Ezra

Argh.... I have been raking my brains trying to figure out how to finish my setup... snifle snifle... I have built an h23 hybrid with a goldeneagle intake, mustang 70mm tb, ractive header, type s .25mm pistons, obd 1 oil pump, balancing shafts removed-plugged, balanced, obd2 to obd1 dist conv, and now i come to the last piece... an h22 p13 auto jdm ecu. The engine runs fine with the old h23 p14. Now the lude is a 96 Si model witch was the first obd2 model prelude put out. Also this preldue has abs so... i find that it uses all 4 pigtals, a,b,c,d. Now the problem i had posted about earlier "slippage 3 - 4" and was caused by the p13 ecu not having a plug for the "b" pigtail since b4 and b5 run my converter lock up and "A" valve solenoid. So as a result my D4 was just 4th gear. no 1st, 2nd or 3rd... i also had no
2nd... note: the green led would not turn on for D4 or 2nd. So when i plugged in my P14 back in everything worked fine... i have looked at the p13 in the helms and i dont show a pin that would correspond to my p14's B4,B5.... I am going to hook up the p14 and try to get a reading of these pins then i hope duplicate the voltage so i can get the p13 to work.... unless some one has a better p13 pinout the one i have is

A1 brn Injector #1
A2 yel Injector #4
A3 red1 Injector #2
A4 grn/yel VTEC Solenoid Valve
A5 blu Injector #3
A6 or/wht HO2S heater coil
A7 grn/blk1 PGM-FI Main Relay coil
A8 grn/blk2 Shorted to A7
A9 blk/blu IAC Valve
A10 - -
A11 red2 EGR Control Solenoid
A12 blu/red Condenser Fan Relay
A13 blu/wht MIL
A14 - -
A15 red/blu A/C Clutch Relay
A16 wht/grn Alternator
A17 pink IAB Solenoid Valve
A18 - -
A19 wht Intake Control Solenoid Valve
A20 red/grn EVAP Purge Control Solenoid
A21 yel/grn1 ICM
A22 yel/grn2 Shorted to A21
A23 blk1 GND
A24 blk2 GND
A25 yel/blk PGM-FI Main Relay (power)
A26 blk/red VTEC Pressure Switch (GND)
B1 yel/blk PGM-FI Main Relay (power)
B2 brn/blk GND
B3 - -
B4 - -
B5 blu/blk To A/C Switch
B6 - -
B7 - -
B8 red/grn PSP Switch
B9 blu/red Starter Cut Relay
B10 orn2 VSS
B11 orn3 CYP
B12 wht CYP
B13 orn/blu TDC
B14 wht/blu TDC
B15 blu/grn CKP
B16 blu/yel CKP

D1 wht/yel Battery
D2 grn/wht1 Brake Switch
D3 red/blu KS
D4 brn/wht SCS
D5 - -
D6 lt blu or lt grn VTEC Pressure Switch
D7 lt grn/red Data Link Connector
D8 - -
D9 wht/red ALT
D10 grn/blk ELD
D11 red/blk TP Sensor
D12 wht/blk EGR Valve Lift Sensor
D13 yel/blu ECT Sensor
D14 wht HO2S Sense
D15 red/yel IAT Sensor
D16 - -
D17 wht/blu MAP Sensor
D18 - -
D19 red/wht EGR Valve Lift Sensor
D20 yel/wht TP Sensor
D21 blu/wht MAP Sensor
D22 grn/wht2 TP Sensor

From http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=549372



Now the p14 pinout i have no idea becuse the diagram i got shows the tcs having contol of the trans and not the ecu what gives?....

If someone knows the proper p14 pinout please let me know what the "b" pigtail controls...

It seems resources are even more scarce for the auto lude comunity than i thought well once i get it done i'll do the best i can to document how i made it work.

Thanks everyone

Ezra-

PS: can someone post pics for me? Email me please so everyone can see what i'm talking about.

yohan420

Have you considered going back to ODB2 and getting the ECU from an accord sir-t ?

You'd want to couple it with VAFC because of the CR difference and it may need a little subtle fine tuning ...

Although, that ECU goes for the Triptonic transmission ... Another nice addition if you can get it ?

__________________

Ezra

Well i searched like crazy last night and also played around with the car and.... no i cant duplicate the signal from b4,b5 with just a vcc source because there is actually some kind of variable signal there.... SO last night I searched in the 5th gen and found that those guys cant remove their ecus either due to some signal between the tcs and the ecu.... so i got to thinking... what if i just get another pigtail from a wrecked lude and hook up the two ecus together... now I would have to feed the p14 all the senor reading but i would not let it out put any engine control signals.... cut the injectors off, etc... but i would let it "see" the dist, tps, o2, temp, etc... and have the p13 actually control the injectors... Any thoughts?.... well wish me luck I do it tonight after i finish working on this explorer i have to do today... blew a head gasket yesterday.... Stupid driver didn't have a radiator cap and over heated the poor thing...
wish me luck...

Ezra

IF you love your prelude there is nothing you wont do... pero esta cosa se esta convirtiendo en una pinchx friega... Bueno de todas maneras le voy a ganar a estas dos ecus...

[SUB[EX]

I think your trying too hard. It would be easier to do a manual swap. and get a manual ecu or chip yours.

I thought the auto only had 1-2 extra wires? One is a white wire.

__________________
AIM:ISUBIEXI
S/SI/Vtec Hybrid. RS*R Header, JDM downpipe, Custom Downpipe back 2.25 Exhaust, Intake, ""Mugen"" Programmed p13, No balancer belt, no AC, Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, SI trans, Power Slot rotors, SkunkII Coilovers, Enki Rims.

Ezra

Well i think i can do it and i dont think its too much work for clean consisten shifts... Now there are more wires on mine due to the there being abs on my board... I have pics but i cant post them on here However, I believe with my p14 is much more closley related to the obd 2 fifth gens p5m ecu. i have one of these suckers but it too did not have the abs "b" pigtail either But it does not start my motor at all.... :: the p13 does and this is what i want so i'll invest in here and maybe find a way for fifth gens to modify their ecu systems as well I'll keep you guys posted

Ezra-