H22 VTEC lude becomes sluggish and bogs when it gets heated up!! Plz Help!! - Honda Prelude Forum - Prelude Online.com
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Old 08-18-2008, 11:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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H22 VTEC lude becomes sluggish and bogs when it gets heated up!! Plz Help!!

Hi,

I have a JDM BB4 prelude with a H22 Vtec motor. For the last 2 days, ive been noticing that when the car gets a bit heated up (like after a sudden burst of acceleration / after 10-20 mins of driving) the car becomes sluggish...it bogs and RPM hesitates to go up ...

I thought that it might have been a failing fuel pump... replaced bt still the same problem!I also serviced the injectors and replaced the fuel filter...bt no change!

Can anyone please help me out on what could be the reason for this problem...and what things to check on? Would highly appreciate an urgent response...

Thanks.
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Old 08-19-2008, 12:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by russel_h22a View Post
Hi,

I have a JDM BB4 prelude with a H22 Vtec motor. For the last 2 days, ive been noticing that when the car gets a bit heated up (like after a sudden burst of acceleration / after 10-20 mins of driving) the car becomes sluggish...it bogs and RPM hesitates to go up ...

I thought that it might have been a failing fuel pump... replaced bt still the same problem!I also serviced the injectors and replaced the fuel filter...bt no change!

Can anyone please help me out on what could be the reason for this problem...and what things to check on? Would highly appreciate an urgent response...

Thanks.


Urgent help needed....someone pls help me out with this :|
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1995 JDM (BB4) Prelude Si VTEC (H22a)
1990 EE90 Toyota Sprinter LX (5AFE)

1998 AE111 Toyota Sprinter GT (4AGE) - Sold
1999 EP91 Toyota Glanza V (4EFTE) - Sold
1998 Honda Civic Exi (D15B) - Sold
1992 Honda Civic Ex (D15B) - Sold
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Old 08-19-2008, 01:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Sounds like the all too common H22 hesitation problem... Do a search for H22 hesitation and you will find quite a few threads. There's no one solution to this problem, people usually just throw parts at it and pray that it gets fixed
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Old 08-22-2008, 03:34 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Sounds like the all too common H22 hesitation problem... Do a search for H22 hesitation and you will find quite a few threads. There's no one solution to this problem, people usually just throw parts at it and pray that it gets fixed
Sh*t man...ive been thru some of the longest threads in this site regarding this hesitation problem...no one with any proper solution!! Really worries me now

However, there's an update...i disconnected the EGR solenoid harness...the chk engine light is on due to removal of this harness but the car's been running fine for the last 2 days. Any idea what could've gone wrong?

...and could u pls tell me where the diagnosis harness for this OBD1 prelude is located?...also how the harness looks like (if possible, a pic would be of gr8 help). I couldnt locate the harness

Thanks.
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1999 EP91 Toyota Glanza V (4EFTE) - Sold
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Old 08-22-2008, 04:08 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Honda-Tech.com: Honda Prelude: No more 3k hesitation, Better Gas Milage, Smoother partial thottle response., be sure to look at my post at the bottom of that page.
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Old 08-22-2008, 07:15 AM   #6 (permalink)
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^ That will only work if he has those removable plugs and not a spot weld.
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Old 08-22-2008, 08:18 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russel_h22a View Post
...i disconnected the EGR solenoid harness...the chk engine light is on due to removal of this harness but the car's been running fine for the last 2 days. Any idea what could've gone wrong?
Without running my tests, i think you are headed in the right direction. Does it still feel sluggish if you WOT it while its warmed up as apposed to sluggish when just driving around lightly?

But then again. it could just be common heatsoak if you WOT then drive it normally im sure the heat has soaked through everything by then which could cause your bogging.

The hesitation thing everyone is talking about is when around 3k the motor seems to trip over itself for a brief moment.
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Old 08-23-2008, 02:17 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks a lot for the info Vinuneuro... Will try this out today...

