DYI: rust! - Honda Prelude Forum - Prelude Online.com
Honda Prelude Forum Honda Prelude Forum Header Right
» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
» Wheel & Tire Center

» Log in
User Name:

Password:

Not a member yet?
Register Now!
Go Back   Honda Prelude Forum - Prelude Online.com > Honda Prelude Discussion > Fourth Gen Prelude Discussion
Register Home Forum Active Topics Photo Gallery Mark Forums Read Advertise

PreludeOnline.com is the premier Honda Prelude Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 01-13-2004, 04:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
Supporting Member
finding my place.........
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 805
iTrader: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
DYI: rust!

Well i know 90-93 Accords all have this rust spot, and i heard 4th gen ludes do too. So here's a sweet write up on it

Well this is a common problem on cb7's, figure i'd post it up for myself to use and maybe other people that have a similiar problem.
Look at the end result :shock:

Introduction: If you own a 4th generation accord, chances are ? you?ve got the typical rust areas right at the meeting point of your rear bumper and rear quarter panel. Now this rust might not be characteristic of ALL cb7s; but i?ve always noticed at least a little on most that I?ve seen. I was one of the unlucky cb7 owners. I had some pretty ugly quarter panel rust:

It looked like that on both sides. You can tell that I ignored it and tried to hide it with spray paint; but before long - it started to bubble and crack my disguise. I remember taking my accord to a car show at my local raceway last july. The judges almost made a complete 360 degree rotation around my car when they stopped at the rust spot. I remember seeing one of the judges point at the rust and lean over to his partner. His partner said ? ?is that rust?... looks like rust?, and he answered with an assertive ?yeeup?. So I came to the conclusion that ? you can spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on oversized wheels and body kits? but the body damage is the first thing that people will notice (especially judges!). That is what will hurt you when it comes to showing your car or just enjoying your car?s appearance in general. So I decided to do something about my rust areas? and you can too!

Tool List (most can be found at lowes/home depot): electric power drill, grinding disc, 60 grit paper for the disc, 3? wire wheel brush, masking tape, bondo body filler, body file, wire brush, bottle of rust neutralizer, sponge brush, chaulking, plastic spreader (to apply the bondo mix), block sander, 220 & 320 grit sandpaper, undercoating spray, primer, duplicolor auto spray paint for your color accord, clearcoat (optional), and of course? safety goggles, face masks, paper towels, and plenty of old newspapers to protect the good paint of the rest of the car!

(not all tools shown below)



Estimated Cost of Project: Assuming you have a power drill already? somewhere near 100.00. Might seem like a pretty pricey DIY ? but it?s nothing when compared to having a body shop do the work for you. I had my rust repair quoted at a body shop before attempting this DIY. They gave me the price estimate of 750.00 for both sides! See they actually cut out that bad piece of rusted metal and weld in a new piece. They do a bunch of extra stuff that cranks up the benjamins. It?s not necessary. In this DIY, I will show you how to remove all of your dead rust, prevent the rust from reoccurring, and re-construct your rear quarter panel(s) to look like new. Here?s all you need to know?

Steps:

1. Starting on either side (or you might only have rust on one quarter panel to begin with), unscrew the bolts (3) holding the rear bumper to the quarter panel. There should be a little black clip that you must remove. Place a block of wood in between the bumper and the quarter panel. You don?t want that rear bumper getting in the way of your work!



2. Remove the black trim molding that lines your fender.

3. Using masking tape ? tape off the surrounding area of your rust damage.

4. Attach the grinding disc (with 60 grit paper) to your power drill. Holding the disc at a slight angle, press down firmly on the drill and grind away as much of the rust as possible. Also grind away any rust on the inside of the quarter panel! It's extremely important to wear your goggles. Lose an eye, and you can kiss those Auto X dreams goodbye! lol.

