well i got the dash harness from a 95 that's going into my 93. after looking in my helms it's definately a bit different. first of all how much of my dash do i need to take apart to get to everything, right now i have the gauges out, and the long black cover. how do i get to the plugs below the tweeter housing? i can't seem to find the right ones, maybe it's cause the new harness is different? if anyone could help me out and give me pointers, please do.
last i haerd, its not that bad. Preluderacer023 might be able to explain it better, but it involves snaking that sucker down the sides of the car and stuff. For my EL swap i'm just gonna match wires since i have three harnesses for the EL gauges to begin with so hopefully it wont be that bad.
sorry if thise doesn't do squat for ya, but pm preluderacer023
goodluck
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Brandon
Captain - my other car has two engines
1993 Prelude Si (JDM H22A with automatic to 5spd Swap) My white 93 Vtec
AIM: Mach30SiR
ok well thank god i have small hands, i got those two pain in the ass plugs below the pass tweeter. i have 3 plugs left to find and undo, and the new one is already halfway in. theres really no snaking down at all. 80% of the harness is behind the gauge panels. the rest just goes down under where the tweeters are. two plugs below the pass side tweeter, and then 6 plugs below the drivers side (including the one plugging into the fuse box). you need the dash harness from a 94-96 to run the EL gauges in your 92-93 (from what i know). mine came with the harness and that dimmer thing. i just swapped that black dimmer box. that's all i have to do right? oh yeah you also need the inverter which i havent even looked at yet. my hands are all cut up, thanks for the replies im going back out to finish.
ok well everything is pretty much in. the inverter is just sitting on top of the back of my AF gauge. i have one problem though:
when i put on my turn signal, both arrows on the gauges light up (like when you have your hazards on) and when i turn my hazards on, no arrows light up, but it still clicks. everything works normal on the outside though. any ideas?
Originally posted by wutangben ok well everything is pretty much in. the inverter is just sitting on top of the back of my AF gauge. i have one problem though:
when i put on my turn signal, both arrows on the gauges light up (like when you have your hazards on) and when i turn my hazards on, no arrows light up, but it still clicks. everything works normal on the outside though. any ideas?
There is a connector on the passenger side that is left hanging or for lack of a better word...it is not connected to anything. Take an 18 guage wire and connect one end to the black wire on the dimmer controller and connect the other end to the black wire on the hanging connector
In short ground the black wire on the hanging connector and everything will be fine.
umm i just matched the colored wires together and it woks fine kinda when i got the EL cluster i took the harness off it too matched the wires now rthat i knwo i was suppose to get the whole harness i just might have to find one.......
Well, it looks like everyone beet me to the answers wutangben. Otherwise i would've helped. I had no problems at all installing mine with the new harness and all. Start to finish took me about an hour. If you have any other problems let us know.
Yep, ground that wire like he said and your turn signals should be fine. My inverter is also just wedged in there behind my driverside tweeter, no problems at all.
You don't NEED the newer dash harness. You can splice in the connectors that go into the EL cluster if you know the proper pinouts and they have been posted several times. If you do get the entire harness however its simply plug and play. Make sure you use the dimmer control module that comes with the NEW dash harness. This will allow the speedo/tach, fuel/temp, and clock all to dim at the same time.
Wutang: Once you get the EL cluster in the next step is BLUE Blue the cluster and the entire dash, then move on to LED climate control
This picture isn't very good but you get the idea (blue is bluer and the red indicator lights are RED, not orangish)
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AIM: munscher
'93 Si | AEM | JDM | B&M | Optima | RS*R | GC | KYB | SPC | Kuhmo | Neuspeed | FMS | DC ................................. I Love My Job
yeah, i have my dimmer hooked up and it works lovely. which wire do i ground on that extra plug? the green one or black one? i wanted to go blue before, but i kind of like the oem color. it's almost like getting blueish headlights to me. (even though i used to wanted blue headlights). right now i'm gonna leave it green until maybe i need a change. anyway i did a small write up on sho, maybe i'll post it here too. i dont have pics though...
