Ok I got my swap 99.9% finished. I got some little stuff to do and some little problems to work out.
When I have my P14 ECU in the car idles well and throws no engine code.
When I have the P13 ECU in the car idles rough and I get a check engine light. When I check the code its 2 long and 2 short, I am assuming that’s 22. Which is the vtec solenoid. I do not understand why I am getting the code 22. I have a wire going from my vetc solenoid straight to the ECU in slot A4. Could my solenoid be bad?
I did a searched for the rough idle and have gotten through about half of what people told other luders to do. I’ll get back to you all on this one.
i do have the Vtec oil psi sensor hooked and its grounded. i grounded it my battery, i have also tried several other places. is the Vtec circuit grounded? humm... i only have on wire going from the sensor to the ECU, its the green/yellow wire. is there suppose to be a ground wire there too? reading Reds write up did not say anything about it, of course i have read directions before and not retained the info.
UPDATE:
I got the check engine light and rough idle gone. I added oil and I think that took care of the check engine light/code 22. I do not know what I did to get the rough idle to stop but it’s gone. I now have the d-mn hesitation that has troubled so many luders before. Or at least that’s what I think it is. I am still reading the 6-page thread on it.
My big question is about Vtec. Where should it kick in? I get the car up to 6000 rpms and it will not go any farther than that. The engine stops accelerating there. I guess you could describe it as fuel cut off/rev limiter, but not as harsh. I know when I reached the rev limiter/fuel cut off in my Civic it got jerky. What could cause it to act like that?
Looks like knowone is helpin eh. OK first off the vtec cross over point on a stock p-13 ECU is 5200 rpms. Once in that range you should pull hard and alot higher than 6000 rpms. You said you got rid of the check engine light, However it sounds like you are still in limp mode for some reason or another. When you have a engine light on your car will be very unresponsive, no vtec engagement at all and I believe a 6000 rpm cut off. "Limp mode" is just that limp it home to fix the problem. But if your not getting a check engine light, I would keep looking over you vacuum lines and connections. Because if you are not sure as to when vtec is kicking in that tells me you haven't felt it because it aint kickin in. You will know/hear/feel when it changes cam lobs. I know this will sound like everyone else but I learned soooo much info from this board by just searching around. Just keep on it and you'll figure it out. let us know if you get stuck maybe I/we can help. Peace
I think today I will put the P14 ecu I and see what happens with it. I know I want have vtec bit I am curious to see if I will be in "limp mode".
Can almost anything send your car into limp mode or is it specific problems? I got a couple of plugs that I cannot find there home for. As of right now I know of one, but I could have sworn there were a couple of more. I thought that when I started the car that the ecu would throw a code and that would lead me in the general direction of where the homeless plugs go.
Today I am putting the car on a lift, so hopefully I can see better underneath the car.
The cases that I have personaly delt with have been with an check engine light on is when I went into limp mode. I would have to be betting on the fact that those plugs you are referring to are probably some if not all of your problem/s. I am not too sure about putting in the P-14 ECU. yes you could and it would be easy but it will run poorly. I would stick it out with the P-13 and keep trying to diagnose your problems. Let us know what you see. I assume since you did the swap you have a Helms right. Just look through it till you know where all the connectors are to go. Peace
yea the problems is the plugs i forgot to label are not in easy to see spots with the the engine installed go figure.
anyway like i said, i am on my way to take it to the shop and put it on a lift. i would like to get it running correctly before i have to ship it on friday. if i had a check engine light, it would help a little bit more. ill keep you all posted.
Ok I am PO dumbest member. I had the p14 ecu in the car, not the p13. Don’t I fell stupid? So after I realize my mistake I plug in the P13 and the car throws an engine code. I read it and it comes up 22, again. The other day I took the VTEC switch thingy off and cleaned it. I thought that fixed it, but apparently I plug the P14 in and thought that the cleaning fixed my problem… WRONG!!
So I check my wires going from my ECU to the VTEC switch and all looks good.
Did a little testing on the lude today. Took the V reading like the helms said to. Here is what I got:
Blue/black to body ground = 0V
With the ignition on blue/black to blk = 5V
I am assuming that I will have to replace the vtec pressure switch, or what ever it’s called.
Anyone else had to do this after they did the engine swap? Anyone else ran into this problem period?
I had that problem on my first engine. It needed the Filter on the switch cleaned. But unfortunately what was blocking the vtec switch was parts of my rod bearings. haha. That ment i had to remove the engine, return it and start the swap again. ***.
What ecu is the p14? SI? Did you swap from SI or S model? Did you hook the Knock sensor up? Every swap i have done takes a few days to a few weeks of driving before it really runs nicely.
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S/SI/Vtec Hybrid. RS*R Header, JDM downpipe, Custom Downpipe back 2.25 Exhaust, Intake, ""Mugen"" Programmed p13, No balancer belt, no AC, Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, SI trans, Power Slot rotors, SkunkII Coilovers, Enki Rims.
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I now have the d-mn hesitation that has troubled so many luders before. Or at least that’s what I think it is. I am still reading the 6-page thread on it. 
go figure.
Linear Mode
