ok so my head gaskets shot and ive been meaning to swap the motor neway so fk it ...im gunna finally go ahead with the swap.... now ima noob to this.....so theres a local spot called jdmenginezone.com that im probably gunna get the motor from and use my stock tranny and have this local spot do the swap for me.....
P13 and if the motor at least comes with a RHD wiring harness it will make it easier so that you can rob the knock sensor plug, vtec spool valve plug and vtec oil pressure switch plug from it and add them to your harness. I also too was going to use my M2S4 trans but since I was swapping the motor I figured why not get one better suited for the engine, something else to consider, knock it all out at once. I'd also do a full tune up to the new engine, plugs, wires, water pump, timing belt, rear main seal and a manual tensioner conversion, you don't want your new engine to have it's T-belt snap and have bent valves do you? I'm not sure if the F22 fuel rail will work either but you could get a H23a1 rail for cheap and it would work because the H22a will have the fuel hose inlet on the other side for RHD. Post any more Q's you might have, I just did this swap recently myself in my dad's shop after hours.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
whats the difference between the p28 and p13 ecu because 2 guys on the other forum said p28...?
i think im just gunna stick with the stock tranny right now ...its just gunna be my daily so i dont need anything crazy....the only things im considering are the water pump and timing belt and maybe an 8 lb fidanza fly wheel <-- does it make a big difference?
I wouldn't bother with a frankenstein engine swap if it's just a daily driver. The p28 is great for a modded H22a that uses a different intake mani because it WONT control the IAB's so if your just keeping it stock it wont be ideal. You can however use the GSR p72 and it will control the IAB's as well as having a knock board which the p28 does not. The p28 and p72 will also need a basemap to run the engine, best to just try and find a p13 for now, specifically a JDM one. I installed that flywheel with the swap and never drove the car with the stock flywheel so I can't really say much about the difference. If you keep the hydraulic auto tensionser for the timing belt it WILL need to be replaced every time you change the belt, yet another reason to switch to the manual. If you google manual tensioner conversion kit for H22 you can get some sites that sell a package of OEM parts at a good price to do the conversion.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
I wouldn't bother with a frankenstein engine swap if it's just a daily driver. The p28 is great for a modded H22a that uses a different intake mani because it WONT control the IAB's so if your just keeping it stock it wont be ideal. You can however use the GSR p72 and it will control the IAB's as well as having a knock board which the p28 does not. The p28 and p72 will also need a basemap to run the engine, best to just try and find a p13 for now, specifically a JDM one. I installed that flywheel with the swap and never drove the car with the stock flywheel so I can't really say much about the difference. If you keep the hydraulic auto tensionser for the timing belt it WILL need to be replaced every time you change the belt, yet another reason to switch to the manual. If you google manual tensioner conversion kit for H22 you can get some sites that sell a package of OEM parts at a good price to do the conversion.
im really HOPING i can stay pretty stock for the most part but the modding bug usually hits me hard but hopefully i can fight it this time lol...but neway...so if i plan on staying pretty stock -> go with the p13 ecu, right?
good price? and in the description it says for "highly modified/race" engines which mine WONT be so is it something ill still need?...n youre saying im gunna need to change that out if i change the timing belt? sorry if im a little confused lol
The stock H22a uses a automatic tensioner for the timing belt and if you don't convert you'll have to replace it every time you do the timing belt, manual tensioner is a one time thing. Auto tensioner is also known for failure as well especially with an upgraded valve train. Oh and yes, p13 would be best if keeping it stock, at least for now.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
The stock H22a uses a automatic tensioner for the timing belt and if you don't convert you'll have to replace it every time you do the timing belt, manual tensioner is a one time thing. Auto tensioner is also known for failure as well especially with an upgraded valve train. Oh and yes, p13 would be best if keeping it stock, at least for now.
ok cool thanks so p13 for now.....and as for the manual belt tensioner, do the timing belts go really often on these cars or something?
Well it is said that the tensioner is to blame but it is recommended by Honda to replace the auto tensioner with every timing belt change and for some reason I don't think people always do. The auto tensioner would need to be replaced on this motor when before you swap so why not just convert to manual and never have to worry about it again?
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
Well it is said that the tensioner is to blame but it is recommended by Honda to replace the auto tensioner with every timing belt change and for some reason I don't think people always do. The auto tensioner would need to be replaced on this motor when before you swap so why not just convert to manual and never have to worry about it again?
ooohhh the tensioner would have to be replace for the swap regardless? if thats the case, then yea ill def go with the manual....but i didnt know i had to change that...
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