I've had a small oil leak for a while now and i want to replace my head and oil pan gaskets (and others if necessary). I'm set to change my oil here in about 2 weeks so i was just gonna do it then. SOOOO, are they hard to change and whats the best place to buy new gaskets?
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WTB: Short center console (hopefully with cupholder and armrest), stock black carpet, other misc. interior parts.
Honda Parts Dept. For the oil pan gasket, you'll have to remove your a-pipe (sits between the manifold and cat), and if you rusty bolts on the cat, you may need an acetylene torch to get them loose. Once the a-pipe is off, you have pretty much direct access to the pan, there are a bunch of same-sized nuts that surround the outer lip, which tighten to studs protruding from the bottom of the block. Remove the nuts, in most cases, you could reuse them, but you may have to replace a few at least, it all depends. After getting the pan off, peel the gasket off and make sure you have cleaned the mating surfaces (on pan and block) of any material left behind from the removal of the gasket. Find a helms, or someone with one for torque specs for putting the nuts back on when you have replaced the gasket, while I'm sure many will say just hand tighten it till you can't move them anymore, it makes more sense (considering not everyone has the exact same arm strength) to just use a torque wrench and tighen it to spec. I'll come back and edit this later with that info, but I gotta run now. Oh yeah, make sure you drain the oil first ... hehe, good thing I don't write instruction manuals for anything.
Originally posted by bsi just use the german torque specs- gÃœdentight
sure, if you want to replace the gasket just to leak some more oil. It's rubber, so you over tighten and it'll bind in that area where it's overtightened, or in time it'll just leak from there. Broken, not hard, if you can get those rusty cat bolts off, the rest can be done in garage. All that's holding that oil pan are a lot of small nuts, and once the a-pipe is removed, you don't have to get anything else out to get to the pan
You don't have to remove the a-pipe. I couldn't get the cat bolts off, so I just took off the bolts that hold it to the header and pulled the pipe down when I pulled the pan off.
hey, not bad. I figured it would be hard to unhook the a-pipe from the hanger while it was still bolted to the cat, or is that hanger after the flex pipe? I can't remember.
It's an easy job. Once you have the oil pan off make sure and inspect it for any left-over gasket material and warpage. Other than that, it's a swap and go pretty much with the exception of the exhaust. Still pretty straightforward though.
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Josh's '92 Milano Si (5spd)- The mod list is growing!!
sure, if you want to replace the gasket just to leak some more oil. It's rubber, so you over tighten and it'll bind in that area where it's overtightened, or in time it'll just leak from there. Broken, not hard, if you can get those rusty cat bolts off, the rest can be done in garage. All that's holding that oil pan are a lot of small nuts, and once the a-pipe is removed, you don't have to get anything else out to get to the pan
common sense, if the torque specs are given in Helms, there's a reason for it. You overtighten your drainplug bolt on your oil pan long enough and it'll get tapped, oil will leak, and you'll have to replace the pan (found that out the hard way). Lol, no, I'm not very positive. Some see their glass half empty, some see their glass half full ... hell, no one ever gave me a damn glass
^^Let's just say, judging by the way you sound, the headgasket will be too much for you to handle. Run a search, you'll find all the info. you need on that subject.
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Josh's '92 Milano Si (5spd)- The mod list is growing!!
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For the oil pan gasket, you'll have to remove your a-pipe (sits between the manifold and cat), and if you rusty bolts on the cat, you may need an acetylene torch to get them loose. Once the a-pipe is off, you have pretty much direct access to the pan, there are a bunch of same-sized nuts that surround the outer lip, which tighten to studs protruding from the bottom of the block. Remove the nuts, in most cases, you could reuse them, but you may have to replace a few at least, it all depends. After getting the pan off, peel the gasket off and make sure you have cleaned the mating surfaces (on pan and block) of any material left behind from the removal of the gasket. Find a helms, or someone with one for torque specs for putting the nuts back on when you have replaced the gasket, while I'm sure many will say just hand tighten it till you can't move them anymore, it makes more sense (considering not everyone has the exact same arm strength) to just use a torque wrench and tighen it to spec. I'll come back and edit this later with that info, but I gotta run now. Oh yeah, make sure you drain the oil first ... hehe, good thing I don't write instruction manuals for anything.
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