... sticking my head all over, and found out it was coming from between the TB and Plenum, so I took off the TB and found the problem. One of the Thermo Valve ports sticks out farther than the face of the plenum and is just sucking air in, so I filled it and viola, gone. Now idles at a very happy 750.... even when it's dead cold (cause of no IAC) but it's perfect.
it doesn't get too cold here... winter here is like summer in other places, and I always sit and wait to warm my car up anyhow, so it doesn't bother me any.
Jason (AIM-->JDMSLICK96, or MSN IM-->JDMSLICK96)... For SALE: Recaro SRD Limited Edition seats, VTEC sub enclosure w/ Kicker 6x9 Free Air subwoofer (& free amp). PM w/ offers. Rest In Eternal Peace, Capt Derek Argel, Capt Jeremy Fresques, Pfc Chris Hill, & Sgt John House (all lost to Iraqi conflict).
Anybody want to buy my Lude? (Will sell in either stock or fairly modded trim).
Can't wait to see the dynos...I've been curious about getting the Euro-R mani...but then again, seems like a royal PITA to get it to work right. Why should we have to block so much stuff off to get it to work correctly?
J
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Jason (AIM-->JDMSLICK96, or MSN IM-->JDMSLICK96)... For SALE: Recaro SRD Limited Edition seats, VTEC sub enclosure w/ Kicker 6x9 Free Air subwoofer (& free amp). PM w/ offers. Rest In Eternal Peace, Capt Derek Argel, Capt Jeremy Fresques, Pfc Chris Hill, & Sgt John House (all lost to Iraqi conflict).
Anybody want to buy my Lude? (Will sell in either stock or fairly modded trim).
Are you asking why from the factory it idles high? If so, it's because when your engine first starts and warms up, it makes some not so pleasant noises, raising the idle covers those noises. Aside from that, it gives the engine a chance for those stupid people who go driving off as soon as they start the car
Slick, it's really not hard to use a Euro-R mani. It's been blown out of proportion on the mods needed to make this work. The ONLY thing you physically need to do to the manifold is plug the little holes above the injector ports on the main flange, engine side. Other than that, everything that comes on the manifold aside from the injectors is useable on your engine. You can use it's IACV, it's IAT, it's TB... just get some Euro-R injectors from RC and you're good to go.
Originally posted by prelude styl Are you asking why from the factory it idles high? If so, it's because when your engine first starts and warms up, it makes some not so pleasant noises, raising the idle covers those noises. Aside from that, it gives the engine a chance for those stupid people who go driving off as soon as they start the car
Slick, it's really not hard to use a Euro-R mani. It's been blown out of proportion on the mods needed to make this work. The ONLY thing you physically need to do to the manifold is plug the little holes above the injector ports on the main flange, engine side. Other than that, everything that comes on the manifold aside from the injectors is useable on your engine. You can use it's IACV, it's IAT, it's TB... just get some Euro-R injectors from RC and you're good to go.
Hmm...I haven't got an H22 yet, so I don't even know if it'd be worth it yet. But if/when I do get a JDM H22, and I see your dyno results, I may have to pick on up, hehe.
J
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Jason (AIM-->JDMSLICK96, or MSN IM-->JDMSLICK96)... For SALE: Recaro SRD Limited Edition seats, VTEC sub enclosure w/ Kicker 6x9 Free Air subwoofer (& free amp). PM w/ offers. Rest In Eternal Peace, Capt Derek Argel, Capt Jeremy Fresques, Pfc Chris Hill, & Sgt John House (all lost to Iraqi conflict).
Anybody want to buy my Lude? (Will sell in either stock or fairly modded trim).
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