h22a changed distributor now even re tuned still misses some!!
So my lude was running strong then it got to be 110 or so here in Kansas and the igniter failed. So i replaced it and a couple weeks ago it went out again faster than last time. So i bought a whole new dissy cuz the old wires inside were getting a little rusty with poor connections.
The new dizzy fit right in and the car started right away but it took me awhile to get the timing right. I took my time tuning and the lowest rpm my motor sits at is around 1300 and at that with the jumper wire in i got it set to 16* btdc.
With this setting it still doesn't sound just right and i'm not sure if i want to go for a test drive, it seems like its just still kinda missing, and its throwing code 15.
Ive spent the last week searching the net and coming up with nothing.
Any ideas one what might be wrong would be greatly appreciated.
Well It has a good spark and starts well but when I had my timing light on it and i was turning the distributor housing to tune it I got the living piss shocked out of me twice. So your short idea may make sense haha. I got an MSD ignition and external coil and i think that wire between the cap and coil is what shocked me so i guess ill change it and hope it works.
Do you think cranking on a dead igniter would short that wire,and cause very minor missing?
It just didoes run happy going down the road when it gets warmed up
I dont know when ill be able to change the wire. I got one at home but the car starts just fine right now and it revs up to 2000 rpm and holds around there while its warming up. For the first 20-30 seconds of running it sounds perfect then it misses once real short. Then about 5 -7 seconds later it will miss again and repeat in that cycle.
Just a little more info
Alright got the new wires on it and the code 15 went away but it stilll misses, unless i put the jumper wire in the connector like they say to do when timing the ignition system. When that wire is in i looked for codes and got none and it seemed to me like the little bit of missing went away.
I dont think i should drive around with a paperclip in there, so any ideas on what my computer is telling the motor to do and how to fix it would be much appreciated!
alright so I guess I need to tank this car or something. I got it warm today idling to warm it up then started to check the timing again with jumper wire in place and i couldnt find the marks on the flywheel this time and i started turning the dissy slowly both ways so i could find it and i didn't plus when i got it back to were it was it sputtered out and died.
Is any one in kansas or in the surrounding area who would wanna take a look at it for cash or know any shops that could help because ive read countless posts and made a couple of my own and feel like giving up.
alright so I guess I need to tank this car or something. I got it warm today idling to warm it up then started to check the timing again with jumper wire in place and i couldnt find the marks on the flywheel this time and i started turning the dissy slowly both ways so i could find it and i didn't plus when i got it back to were it was it sputtered out and died.
Is any one in kansas or in the surrounding area who would wanna take a look at it for cash or know any shops that could help because ive read countless posts and made a couple of my own and feel like giving up.
any aftermarket performance parts?
stock idle is around 800rpm
plus when your adjusting the dizz is the Ac off?(you wont get it set right if its on)
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well there is an msd ignition system. Wich has the external coil and another part the same size as the coil but im not sure what it is then there is the computer for the msd system.
I dont know why the car idles so high but it has been leveling out to 1000 rpm when it gets warmed up. I never looked up if msd would interfere with timing but i was pritty sure it wouldnt.
Well its had the Msd ignition system for a very long time. I put 12,000 miles on it so far and idk how many the previous driver put on it. I think he threw a bunch new parts at it when his igniter went out cuz he gave me a couple boxes of stuff he had put on the car and taken off and there was a coil an ecu and a dissy that i tested and they seemed to be good still.
Anyways the idle is steady so i didn't think i had a vacuum issue, but i will try to check it too.
I changed the fuel filter a month ago and when i put the new one on I tested fuel pressure the lazy way and sprayed fuel all over the motor and it gushed hard.
If i get a couple hours some time soon ill check everything out anyways and get a friend and try re-timing it again.
Well i found some time a little bit ago and i got it done right and i got it set to 15degrees btdc and it idles lower n all but it does't drive really. I checked it when i was done too and it remained at 15, but when i went to test drive it as i tried to accelerate it bogged down so i parked it and gave up for the night.
It was at 20 or so degrees btdc when it was warming up to be adjusted and it sounded like it was knocking untill the rpm's dropped.
I dont really know what the problem is but i will have to try again tomorrow, and check anything you guys may suggest. If that doesnt work I will probably have to start handing my money out to mechanics.
Condition of plugs/wires? Aftermarket junk or original parts? Had a car once at the dealer where a customer came in with a miss and it was the plugs even though they bought NGK platinum's and gapped them themselves but it turned out that the ones NGK makes for Honda are different. New Honda plugs and it ran normal again.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
Well I need to do more testing but the wires are msd, the ones they brag about so much. The plugs are nkg iridium plugs i bought maby 400 miles ago when my igniter originally went out. What kind of plugs should i buy if those are not working out?
NGK platinum Honda plugs are pretty fool proof, my entire ignition system is OEM and has never missed even during tuning while running the car constantly up to redline.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
Yea well i went out and took a short drive and it seemed to be ok, but im not compleatly sure yet because I didn't have enough time to warm it up till the fans come on.
If I had the OEM ignition system I would throw it back in just to reassure myself, but I really don't think its messing up because everything tests good and all that. Although i'm far from a good mechanic
Well this time when I tried driving it around it sounded like it was missing randomly and it acts the same as though the timing is advanced more than it should be. I will check it later today to see if it is advanced or not, which it would have to be doing via the computer im guessing because it was at 15 and the dissy is about out of adjustment in the direction to retard timing.
I will also go ahead and buy platinum plugs and throw them in I guess. I dont know much about the difference in how the two kinds work compared to each other.
Got time to check the timing again and it is running around 16 btdc but it fluctuates if i sit and watch it. This is before putting the jumper wire in, and it will go down to 15 but tries to head farther advanced up around 20-22 btdc and I know that is getting bad.
My idle when its fully warmed up is about 1200 rpm it wanders a very small amount, to the point you can really only hear it changing but the needle wont move but the smallest amount maby +or-50rpm
With the jumper wire in it may only vary 15-20degrees btdc but it still seems to wander.
Im gonna try cleaning both idle control valves and see if that helps.
I know I must be spamming with posts but in conclusion I got it running again and it seems to stay at 17-18 degrees btdc and runs fine. I got a cell code 9 when I hit vtec so I swapped my dizzy for an old working one a friend had. Now I haven't run it hard yet but when i hit vtec it doesnt throw a #9 and it runs well so I think i fixed it finnaly.
When I was tuning it though it was hard to get timing to change so i tried pulling the clock fuse and resetting the computer each time i made an adjustment, which finnaly got it to start running were I wanted. It acted like it lost power as i tried accelerating but it went away when i let it cool down over night and tried it today with no problems. It had this loss of power when it had the last dizzy in it too and it got hot for a long time.
It like the dizzy gets hotter to the touch than the top of the motor, which makes me think it may be burning up the igniter and idk how you would fix that. I dont know yet if the problem will continue but i will update if it does.
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