Hello, so i just bought an 1993 Prelude SR-V about 3 weeks ago, i got it for cheap because it needed a new clutch, i replaced the clutch, flywheel and the clutch master cylinder, today at work (i have alot of down time at work) i put new Spark plugs and a new fuel filter in, i went to start it and it would crank over but no start, and i saw some smoke comeing from the hood, one of the ground wires, going from the chasse to motor mount to valve cover, was burnt to a crisp. i replaced it and ran a new one form the battery to the other side of the valve cover. car would start but when i step on the gas it boggs out and if i hold gas pedel to the floor it completly dies. also it back fires ALOT. it was doing this alittle before i changed the plugs, but not nearly as bad. i thought it could be dirty injectors, or a cloged fuel filter, i ran STP full fuel system cleaner and STP injector cleaner. Could this have something to do with the throttle possition senser?
Any Input is appreciated, thank and sorry if somethign like this has already been coverd
What plugs did you use? What gap? Did you change the plug wires as well?
It could be a sensor or it could be choking on either end of the motor.
A clogged air filter, clogged injectors, a clogged cat, etc. There are lots of possibilities. Do you have a CEL?
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1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded
1998 Prelude SH - totaled on 3/29/12
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F - sold
No there was No CEL, the car came with after market wires and seem prity new. and the air filter isnt bad, it could use a new one tho, and as far as the cat, i have a decent size leak in the exhaust befor the cat... they were Boush preformance plugs x4 they have 4 prongs instead of 1, it said they dont need to be gaped
Bosch items don't work well in our cars. What kind of leak? Crack? External Rupture? Dent+hole?
__________________
1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded
1998 Prelude SH - totaled on 3/29/12
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F - sold
Its a dent+hole last night i took the car home, Very carefully, and my buddy and i took a closer look at it, it started to back fire through the intake, we turned the distributor back to stock position, Now i have No problems accelerating but it wont idle, at all, it just boggs out and dies, and takes a very very long time to start back up again. I know how to set the timeing belt but im not pro at all, so i made an appointment with my mechanic. hopefully this will solve my problem.
How to Test:
1. Plug the TPS harness into the new TPS.
2. You'll see three wires exiting the cars wiring harness that you just plugged into the TPS. Take a paperclip, straighten out half of it, and shove it into where the middle wire exits the harness. You'll feel it when the paperclip touches metal.
3. Hook up your mulimeter test leads - nice if you have alligator clips, positive to the paperclip, negative to any ground in the engine bay. Set your multimeter to the 20V position.
4. Turn you ignition key to the Acc position. Do not turn on the car.
5. Go back and check your mulitmeter. You should be seeing something in the range of .5V give or take a few tenths.
6. Now adjust - first, turn the throttle by hand to the WOT position. While holding it there, turn the TPS until you get a reading of 4.5V. This is your target reading for WOT. Tighten down the screws. Let go of the throttle and let it go to full closed. You should see something around .5V. The specified range in the Honda manual is .5V closed and 4.5V WOT. There's been debate on this forum whether to set using WOT or closed. I went with WOT. Fortunately my values ended up being exactly .5V and 4.5V anyway.
7. Congrats! You're done. Just reinstall your throttle body. Be sure to double check you have all the vacuum lines in the right places.
It should read 0.5v with the throttle closed and smoothly transition to 4.5v or so as you open then throttle by hand. If it isn't at 0.5v with the throttle closed or if the voltage drops to 0 when opening it, then it is broken
so i took my car to my mechanic, he said he didnt think it was the timeing but it was back fireing through the intake so i still think it is, what else could cause that? and my mech is an a*s hole what was going to be a couple hour visit turned into a 2 day stay because he didnt look at it, didnt call me at all, i had to track him down. he told me it would be done by fri and he would call me. he didnt but he did leave early that day and wont be back in till tues, i called the receptionist and picked up me car. i dont have a mulit meter, is there any way i can check the TPS without one? or where could i find a cheap one? thanks again for all you help everyone
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