Well my distributor is making a rattling noise... and I'm thinking it's probably a bearing. I'm not gonna drive it anymore until I can figure out exactly what it is. The noise happens at around 1500 rpm... I can really hear it when it's idling on cold mornings. Once it drops down to normal idle I can't hear it anymore. If I hit the throttle and then let off... it rattles as the rpm's are coming back down. I also noticed that it gets warm as soon as I start the car... not hot... just warm. I took my dist. cap off to just look in there quick... it looks real clean... the rotor looks alright and the contacts look fine. I am going to take off the distributor on saturday and tear it apart to see what I can find. Anyone have any tips? Things I should be looking for? What it could be? Thanks a lot.
dont drive it too much or the exhaust cam could lock up, possibly bending some valves and causing the timing belt to jump a few teeth.
as for it getting warm when you start the car... what gets warm, the cap or the metal part attached to the block? if the bearings are bad, i could see how the additional friction is causing it to warm up faster than it normally would. how long had the car been off previous to you turning it on and feeling it? stuff in the engine bay stays warm for a few hours
I had the same problem about 2 years ago. It's a bearing that get stuck somehow in the distributor. My mechanic changed the bearing and it's been running fine since. It was around 200$CDN for the bearing and labor, not bad compared to the 400$CDN price of a new distributor.
Originally posted by Forbidden I had the same problem about 2 years ago. It's a bearing that get stuck somehow in the distributor. My mechanic changed the bearing and it's been running fine since. It was around 200$CDN for the bearing and labor, not bad compared to the 400$CDN price of a new distributor.
doesn't the bearing have to come in/out with a press?
Mine has been doing this since I bought the car. It bugs the heck out of me as it happens right at 2000 rpm. I am worried now. I swapped my distributor with another one a while ago and it did not go away. Is there a bearing on the end of the exhaust cam that could be bad? How bad would it be to change it?
The car had been off for at least 24 hours... so it wasn't still warm. It was the metal part...not the cap... that got warm. My car has 69k miles on it. I know the distributor is easy to get off and on... but how hard is the bearing to replace? Does honda sell like a rebuild kit... or just the bearing.. or what? And is the bearing IN the distributor... or is it between the distributor and the exhaust camshaft like where the pic that MR. CLIFFORD posted. Thanks a lot.
Originally posted by grlielude I need a new distributor as well, but the honda dealer near me told me 600 for a new one!!
anyone know where I can get one cheaper?
I can get you a good deal on one from honda. 300 should be the price. It is in KS so shouldn't take very long to get it to you. Just let me know if you want me to check it out.
doesn't the bearing have to come in/out with a press?
I have no idea, it's my mechanic who did the work cause that was when I was totally ignorant about cars, well maybe not totally but I wasn't in doing my own work on the car yet
Well I talked to Honda... They wanted $330 for the housing. i said screw that. They said you couldn't just replace the bearing. So I got one online, cap rotor ignitor etc. all included for $220 overnighted, brand new, and a 1 year warranty. It won't ship til monday... so I'll be able to do the swap on tuesday. I hope it fixes my problem.
Originally posted by XLerate9 Well I talked to Honda... They wanted $330 for the housing. i said screw that. They said you couldn't just replace the bearing. So I got one online, cap rotor ignitor etc. all included for $220 overnighted, brand new, and a 1 year warranty. It won't ship til monday... so I'll be able to do the swap on tuesday. I hope it fixes my problem.
sounds good!
btw my 92Si needed a new distributor around 95,000 miles.
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I was thinkin... Since I'm gonna replace it anyway... I figured I might as well advance the timing a few degrees. That should give me a little more low end power right? I know it works on older cars... and I would think it would work on any car with a distributor.. I was thinkin maybe 2-3 degrees. Any wisdom about this?
Originally posted by XLerate9 I was thinkin... Since I'm gonna replace it anyway... I figured I might as well advance the timing a few degrees. That should give me a little more low end power right? I know it works on older cars... and I would think it would work on any car with a distributor.. I was thinkin maybe 2-3 degrees. Any wisdom about this?
it will work with OBDI
I went to 17 and haven't had any problems. Felt a little more throttle response.
i only run advanced timing when i go to the track. i throw it allll the way advanced. but i put it back when im done. i wouldnt run it adv, but thats just cause it doesnt help all that much unless its all the way.
if youre going to do it just keep and ear open for pinging, and go ahead and use 93 oct at least. when i advance mine, i put 93oct in the tank along with octane boost.
__________________
from the age of uniformity,
from the age of solitude,
from the age of Big Brother,
from the age of doublethink—greetings!
I just went with 17. Helms says 15+- 2 degrees so I'm still in stock specs... just at the advanced end of it.
It turns out that my distributor wasn't what was making the noise anyway. I still replaced it... a little general maintenance never hurt. As for the noise... I'm not sure what it is. It sounds like maybe a loose lifter?? I just adjusted my valves like 4k miles ago... I don't know what's goin on... GRRRR
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