What the spot should look like after using the grinding disc:

5. Next, insert the wire wheel into your drill. This will help remove even more of that rust. Use the wire wheel in pretty much the same way that you used the grinding disc. The only difference, is that the wire wheel will help you get up underneath your paint, behind the rust spot, and in all of the other hard to reach areas (that the disc couldn?t reach). It?s also more tough on the rust in general. If the grinding disc didn?t get it all ? the wire wheel will! Its extremely important to wear your goggles.
lude2lust is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-13-2004, 04:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
Supporting Member
finding my place.........
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 805
iTrader: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
6. After you?ve gotten rid of all of the rust, you?ll need to neutralize the metal so that there won?t be any reoccurring rust problems in the future. To do this, apply some rust neutralizer solution to a sponge brush and dab the whole area on ALL sides of the rust spot. Let it sit until dry.


A type of rust neutralizer: http://www.krylon.com/product/cl_pr...l.asp?sgID=CL16

7. Depending on the severity of your rust, you may have to rebuild part of the quarter panel. You will notice that I had lost a good portion on the lower part. I had to fabricate a piece of metal to re-construct the edge of my quarter panel. If you look in some of the above pictures, you will notice that there is a big hole where the bottom of your quarter panel used to be (the part that meets up with the top of the bumper). I would suggest using a piece of tin or aluminum. Use metal that is thin and can be easily cut and shaped with a pair of tin snips and pliers. Once you?ve customized your piece, fit it into place and use pop rivets or some form of epoxy to hold the metal piece in place. each person will have to fabricate a unique piece depending on their situation.

sorry, I do NOT have photos of this process.

8. You will note that there is some original chaulking between the quarter panel and the inner metal. I believe that there was not enough chaulking which allowed water to enter this area causing the rust. Therefore I recommend putting additional chaulking in this area. So, fill in the space between the two pieces of metal and let this chaulking harden.

9. Now it?s time to start the bondo?ing (yes I made that word up). First you will need to mix together your bondo and hardener according to the directions. Go easy on how much hardener you add, the more hardener ? the faster it dries!

10. Spread the bondo evenly over the entire area (including the inside of the quarter panel/fender). Be sure to cover the area completely.

11. Let the body filler dry to the touch.

12. Knock the high spots from the body filler with your body file.

13. Check frequently with your hand for high and low spots. If you wind up with low spots, you may have to apply another layer of bondo.

14. When the bondo is fully dry, block sand the entire area with 220 and 320 grit sand paper (respectively). Get the area completely smooth and flush with the rest of the paint on the quarter panel. You should be able to close your eyes and not be able to tell where the bondo?ed area ends and where the (dull-feeling) white paint begins.

When you?ve completed bondo?ing and block sanding the entire area, it should look like this:
lude2lust is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2004, 04:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
Supporting Member
finding my place.........
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 805
iTrader: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
15. Now, prime the entire area with spray primer (don?t forget the inside/bottom of the fender)! Allow time for the primer to dry. I used white primer color


The finished repair ready for the final paint coat. Note that the primer has covered the whole area, even the sanding marks:

oh yeah, it?s all comin? together now

16. You?re almost done. However, before you apply your final coat of paint you should consider spraying undercoating inside of the wheel well. The undercoating will protect all of the metal that you might have exposed while working on the rust. This will further help prevent any rust from occuring.

17. Now you?re ready for your final coat of paint! I used Duplicolor brand, which was a very accurate color match. Spray in a sweeping motion 8-12? away from the quarter panel. 2-3 light, even coats should be enough. Try to do your best in blending the oem paint with the duplicolor paint. Allow a few hours to dry? the Duplicolor instructions recommend 24 hours for best results.


* You can also spray on some clearcoat for added shine/texture.

Don?t forget to give your car a good wash and waxing. This will buff out the primer/paint overspray that might have gotten on your good oem paint.

* This will work for other types of rust as well, but it?s not as specific as it is for the typical quarter panel type.

