Dealership says Scrap i said KNOCK!! ADVICE PLZ - Honda Prelude Forum

Blackout Trap · 02-22-2011, 06:51 AM

So my Prelude Si blown its motor 1 year ago i found a H22A4 i swapped it and half assed it for my first swap i got everything to run but it wasn't running right.....did some research and found out it was my Knock but my the honda service center said that i need the right harness so now i'm think that the H23 harness isn't working and plugged alittle off

so now i'm just planning on giving them my H22A4 HARNESS and going to start from scratch and waste my money. I just wanna know what esle i need to make this Harness work to make it run RIGHT!!!!!! i'm using a obd1 h22 ecu

do i need a ecu jumper, obd2 dizzy, or new ECU
Or any ADVICE for my current problem instead of changing harness

petern101 · 02-22-2011, 10:54 AM

H23 harness should work because that's what most people use for SI to vtec swap.

You just have to wire up the vtec. You shouldn't have bought a h22a4 harness because that's obd2, you would have to buy another harness to adapt back to obd1.

Blackout Trap · 02-23-2011, 06:30 AM

That what i told the dealership but they say its not for the motor
they said they would have to rewire the whole harness to make it work and the cost to about 1150. Any advice i can tell them to do to get it running right?

well the research i did told me that it was the knock sensor that was worng and that the knock is different so thats why not driveable so i cut the knock and switch them and i thought if it doesn't work i could use the other harness

minilogoguy18 · 02-23-2011, 06:16 PM

Sell that harness and get a H23a1 harness and add the oil pressure switch plug, you should already have the spool valve plug next to your shock tower on the passenger side. Or get the manuals for both 4th gen VTEC and 5th gen and redo the pins on the harness at the big plug that goes to the main harness so that they are right.

Your whole problem is the OBD2 harness, the pin order is different where it plugs into the main harness so it's not seeing half the sensors. Any H knock sensor will work, only way you can have the wrong one is if a B or D series one was in there, H knock sensors have a black socket.

Blackout Trap · 03-07-2011, 08:17 PM

Ok i'm using my h23 harness but also have a h22 OBD2 harness now. I''ve got 600 in the bill and still car is not running. (planning on removing from shop at 900 if not fixed) Now was also told that the TPS is not plugged in / not there and did'nt check to see if there because didn't know located. Have done research on the sensor and found location also it has the same symptoms as the knock but was told that the knock was the problem. Knock is now secure but6 not sure myself if sensor itself is still good. Any advice on other things to check to pinpoint the problem?

Blackout Trap · 07-02-2011, 10:58 AM

Ok i have my car now still doing the same thing still looking for help around the area and i have no clue on where to start to look for the problem any help plz

minilogoguy18 · 07-02-2011, 06:48 PM

Start with using the H23a1 harness as well as the distributor, one thing I also forgot about is that you'll need injectors from an OBD1 car. The injectors are probably the main source so start there and find some from an OBD1 H22a or H22a1 as long as they are OBD1 injectors. The reason why you would want to run the H23a1 dizzy is because of the sensors so that you wont have to do any wiring modification as IMO cutting a OEM harness is total blasphemy.

Also, the map sensor is different between the 2, you're going to have to extend the wires for the map sensor, it is originally mounted on the firewall with a 3 pin connector, the H22a4 has it mounted on the top of the throttle body.

So main outline of things to make it work.

-H23a1 wiring harness
-H23a1 distributor
-OBD1 H22a or H22a1 fuel injectors
-H23a1 fuel rail (H22a4 inlet is on opposite side if I'm not mistaken)
-Extend map sensor wiring
-Worry about VTEC last, that can be fixed at any time.

Not sure why H22a4 was used, a OBD1 JDM H22a would have been so easy.

S-LudeDan · 07-02-2011, 07:06 PM

my 2 cents are stay away from the dealership! Far away!

Dealership are good for some minor things and some parts that are impossible to find, but for what you are trying to do, do not come near any dealership. Do yourself a favor mate.

minilogoguy18 · 07-02-2011, 07:19 PM

Hey man, I work at the dealer and I'll have to defend it some, most of the people I work with are honest and can do engine and transmission rebuilds faster than you can hand wash and dry your car from start to finish. Not all of them are bad but when it comes to a modified car yes, the techs there are going to get stumped sometimes cause they aren't used to it but where I work 2 of the master techs have built their fare share of Honda's as well as myself and a few others not shying away from a car like this.