Well to do this, you need the wiring harness from a 94-96 lude. (you might be able to wire it by hand some other way but thats going to be a lot of work) The cluster itself, the silver inverter box that has 3 plugs that go into the cluster. This box get's mounted behind your driverside tweeter. The dimmer relay, which is the black box that gets screwed into the white tray. You already have one with your current setup, but this one allows you to dim the gauge cluster itself too.
1. Remove original cluster and ****.
- remove tweeter speaker housings
- remove instrument panel visor/the top piece (8 screws)
- remove the black face panel and (3 screws) disconnect the connector for the clock reset switch (small green plug)
- remove the 4 screws from the main gauge assembly (speedo and tach)
- remove the 4 screws from the sub gauge assembly (gas, clock, etc)
- remove both assemblies by putting them face down (on a piece of cloth or something that wont scratch the face) and disconnecting all the plugs that go into them (3 in each i believe)
now that we have that **** out of the way we must remove the original wiring harness. now the way i did it was, i hooked up the new harness as i unhooked the old one. you don't need to pull your dash or anything for this. actually you don't have to take anything else apart.
2. Remove 92-93 Dash Harness
(i started from the passenger side and it seemed to work for me, you can choose however you want to do it.)
- unplug the 2 plugs below the tweeter. the best way to do this is to pull the big chunk of harness up through the hole that it's going down through. there is a foam piece that is in the middle of it, and you want to pull it past that so you can have more room and see the actually connectors you have to unplug. these two are probably the most difficult ones to disconnected (and even a bigger pain to plug back in) it might help for you to look underneath it all so you can see what you're dealing with. once you get those 2 connectors unplugged, pull it out from the hole.
- if you haven't already disconnected the two wires from the tweeter, do it now.
- unplug the connector from the dimmer control (the black box)
- as you go, take your pliers and yank out all those annoying orange clip thingies that stick through the holes. try not to break them.
- the next 6 connectors should already be unplugged because they were the ones that were plugged into the gauge assemblies.
- move on to the driverside. disconnect the tweeter wires if you haven't already.
- now there are 2 sets of 3 plugs that you have to take care of.
- take your flathead screwdriver and pop of the trim arround your cruise control, sunroof, and dimmer buttons. disconnect those 3 plugs.
- now you're gonna have to go underneath for these next three. there's a bunch of connectors down there so the easiest way to find the ones you'll be disconnecting is to first find the one that plugs into the fuse box. it's blue, it's got 16 pins and it's plugged right into the middle of your fuse box. once you have that unplugged, follow the wires back up to the two other connectors that are coming off the same bunch. one is plugged into the left wire harness and the connector is covered in grey foam. the other is a bit bigger and is plugged into the main harness right next to another plug. take a look at the route that these three plugs went down, becaues you're going to be routing the new harness the same way.
- pull the wiring harness out completely off and throw it into the street as a sign of victory.
3. Install New Wiring Harness.
- do the same thing you did in step 2 just plug stuff in instead of disconnecting.
- the one thing you need to do that i haven't done yet has to do with the extra plug (small one) that's at the end of the passenger side of the harness. you need to ground that plug. it doesnt plug into anything, but if you don't ground it, your turn signals will be messed up. now preluderacer023 told me it's the green wire that needs to be grounded, someone else told me it was the black wire. whichever it may be, you need to ground it. i would just cut it and attatch a new wire to it, and attatch that to the ground wire of something else. (like the black wire from the dimmer relay)
- plug those orange things back in (hopefully they come on your harness).
- everything else is pretty self-explanitory
4. Put gauges and **** back in.
- plug everything up and see if it works. the invertor goes right behind the driverside tweeter, but i'm yet to be sure how it gets mounted. once everything is working, you can start putting everything back in the same way it came out.
AAAND you're done now you can stare at your dope new gauges and drool.
Originally posted by sik96prelude And just to let everyone know you do not need a newer dimmer box. It can be done without a new one and still dim.
Yes you do need the 94-96 Dimmer controller box. The design is different and it will allow the guage and instructment cluster w/ the clock to dim.
I know because I tried using my 93 guage and it did not dim.
No you don't. I just did one on a friends car and with changing a few wires it works perfectly. How are you gonna tell me it doesn't work when I DID IT. I turn the dimmer knob and guess what the clock, temp, gas and cluster all dim together. Go check your notes again you are wrong.
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got it
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