I was foolish and didn't replace my auto tensioner when swapping my H23 w/ H22A .. as a result, it failed 27kl later and I found my car making funny noises. Timing belt slapping against the valve cover etc. I verified my assumption by removing the valve cover and cranking it a couple times watching my timing belt jump.
I did drive it home easily so know I'm at risk for bent valves, but my main concern right now is to replace the tensioner while the engine is in the car.
Specifically, I'm wondering how much hastle there is in lowering the engine.
Is it a b*tch to get back into place ?
I'm going to jack up the engine w/ a piece of wood under the oil pan and give it just enough support to get the driver side engine mount out, then lower it so it rests on the center beam. Will this give me enough clearance to everything?
Also, any other tips for doing this on the car? I am already familiar with the procedure but I was content in doing it when it was on the floor not in the car the first time.
I've done almost a dozen H22 timing belts. Its not that hard. you don't need to jack up the engine. You don't need to take out the subframe or the cross beam.
You'll need a Deep 17mm Socket
And then just loosen both the Nut and the Bolt that hold the side mount to the engine. This will lower the engine without problems. Its also strong enough to rise the engine back once your done.
__________________
96 Prelude R.I.P 6.26.04 www.ntpog.org
- Sneaky Doug (Genious with a Learning Disablity)
NTPOG President
71dsp's Monkey-Wrench-B!tch
To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research.
Ok, to answer everybodys question, I just did this ::
You don't need to remove the center beam.
What you need to do in a nutshell:
buy: Timing Belt, Tensioner, Balancer Belt (optional in my opinion, car just idles rougher but should give like 2lbs more torque) new lower seal for the timing belt cover. Mine was trashed on JDM and stock engines.
Don't skip the tensioner, thats why I'm having this problem and most likely bent valves.
Loosen driver side lug nuts
Put her up on jack stands.
remove driver side tire
remove splash guard
Pop the hood,
disconnect cables on altenator,
remove power steering belt / pump,
remove altenator / AC Belt,
remove valve cover,
get a piece of 2x4 or other wood (short) and use it to jack up the engine under the oil pan on driver side. Just enough to raise it and take the weight off the engine mount, you'll enjoy dropping it to get clearance to the crank pulley bolt - this makes it easier to tighten the engine mount as well instead of using the bolt/nut to lift the weight of the engine into place.
You'll want to undo the cruise control to get access to the engine mount (when replacing timing belt you need to undo the mount to get the belt on/off)
MAKE SUR EYOU HAVE 10mm, 12mm and 14mm ratcheting wrench's, if you pick these up you'll thank me later. my hands and knuckles were begging for these.
Otherwise its easy, remove the dip stick, take off the side covers, remove all the bolts, crank pulley bolt is the worst of course but you can read a wide variety of stories with breaker bars and using the honda crank pulley holder etc. once its off, pull off the pulley and take off the side covers.
inside, you should know how to do this .. its not that difficult to reach but to get the lower cover off, make sure the engine is jacked up as high as you can get it.
When I put it back on, I had to pull it and bend it a bit to get it up into place, then I had to put the seal on manually .. I re-used my old seal but wish I had bought a new one because it would a) stick on better and b) seal better.
It took me 6hours and 4 beers. but I had ppl visiting me so I bs'd a bit.. still got it done.
Nothing more than the above needs to be done. This is the stripped down easy version.. I think I might be off a couple teeth on the timing belt so I'l lhave to do this over, hoping it takes only 4hours.
Get a timing gun and dbl check this when complete.
My car us running like ****, exhaust note is super loud so I think I bent valves, I need to do a compression test.
Spot, I aligned the 2 cam gears with the arrows pointing up, as well theres one tooth on the crank pulley that should align with an arrow on the block ... for some reason when I took out the bracket for the auto tensioner, it appeared as though it was off, the crank seemed a bit more to the right .. but it started so I said fuqit :P ..
I'm going to take off my valve cover, put a screwdriver in the spark plug hole, jack up the driver side and with the car in gear, I'll turn the driver side tire until the screwdriver shows the piston as high as it can go, if the cam gears aren't pointing straight up its timing ... if they are, then I can only assume I have bent valves...
I haven't used a timing light yet to see if the dizzy needs to be turned.
On the cam gears there are little grooves that should be aligned to each other when you have the cams at TDC. For the exhaust cam gear that mark is located exactly 90 degress clockwise from the 'Arrow' mark. For the Intake Cam Gear that mark can be found exactly 90 degress counter clockwise of the 'Arrow' mark.
So they'll align together when both cams are in TDC.
__________________
96 Prelude R.I.P 6.26.04 www.ntpog.org
- Sneaky Doug (Genious with a Learning Disablity)
NTPOG President
71dsp's Monkey-Wrench-B!tch
To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research.
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