Pretty sure if I had this one in front of me I could have it up and running pretty quick.

The only thing I would encourage is to actually not take the car anywhere only because if you are going to modify a car you better know how to work on it or at least be learning. If not you're just going to spend way too much money paying someone else to do it, if you can't work on it then you have no business modifying it.

Just post whatever else you run into and I'll help the best I can, with the things mentioned in my last post you should have it up and running.

Blackout Trap · 07-03-2011, 04:38 PM

Ok Minilogoguy thanks for the reply and starting point. I have most of the things on your list done and the h22a4 fuel rail is on the opposite side and am using the h23 dizzy, harness, fuel rails and injectors. Well now i am on the lookout for H22a1 injectors and now on the research for the MAP Sensor plug because the sensor on the top TB is not plug in thanks for the confirmation on the sensor.

minilogoguy18 · 07-03-2011, 09:21 PM

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/6167/07032011703.jpg

If you look at the center of this pic you'll see the metal bracket with the circle hole where the old map sensor will be mounted, don't get it confused with the purge control solenoid that is to the right. You can also see how I have my sensor wired as I had to do it like you because of my aftermarket 68mm TB.

Blackout Trap · 07-13-2011, 07:04 PM

Thanks for the photo much help i've extended the wires and took it for a test drive the hesitation is still there but now that i've finished from your starting point should i reset the ecu and check for codes but now where should i start at now if i may ask?

minilogoguy18 · 07-13-2011, 08:44 PM

Hesitation can be many things, check TB, clogged cat (exhaust mani will glow red hot), dirty injectors, bad spark plugs, gonna have to check a lot of things. One thing though, never have had a problem mainly cause I have a Euro R mani but is the IAB system hooked up properly? I know without it you can have quite a bit of hesitation.

Do you still have a resistor box and using the OBD1 injectors?

Blackout Trap · 07-13-2011, 10:35 PM

ok i'll run a maintenance but i'm hope something works i'm not wanting to put even a couple more hundred and it still not running right. I know its not the cat and i'm not sure bout the IAB system i did remove a part of it when i had my h23 that was under my intake pipe and i had no hesitation, but this is a big hesitation not just a small drop it seems like i can 't get pass 3-3500k i can rev pass it and get it back in gear. What I heard bout the IAB system is that the butterflies in the second runners open on low rpms and close at high rpms. I sure am still using the resistor box and OBD1 injectors. Do you think if i pull the resistor plug from the box it'll stop hesitation? just asking and i've got a question become i've posted this before and i was told it was my knock sensor. Do you know how i can check if it faulty? Ever hear bout the 3k hesistation problem?

minilogoguy18 · 07-14-2011, 05:31 AM

No, don't pull the resistor box and not it's not the knock sensor, I've had a back knock sensor and all it does is trip a CEL and won't let you use VTEC. I'm wondering if you may be running on 3 cylinders that's why I said check all the plugs, pull each plug wire out 1 at a time with the engine idling and see if there is a change in idle. If so from there make sure that cylinder is getting spark and fuel. Here's how you check the injectors...

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/998...tortesting.png

If there are any CEL codes you should resolve them before getting into diagnosing.

boyasaurus · 07-17-2011, 01:07 AM

if your car is ob1, and you just bought an obd2 engine, you will need your obd1 wire harness with Distributor. If it has an external coil [i believe]you will need that too. I see you're running the P13. You will also have to swap h22a fuel rail and injectors. Also will have to plug your resistor box. As for your map sensor. The Prelude 92-95 map sensor is located on the fire wall, behind your intake manifold. I would recommend using your Si throttle body also. The TPS and map sensor are the same plug cause they right by each other. Make sure you plug it to the right one.

Edit: mini covered up almost everything. I just read your post and reply, didnt read the rest till now. lol

Edit: its ok to unplug/remove IAB that will keep your butterflies open.
But if it hesistating at 3-3.5k, like mini said, check your sparkplug/wires. It also can be tps is off or might be bad. That happens. Might have a bad coil. See if your injectors are in tight and plugged properly.