This might not be AS professional as a 750.00 job, but it?s a LOT more economical ? and it looks 100x better than that nasty rust!!
lude2lust is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2004, 05:06 PM   #4 (permalink)
BAN PO NOOBS!!
 
j_t_heilbrun's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 922
iTrader: (1)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
WOW that came out great. When I saw what you were starting with I thought this is gonna look like crap. But you did an great job. The only thing I would be worried about is the amount of filler you used. It may be to thick and start to shrink, causing it to crack. But once again great job and good luck.
__________________


You have the right to free speech, as long as your not dumb enough to actually try it.
j_t_heilbrun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2004, 05:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
Supporting Member
finding my place.........
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 805
iTrader: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
ah it was a friend who did it, i have to do it when i come home on break. Luckily i only have the spot on one side! but its just about as bad as his.
lude2lust is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2004, 06:23 PM   #6 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Orlando/UCF
Posts: 263
iTrader: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
good job, that looks amazing!! i would have never been able to tell.
__________________
nbn22385 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2004, 06:44 AM   #7 (permalink)
Supporting Member
PreludeOnline Premium Member
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Caraquet/Moncton, NB, Canada
Posts: 1,331
iTrader: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
FAQ this!!
Forbidden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2004, 08:25 AM   #8 (permalink)
Supporting Member
PreludeOnline Premium Member
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: oil city, pa
Posts: 24
iTrader: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
i pretty much did this exact procedure to my 1st gen integra. mine was a bit more involved though. the rust started where his did but continued around the wheel well and underneath the door all the way to the front wheel (both sides). i must have used about 50 ft of aluminum flashing before i was done.

one suggestion i would like to make. while this does work, and can look pretty good if you take your time, it most likely will not last forever. the best solution, if you can afford it, is to have the rust cut out and replace the sheet metal. i gotta give him credit though, damn good write-up.
fiendracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2004, 08:26 AM   #9 (permalink)
Supporting Member
PreludeOnline Premium Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,354
iTrader: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
yep, this def deserves a FAQ. i recently did my rear quarter panels for $600 for both sides. but they did a PERFECT job. my rust was so bad, that it really ate through my fender and i would have to reconstruct a lot of the fender which i wouldnt rather not do. i could poke holes in my fender... lol. i might do this for my sunroof though. since my sunroof is starting to rust.

i wonder how long this write-ups accord body work is gonna last till the bondo starts crackin or messin up. i bet its very noticeable in real life. i say do it once, and do it right and invest the money in a body shop unless your strapped for cash or gonna sell the car soon or just dont care. but he did do a great job. and hes right, it still looks A LOT better then that nasty rust.

GREAT WRITE-UP!

Last edited by MidNiteMysT; 01-14-2004 at 08:31 AM.
MidNiteMysT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2004, 10:21 AM   #10 (permalink)
Supporting Member
PreludeOnline Premium Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,180
iTrader: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I nominate a faq also ..

One question, on that section on our cars (4gen prelude anyways) there's a bolt going up under the affected area pictured above that holds the bumper to the quarter panel, if that is all filled in with bondo ... how do you bolt it up ? or is there something im missing?

It's around the bolt that it is rusted out on my car ...

nice work though, looks awesome how it came out
__________________
yohan420 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2004, 02:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
Supporting Member
PreludeOnline Premium Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Dearborn, MI
Posts: 546
iTrader: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
this is great. only if I had courage, time, and patience, I would try it on my car.
FullyLudedSi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2004, 02:50 PM   #12 (permalink)
Supporting Member
I'm a GIRL!
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 754
iTrader: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
FAQ FAQ FAQ FAQ!!

T
__________________
.:.Theresa.:.

2003 Suzuki GSXR 600 Alstare SOLD 08/14/05
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4 V8 with ALL the goodies
1994 Prelude VTEC SOLD 12/21/04
CrazieLude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2004, 02:57 PM   #13 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Maryland
Posts: 605
iTrader: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
AMAZING !!

FAQ 4 Sure
__________________
MDPC - the COOLEST LUDE CLUB.

2000 TURBO LUDE - SOLD
2004 Accord - SOLD
1991 240SX - SOLD
2005 - WRX STI
Initial Lude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2004, 03:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
Supporting Member
finding my place.........
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 805
iTrader: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
well i would go the professional route, but thats something that i can't afford. For one side, honda quoted $923.00
So go figure, this way is much cheaper, and i'll sell my car in a year or two before i have to deal with it again lol.

So do 4th gen ludes have this
lude2lust is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Honda Prelude Forum - Prelude Online.com > Honda Prelude Discussion > Fourth Gen Prelude Discussion


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:38 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.3.2