crackhouse

I'm new to the board here and want to say hi to everyone. Now to my problem.

I am installing the oil squirters from an H22A into my H23A. The problem is I have no idea where the inlet tube is supposed to connect to. The blocks for H22A's and H23A's are the same part number in the catalog as well as the main cap bridge and other associated parts. The H23A block is already machined for the oil squirters. Does anyone who has had thier H22A engine apart know where I connect into? If you have pictures, that would be great. Oh, before you ask 'why'; the engine is completely built with Crower rods, JE 9:1 pistons, balanced and blueprinted bottom end, etc for a very optimistic 20 psi of boost. I can't put the rest of the car together until I know where those oil squirters go. Thanks for any help!
Brent

jpprelude

First of all, I can't help you, but thanks for letting me know the H23 was already tapped for the squirters. I was wondering about this today while pondering the future for my motor.

Your motor sounds interesting, do you have any more info. I ;m pretty sure it isn't done yet.

Thanks

__________________
1994 Prelude Si (Sitting in Garage)
2004 WRX Wagon (Pounding the snow)

crackhouse

Man, I just wrote the longest post ever and it logged me out! Ok, here goes again. Maybe I will type faster this time.

Yeah, when I opened the engine up and saw the holes tapped for the squirters, I was pretty excited. Now if I could only see how honda put them in there on the H22's.
Nothings been done to the head aside from AEM cam gears. I am going to port and polish the head if I have time. I will not change the cams because I can't justify spending the money. The pistons are 0.020 oversize. The block is being machined right now. The great thing about this block is that it doesn't have to be resleeved like the H22's. I was upset at first because I thought I was going to have to resleeve the block but JE said the H22's are the ones you do that to, not the H23's. The turbo is a Turbonetics T3/TO4E "46" trim with stage III turbine and water cooled bearing section. The nice thing about this turbo is that you can run from 10 to 23 psi and still keep the peak torque point in the max efficiency island. The wastegate is also a Turbonetics unit. The intercooler is a Spearco 2-262 assembly that flows 670 cfm. Injectors are Greddy 720 cc/min units (just painted Denso injectors). Much cheaper than what RC wants for 720's. I just bought an AEM EMS but I haven't put it in because I don't want to change too many things before the engine is in so troubleshooting won't be so difficult. Trouble! Yeah right. It'll start right up! Fuel pump is an MSD unit that flows 43 gallons/hour. Yeah, MSD makes fuel pumps. I didn't know either, but it was 100 bucks so we'll see. 43 gal/hr is about the max flow of fuel I would need at redline and 22 psi. AEM fuel rail, FPR. MSD SCI and blaster coil. Lots of Autometer gauges. NSX calipers, AEM big brake upgrade. VTEC rotors and SI calipers on rear with custom mounting bracket. There's a ton of other stuff, but this post is long and I don't want to be logged off again and have to retype it.

jpprelude

Thanks so much man. Your setup is very impressive. Be sure to keep us posted because there are a lot of interested H23ers.

you just answered another question I had with my rear brake setup. I was contemplating moving my front setup to my rear because I am upgrading my fronts. Is it prettymuch a bolt on setup? I will be keeping my Si calipers just to keep it simple.

Thanks again.

__________________
1994 Prelude Si (Sitting in Garage)
2004 WRX Wagon (Pounding the snow)

crackhouse

The rears are a pain. Nothing bolts up at all. You have to mill the stock SI bracket down about 1/8th of an inch to clear the VTEC rotor and then you have to either a) make a removable bracket like in the AEM big brake kit to hold on the caliper or b) weld some sort of bracket on to hold the caliper. I tried to make a bracket using the machine shop here at school. It fit, except for one thing: the bracket didn't clear the wishbone on the suspension and the place of interference was right at one of the bolt holes. well, plan b worked out good. I cut out some 1/4 inch steal and welded it to the stock hub assembly where the rear caliper mounts up and then drilled out the holes to bolt the SI calipers up. It was alot of work,but I think it was worth it. The brake bias is a little weird though. I think the rears are almost more powerful than the fronts now. I need to get a proportioning valve to smooth things out. the bad thing about the NSX calipers is that they have less piston area than the original SI calipers, so you actually get less braking force. That's the reason for the big brake rotors. Longer moment arm for braking. The 93 to 95 lengend calipers bolt right up to the front mounts like the NSX's (with prelude VTEC rotors) and have about 20% more piston area than the NSX calipers if you want 2 piston calipers. Oh, you could probably use the SI calipers and rotors without using a bracket. I just had some VTEC rotors from the original NSX setup I had and wanted them on the rear. The front and rear rotors on SI's have about the same diameter. I think you could just have the bracket tapped for threads and just bolt them right up. Oh, the only problem is that now I have no parking brake! I am coming up with a solution for that one. I thought about just welding up more brakets for the original rear calipers to retain the parking brake but that's too much weight and there's not enough room. I'll have to think a while longer on that. I need something like a hydraulic lock that when you say, turn your car off and have your foot on the brake at the same time, a switch would lock your brake pedal in place, holding the car.
Brent

jpprelude

Thanks again. I was already going to pick up some Legend caliper/ VTEC rotors for the front, and throw my Si caliper/ rotors in the rear,so I should be OK.

red92s

wow, sounds like someones going to school to be an engineer. . .