fron caliper piston wont go back in - Honda Prelude Forum

blue92ludesi · 08-13-2005, 02:03 AM

hey all, this is rather strange, so im liek ok lets change break pads really quick.

really quick my ass, im sittn there tightening the C clamp, but whats this, the thing doesnt go in any further, im like hmm, after about 30 mins i get so frustrated i even crack the bleeder line on the caliper, tried again, no go, i was steaming.

i pushed the caliper out completely, took the break line off, and inspected the inside of the caliper.

lots of dirt in there i might add, so i took out the piston, cleaned it, took the caliper itself, cleaned the inside. but now i have a problem, the rubber seal in there, is somehow attached to the caliper. like its tugged into a tiny slit. well it came out on part of the sides. so now im stuck, i dont think its safe to reinstall everything.

after some fiddeling and pushing i did get the piston back in, not sure what keept it from going in the first place. maybe build up, who knows. but now im more concerned with fixing that rubber seal.

any suggestions?

blue92ludesi · 08-13-2005, 03:22 AM

well, the rubber boot is ripped, so im gonna have to go to the part store tomorrow, and get a new one, and rebuild my caliper. YAY fun lol i heard thats a real ***** to get them seals back in there. any tips?

Also, the prelude helms states that the Break Beeding Order is:

RR LF LR RF

do they mean:

Right Rear
Left Frong
Left Rear
Right Front

if this is the case then thas weird since usually i thought u start with the caliper furthest away from the master, and work yourself closer.

so that would be,

Right Rear
Left Rear
Right Front
Left Front

(Left=Driver) (Right=Passenger)

red92s · 08-13-2005, 07:15 AM

The hard part about getting the piston/boot back together is getting the piston to go back through the boot once you've installed the boot into the caliper. A lot of people say you can make this easier by blowing some air through the bleed nipple with an air compressor. Since I didnt have air handy when I rebuilt mine, this is what I did, nad found it to work pretty well:

- lube piston and boot with clean brake fluid
- slide boot over piston BEFORE installing boot into caliper
- slide boot all the way to the bottom edge of piston
- use pick to seat boot into caliper grooves
- carefully push piston down through boot and into caliper

95_5speed · 08-13-2005, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blue92ludesi

Also, the prelude helms states that the Break Beeding Order is:

RR LF LR RF

do they mean:

Right Rear
Left Frong

Left frong, Ill have to double check on that one i didnt know our cars were so equipped! J/k man

a C clamp didnt work?

blue92ludesi · 08-13-2005, 11:07 AM

nope, i took the caliper apart, alot of sut in there. gtta rebuild it now, i ordered the seal and the dust boot.

95_5speed · 08-13-2005, 11:21 AM

I haven't ever rebuily a caliper, I hope you have sucess and get it all straightned out.. being with out a car for any amount of time sucks!

My fronts were hard to press in, but I put them back onto the old rotors and used a screw driver with lots of leverage, to shove the piston back in there. I don't usually do that because I busted 2 screw drivers years ago.. but This time I replaced all my rotors and pads so it was all good.

(you change the rear pads? haha.. using that square key to twist the rear piston back in is a pain to keep it locked in! )

blue92ludesi · 08-13-2005, 11:45 AM

actually the rear is quite easy, i have the cube, and used a socket lol, was a piece of cake.

but the front never has been this much of a *****.

but im goin to get the boot and the o ring right now. then im gonna clean the caliper inside. and install the new seal, and the boot, the boot is a ***** and a half due to the fact that u gtta slip it in a tiny tiny ass crack LOL anyone who has ever done it know what a fun job that is.

i guess i wont be goin to the races tnight, LOL

but ill keep you guys updated
ill see if i can get ahold of a digi and take some pix

95_5speed · 08-13-2005, 12:10 PM

yes, indeed photos are great

(about the rear square tool, i just couldn't do the left rear because im not left handed, so turning it was funy trying to get coordinated, lol)

tiny ass crack, haha! ~ Brett

blue92ludesi · 08-13-2005, 02:41 PM

well i went to the part store, got my new seals, and now i gtta go chill with my girl for a little while, ill get back on the project aroudn 9ish, i sanded the piston a little *2000 grit* to get the sut off, and as well as the inside of the cylinder, didnt feel like buying a hone for that one thing, so im just gonna sandpaper it.

the only problem is there is like hard debrees liek looks liek rust, brown ****, in the little crack where the boot is supposed to go into, thats why it poped out in the 1st place. so what im gonna do is scrape all that crap out. and then once its all clean, reinstall everything.

ill keep updated.

blue92ludesi · 08-14-2005, 11:39 AM

UPDATE!!

well guys, its worse then i thought, the piston itself has scars in it, like what looks like corrosion holes. so the seal ring isnt making a good seal, which in turn wont let the caliper hold pressure. it keeps sucking air back through the system.

so now i gtta either get a whole new caliper, or if i can find it a rebuilt kit, with a new piston.

unfortunately nobody has one in stock, and takes leik 4 days to ship. so i might have to ebrake it to work the next few days. SUCKS

red92s · 08-14-2005, 04:30 PM

I have a set of front calipers I'll sell you

TruNinja619 · 08-14-2005, 08:25 PM

This may be a good excuse for you to do the NSX/Legend caliper swap.....

if you don't want to go that route... buy a pair of rebuilt calipers for the fronts instead of trying to rebuild a caliper w/ new hardware... just a waste of time imo to rebuild one....

blue92ludesi · 08-14-2005, 11:21 PM

well guys, i bled all 4 calipers, and i still dont get any pressure, i can pump away all day long at the pedal, with the system closed, and i wont get pressure it just keeps goin and goin and goin, all day long, what seems to be the problem, could the master cylinder need bleeding since it ran dry?

and if so....how?