Just this weeken I went up to chicago for HIN and on the way there close to my friends house i noticed this whistling noise from my engine and figured and inspected it and noticed that it was the distributor rotor. So i bought new rotor and cap anyway cause its not that much money, got it from NAPA. And so when i took the cap off i saw that the inner cover for the distributor (that covers the wiring) was cracked and not tightly fitted against the distributor any more. So i tryed to glue it on and then i put the new parts on and drove back to my college apt 130 miles away and there was no problems. Then when i came in to town i came into this gas station and didnt get a good angle coming up the drive way and bottom out the car and it hit pretty hard, from that it seem to do something cause the check engine light came on and the distributor rotor started whistling again and the car seemed to be lagging from the dist not sending good sparks to all cylinders, so i took that inner cover off and still have the same problem, What should I do?
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Black 93 SI CAI/H/E, AEM CAM gears, jacobselectronics wires, 2.5" drop (sprint springs, kyb shocks), neuspeed front upper strut tower bar, no name rear strut tower bar, chrome dc sports lower rear tie bar, thermal R&D exhaust, DC Header. 17's currently with dunlap sp901's.
What type of noise is your distributor making? If it sounds like a chirping, or squeeking sound, your bearings are gone, and you'll have to get a new distributor. If a check engine light came one, it is very likely that you damaged some of the sensors in the distributor (TDC or CAS) The ICM doesn't throw a code. A bad bearing will cause excessive heat in the distributor, which will cause those sensors to fail (including the ICM). If you damaged any of these sensors, you'll also need to buy a new distributor (or pull the sensors out of a junked distributor) as you can't buy the sensors seperately. That plastic cover is supposed to be loose. That shouldn't have anything to do with your problem. You can find out if the bearing is bad simply by pulling the entire distributor off (3 12 mm bolts) and checking to see how well it spins. It should spin freely and you should feel slight "clicks" as it spins. Good luck.
It is a squeeking sound and the check engine light came on. I did a diagnosis with the check engine light blinking thing and I got code 9 which is no. 1 cylinder position (cyp) sensor, which is a sensor in the distributor. Anyways the squeeking comes and then the engine misfires which gives the laging shaking of the car with the check engine light on, the other half of the time the check engine light is off and all is fine no misfiring. I guess after 11 years something had to go wrong with my honda
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Black 93 SI CAI/H/E, AEM CAM gears, jacobselectronics wires, 2.5" drop (sprint springs, kyb shocks), neuspeed front upper strut tower bar, no name rear strut tower bar, chrome dc sports lower rear tie bar, thermal R&D exhaust, DC Header. 17's currently with dunlap sp901's.
yeah man .. do a search, a while back I had the same thing... time for a new distributor.
Its the actual bearrings in your distributor .. I got a CEL and the car bogged funny.. the CPS (cylinder positin sensor) is in the distributor ...
The dust is the spun bearrings erroding inside the distrib. Your looking at a couple hundred I think, new it was $300 CDN. I was lucky to find a used one for $200CDN..
make sure you pay attention to where the present one is bolted on so you can put the replacement one on within the same timing spectrum.
there was some other parts I hope I dont need
IGNITER UNIT KIT
SINK, HEAT
IGNITER UNIT ASSY.
Hope to just buy HOUSING, DISTRIBUTOR
part 5 and 7 the o ring, I hope its more than just a housing?
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Black 93 SI CAI/H/E, AEM CAM gears, jacobselectronics wires, 2.5" drop (sprint springs, kyb shocks), neuspeed front upper strut tower bar, no name rear strut tower bar, chrome dc sports lower rear tie bar, thermal R&D exhaust, DC Header. 17's currently with dunlap sp901's.
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