And here is the problem I posted
"My 4th gen seems to be hesitating right about when the voltage drops from 14v to 11v. It only does it when the car is in motion and it doesn't do it when I have my lights on, but hesitation is still there. Seems to be very noticable in lower rpm around 1-2k. When ever I would accelerate from a stop light it would suddently loose power and not respond to throttle input. When I have my AC on it gets extremely bad. I've replaced every ignition component, including alternator and TPS sensor. I've been to a few honda dealers and they don't have a clue what's going on."
This was a '94 VTEC now I have a '94 Si. After some driving I came home and started reving the engine...just installed AEM intake... I had the ebrake on and seat belt removed and noticed at about 5k rpm the lights on the dash started to brighten and below 5k rpm got dim again. I took a voltage tester and sure enough it was at 12v. After I let it idle for a few minutes the problem went away but always comes back when driving.
Although I don't have any hesitation problems, I do have the exact same voltage problem as I did in VTEC. I did use Si's computer in the VTEC, it's possible that VTEC problem caused something to fry in the ECU.
So far the only thing done to Si is intake, ps pully, TB heater hose removed and blocked EGR.
Could there be a defect? Anyone else wants to try this experiment?
Interesting that you mentioned the dash lights.....
I have the same problem and I notice that when I rev out 2nd and 3rd or something, my climate control lights go out except for the one on the button that happens to be pushed in. I'm horrible with electric stuff.....what does this mean?
It's not that something is wrong with the dash lights, it's because I noticed the dash lights brighten up while reving. Indicating voltage is droping for some reason. This should not happen.
Can somebody do this test,
Let the engine warm up untill the temp. bar is half way lit. Take the car for like a minute spin and then just stop while the engine is idling quickly take the measure of the voltage at that time.
If you don't have access to volt meter, then just rev the engine past 4k rpm and watch change in dash light ouput or blinking. Should be very noticable if you look at the odometer, e-brake or no seat belt lights.
I will be contacting Honda about this. I want to see if I'm not the only one with this problem.
Last edited by vtecprelude; 04-27-2004 at 04:27 PM.
if the car starts stalling on you.., then I would advise checking your alternator.. Mine voltage regulator went out and I spent from november to february with a car that ran like **** and would stall.. Also, lights woudl do that.. Just a thought to look into.. check and see if voltage output is continuous on the lude at all rpms...
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Originally posted by 4bidden So just let it get to operating temp, then stop in neutral and rev over and under 4k and see if the lights change?
Yes. The important part is to drive the car or have the front wheels spining for like 1minute, that's all it takes and and then rev to over 4k rpm. After 4k rpm the voltage goes up. If you let the car idle while sitting for a few minites the voltage will go up by it's self. (Remember the voltage drop happens only when the car is moving or front wheels are spinning)
The intereseting part is that the voltage goes up whenever I turn the headlights on. This idicates the alterantor is working properly. I already tried using different alternator and the results were the same.
check your voltage when the car is cold (not run in a while) mine is usually around 11v. to me, it sounds like a charging problem. i think there's something wrong with how your car loads up the battery and how your battery copes with these loads. i don't even see an ECU involved (i could be wrong, this problem's wierd to me) with my battery problems i monitored my voltage over a few conditions and did notice a drop in voltage under load, but not as severe as yours. the only time my dash lights changed brightness was whenever my battery voltage was low (like jump-start with other vehicle revving to produce enough voltage low) i hope some of this may help
Originally posted by 4bidden Wait so I need to keep the car rollling and rev over/under 4k?
Try doing this;
Once the engine is fully warmed up take the car for like a minute ride, then stop (the car shouldn't be moving). Rev the engine over 4k rpm. While watching the rpm drop abserve that once the rpm reaches 4k or past the voltage goes up, as the rpm drops below 4k the voltage drops again. End.
I think the confusion was about the part taking the car for a spin. It doesn't matter wether the car is moving or the front wheels are spinning. The result is same once the car is stationary or non of wheels are spinning. The problem is that once the car is moving the voltage drops from when you first started the car.
Do you have access to a voltmeter?
Last edited by vtecprelude; 05-02-2004 at 09:42 AM.
I would greatly appreciate if someone can do this little test. I hope that non of you have the same problem, but if you do I would like to address the problem to Honda.
I notice when my car's idling, temp is already up at normal, any little switch will change the idling motion/sound of the car. Even when I press a window switch (for example up when the window's already up), I hear a change in the engine's idling, and the dash lights flicker a bit. I have a '95 Si.
I think this is a serious issue that needs to be addressed. It's possible our cars have a defect. Running with a lower voltage has many negetive benefits like lower gas mileage, weaker spark output = less hp, and possibly the cause of the hesitations everyone is having.
Last edited by vtecprelude; 05-05-2004 at 07:58 AM.
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