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Old 09-07-2010, 12:19 AM   #1 (permalink)
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finish h22 swap but wont start. help me please

ok i just finish swapping but it wont start. like i have done everything necessary to run it. (i hope)

i assuming its a starter problem. because whlen i try to start it, i hear clicking noise from the starter.
its not the battery cause i got a brand new battery.
and also i used internal coil for the distrubutor. idk if that will affect it or not.
help me out guys
thanks
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Old 09-07-2010, 10:01 AM   #2 (permalink)
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if you used the internal coil and rewired it, then it should work.

if it's clicking, then it's the starter. hit it with a hammer or something to try and knock the solenoid loose.
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Old 09-07-2010, 10:22 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Take the starter off and get it tested free at a autopart store such as autozone or something like that, if the hammer thing doesn't work. If it test good move on down the line.
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Old 09-07-2010, 01:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jsmooney View Post
if you used the internal coil and rewired it, then it should work.

if it's clicking, then it's the starter. hit it with a hammer or something to try and knock the solenoid loose.
Yeah we use internal coil but idk if it's wired right.
Do you have an idea?
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Old 09-07-2010, 01:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Take the starter off and get it tested free at a autopart store such as autozone or something like that, if the hammer thing doesn't work. If it test good move on down the line.
Ok I will do that today.
And If it isn't the starter what would next to test out?
Can't be battery cause it's brand new
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Old 09-07-2010, 01:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Your not gonna know if that coil is working untill you get that starter cranking. If it test good then i would start testing the positive cable that goes to it and the ignition switch wire. The path is straight forward from there, left or right and follow the road.
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Old 09-07-2010, 02:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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it COULD also be a loose battery connection to the chassis - tight enough to make contact, but when the current flows, the connection "pops" loose....I've have that problem before

swap out starters
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Old 09-07-2010, 04:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Your not gonna know if that coil is working untill you get that starter cranking. If it test good then i would start testing the positive cable that goes to it and the ignition switch wire. The path is straight forward from there, left or right and follow the road.
ok so the battery has the two ground wire. the one from the positive goes to the starter, and than the one from the negative goes where? any where there is metal right?
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Old 09-07-2010, 04:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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it COULD also be a loose battery connection to the chassis - tight enough to make contact, but when the current flows, the connection "pops" loose....I've have that problem before

swap out starters
ok so i test the starters and it pass at autozone.

one of the ground wire that comes from the positive terminal goes to the starter itself, i do not know where to wired the other ground wire coming from the negative terminal.
should i just ground the wire coming from the negative terminal?
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Old 09-07-2010, 05:29 PM   #10 (permalink)
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the car normally has two ground wire - BOTH go from the NEG terminal on the battery. One connects to the radiator support near the battery on the left side. The other connects to the hook-like think on the front of the transmission. It may have another coming from the fuse box, I'm not sure.

The car also generally has two Positive wires - both going from the positive terminal on the battery. one wire goes to the starter, and then one goes up to the fusebox
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Old 09-07-2010, 05:39 PM   #11 (permalink)
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the car normally has two ground wire - BOTH go from the NEG terminal on the battery. One connects to the radiator support near the battery on the left side. The other connects to the hook-like think on the front of the transmission. It may have another coming from the fuse box, I'm not sure.

The car also generally has two Positive wires - both going from the positive terminal on the battery. one wire goes to the starter, and then one goes up to the fusebox
thank you
i will do that right away.
also would u happen to know anything about the gas pedal being REALLY REALLY HARD TO PRESS DOWN AND STIFF
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Old 09-07-2010, 10:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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GUYS I GOT IT!!!!!!!
**** it was the ****en distrubutor that kept it from firing up.
the distrubutor was ****ed up so after i swap it out than bam it fired right up!!
thanks for the info on where to ground the wired also. i ground it somewhere on the tranny and it work too.

however the throttle line to the gas pedal got stuck, so my friends and i had to yank it out to loosen the gas pedal.
after we yank it out than when i step on the gas pedal the throttle line wire grinds on the firewall which sucks!!
if you guys have any advice on how to make it smoot than let me know
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Old 09-08-2010, 02:21 PM   #13 (permalink)
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is the throttle cable twisted in any way? take it off, stretch it out (well, not stretch, but straighten it out and make sure it's not twisted)

did you use the TB from the H23 or the H22? If it's just hard to press, then it may just need some lube
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Old 09-08-2010, 04:05 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jsmooney View Post
is the throttle cable twisted in any way? take it off, stretch it out (well, not stretch, but straighten it out and make sure it's not twisted)

did you use the TB from the H23 or the H22? If it's just hard to press, then it may just need some lube
i used the h23 TB
and what part do i lube?
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