I was just wondering if there's any way to totally disable the EGR system...as in if i dont want any exhaust gas to be re-circulated, and if there's gonna be any problem if i disable it. Btw, I reside in a place where there's no emission control rules
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Old 08-23-2008, 02:33 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Without running my tests, i think you are headed in the right direction. Does it still feel sluggish if you WOT it while its warmed up as apposed to sluggish when just driving around lightly?

But then again. it could just be common heatsoak if you WOT then drive it normally im sure the heat has soaked through everything by then which could cause your bogging.

The hesitation thing everyone is talking about is when around 3k the motor seems to trip over itself for a brief moment.
When it starts feeling sluggish, it does so no matter how i drive it

I am a bit confused regarding whether the sluggishness i am facing is the same as so many others in this forum, bt i will try the EGR port cleaning first since disconnecting the EGR soleniod harness caused it to run well for the last 3 days. I will also reset the ECU and see if any change occurs.

The sluggishness i am talkin abt is horrible ....when the sluggishness activates, i feel like someone's pullin me back / i am drivin a 1.3 liter car :S....and strangely, if i turn ignition off while rolling, and then turn it on again, the problem seems to disappear for some time. However, it has not happened so far after disconnecting the EGR solenoid harness.....Will update u guyz after cleaning the EGR.
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Old 08-23-2008, 04:03 AM   #10 (permalink)
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^ That will only work if he has those removable plugs and not a spot weld.
Cr*p! mine has spot welds instead of plugs... now what?
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H22 VTEC lude becomes sluggish and bogs when it gets heated up!! Plz Help!!-dsc00015.jpg  
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1995 JDM (BB4) Prelude Si VTEC (H22a)
1990 EE90 Toyota Sprinter LX (5AFE)

1998 AE111 Toyota Sprinter GT (4AGE) - Sold
1999 EP91 Toyota Glanza V (4EFTE) - Sold
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Old 08-23-2008, 09:10 AM   #11 (permalink)
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As long as you don't have a '96 4th gen, then you can buy or make an EGR block off plate since OBDI doesn't check for flow through the EGR - only that the valve is functioning (hence the CEL when it is unplugged).
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Old 08-24-2008, 12:37 AM   #12 (permalink)
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As long as you don't have a '96 4th gen, then you can buy or make an EGR block off plate since OBDI doesn't check for flow through the EGR - only that the valve is functioning (hence the CEL when it is unplugged).
Thanks G-loc...will try so. Can u post any pic / info on where and how to place the EGR blockoff plate? Would be bery helpful.
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1995 JDM (BB4) Prelude Si VTEC (H22a)
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1998 AE111 Toyota Sprinter GT (4AGE) - Sold
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Old 10-05-2008, 10:51 AM   #13 (permalink)
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i had similar symptoms, try testing/replacing TPS...
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Old 01-04-2009, 01:40 PM   #14 (permalink)
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^ That will only work if he has those removable plugs and not a spot weld.
Mine are welded. Is my only choice to get a new manifold?
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Old 01-04-2009, 02:00 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks G-loc...will try so. Can u post any pic / info on where and how to place the EGR blockoff plate? Would be bery helpful.

Just unbolt the egr and make a blockoff plate in the same shape as the surface where the egr mates to the intake manifold. Then just replace the egr with the blockoff inbetween it and the manifold.
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Old 01-06-2009, 07:10 AM   #16 (permalink)
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No you can still clean the ports, just but be careful when your doing it. I did mine a couple months back. I started off doing it on the car then decided to yank the IM off. I drilled through the welds until i was all the way through. Cleaned it out then put the plugs that i got from honda back in along with JB weld on top of that.

Runs great now.
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Old 01-06-2009, 04:04 PM   #17 (permalink)
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hmm...mine was similar to that hesitation problem too. Lets see, my problem was, its perfectly normal driving when the car started, but after a min or so when it warmed up, it feels like its losing power (vtec still works during this hesitation) What worked for me was, my cousin had an extra JDM p13 ECU and i ended up switching mine out to test it. It solved the problem. Then a friend looked inside the broken ECU and found a burnt little micro chip thing (i dont know what its called) but he re-solder it and now it works fine.
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