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Old 07-01-2002, 01:46 AM   #1 (permalink)
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cv joints???

when i drive slowly straight or turning there's a clicking sound near the passenger side. are my cv joiunts going bad?
am i able to fix this myself?
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Old 07-01-2002, 03:33 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds like it. jack the car up and check the CV boot for splits/leaks. think there's a write up on replacing the passenger side CV joint on hondaprelude.com.

Good luck
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Old 07-01-2002, 09:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i jacked up the car today and it was leaking greese

what happens if i don't fix it???
i am kinda broke right now
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Old 07-01-2002, 11:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i think ur car wouldnt move if it gets ****ed up,... i think.. i wanna know what happens too cus i think my **** is ****ed also
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Old 07-01-2002, 11:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Dont fix it, it will break at the most inconvienient time...youll be even more broke because you will have to have a towtruck come get it and bring it to a shop. Where you will become even more broke because you still have to buy another axle. AutoZone is your friend though if ya need a cheap one...that or a junkyard...
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Old 07-02-2002, 02:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
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alright
i get the point
i guess i am force to shell out some money
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Old 07-02-2002, 04:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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man mine is doin the same thing it just started about a week or so ago coming from the front passengers side it does it mostly when i driving slow or apply brakes
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Old 07-02-2002, 09:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Whoa me too...ahah i thought i was the only one. Hmm maybe i should go get it fixed im just too lazy. I better get of my ass and go to the shop tomorrow morning. Mines the front drivers side by the way
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Old 07-03-2002, 04:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Hey, it's really not that hard to fix a boot or replacing the CV joint. I think the hardest part is just yanking the axle off. It's very straight forward process:

just make sure you have a rubber mallet and a 36mm socket to take off the hub nut. And a buddy to help you. Alcohol doesn't hurt either.

This is only a 1-2 hour job, a lot less if you have access to a lift.
Took me less than 1 hour to replace a joint on a passenger side the first time I did it, with a pizza break. (but I had access to a lift).

good luck.
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Old 07-03-2002, 04:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yeah, I would get it fixed ASAP, you don't want to snap an axle on the road, it is a HUGE pain in the ass, trust me I've done it. Well my axle didn't snap cuz it was old, I was launching, . Luckily I didn't have to get towed though, I pushed my car into a parking lot, went to pick up a new axle and swapped it. Took me freaking 9hrs though because half the spline broke off inside the differential, and I had to get it out.

Eddie
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Old 07-04-2002, 10:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Mine is clicking to on the driver side, also is this another sign: when im driving slow its like my car dosent want to go but then it passes a point and then it goes again like hessitaion at the wheels.
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Old 07-04-2002, 11:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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LOL " Dont fix it, it will break at the most inconvienient time" so damn tru.

Any way here is what u do . I know only cause i kept screwin up an now i can pull an replace a set of axles in 30 min. But basically ur best friend is an impact wrench for that axle nut an a 36mm socket u can rent at auto zone. But pull ur wheel of after u jacked up ur car then pump ur brakes an put ur car in gear an spin the axle nut off. There is a fork that is on the front struts that attaches to the lower control arm remove both of the bolts an slide teh fork down an off. U will need a lower ball joint separator to separate the suspension knuckle from the lower control arm. Now remove the castel nut an cottor pin from the lower ball joint ( which is the shaft the connects the lower control arm an the suspension knuckle ) Now this is the part where most people get all mad an frustrated if u dont know what u are doing ( I know I have spent 3 hours VERY MAD on one part) but anyway the ball joint separator is a long steal rod with a forked end with a flat edge an a angled edge u want the angled edge to be on the bottom an the flat edge on top then u want to place this fork inbetween the suspension knuckle an lower control arm an hammer the end like no other if u have a short handled sledge it works best once it has separated u want to pick up the rotor/hub assembly an separate the the ball joint from the suspension knucklenext u can swing the rotor an pull the axle out of the rotor at the same time. Next u need to remove the axle from the tranny. the axle has a retention ring on it so it makes it kinda hard to remove so what u do is take a small crow bar an slide the end inbetween the the inboard axle case an the tranny an take ur hammer an beat the axle away from the tranny. Once u have popped the ring outa the groove its in in the tranny it will just slide out if the crow bar doesnt work u can just beat the sh*t outa the casing ( hold the axle cause if u dont u might be needin a new pair of balls ) anyway once u have removed the axle take it to ur local axle repair shop an tell em u want it rebuilt it should be about $65 they should remove an replace the the ball bearings with new ones, resurface the bearing races, regrease the axles, reboot the axles an ur ready to go re install the same way u removed it all u have to do to the ball joint is drop it back into where it was an replace the castel nut an cotter pin. The drivers side axle is very similar it just connects to the intermediate shaft an instead of a crow bar to separate it u are prolly better off to just beat it apart with a hammer. Sorry i dont have time to get pics but if u have any questions IM me at Bluelude1 or email me. Oh an dudes remember this is the suspension u are messin with also so u might wanna rent a torque wrench an get this stuff all back to spec before u go chirpin the tires ( an make sure u put all ur parts in a bucket so u dont lose any i does very bad things for u I know all to well .... lets just say my wheel looked like the Dalorien ( sp?) on "Back to the Future" when the wheels lay flat only i was about to roll into heavy traffic
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Last edited by BlueLude1; 07-04-2002 at 11:51 PM.
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Old 07-05-2002, 03:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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damn typed all this an nobody looks at it
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B]1992 Prelude VTEC[/B]

* JDM H22 w/ H22 Tranny
* Blue AEM CAI
* ACT HDSS
* Apex'i V-AFC
* Energy Suspension Master Kit w/ Rear Trailing Arm Bushings
* Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts
* NGK Blue Wires
* Fiberglass Spoon Replica Lip
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Old 07-05-2002, 03:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
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i looked at it! i read it!
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- brand new oem style VIS CARBON FIBER HOOD w/ rolled edges for 4th & 5th Gens - $400 o.b.o + shipping
- jdm ONE PIECE HEADLIGHTS for 4th gen - $400 o.b.o + shipping
- APEX'I DUNK axle back (muffler) - $100 o.b.o + shipping
AIM: ophdeheezy
EMAIL: ophdeheezy@yahoo.com

.....1992 HONDA PRELUDE SI 4WS JDM VTEC.....
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Old 07-05-2002, 03:46 PM   #15 (permalink)
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lol cool
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B]1992 Prelude VTEC[/B]

* JDM H22 w/ H22 Tranny
* Blue AEM CAI
* ACT HDSS
* Apex'i V-AFC
* Energy Suspension Master Kit w/ Rear Trailing Arm Bushings
* Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts
* NGK Blue Wires
* Fiberglass Spoon Replica Lip
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Old 09-30-2005, 11:05 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bazza340
Sounds like it. jack the car up and check the CV boot for splits/leaks. think there's a write up on replacing the passenger side CV joint on hondaprelude.com.

Good luck

anyone happen to save this write up since hondaprelude.com is no longer active?
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