preludatic

Ok so i finished up everything this morning... And the car started fine without throwing any CEL's... So i let it warm up, and drove it around the block (about 3 miles). It started to fluctuate between 3 temp. gauge bars, and 4... and when i slowed down to pull into driveway.. the check engine came on. I left the car in idle, to see if the radaitor fan would come on... but it never did, and i had a little bit of smoking from the radiator. I DID notice, that for some reason, my heater controlls werent working (no power). So i started checking fuses, and noticed my power mirrors (R/C mirros) fuse was missing. So i replaced it, and the mirrors worked again, and the heater worked . I'm going to drive it to work tommorow to see if it over heats again. Would the heater controlls have ANYTHING to do with the fan not coming on? Because i know that there must be some kind of sensor to tell the fan to come on when the motor is hot.

So back to my CEL thing. When i'd restart the car, the light was gone, but everytime i slowed down to near stop, the light would come on, and stay on till restarted again. any ideas?

I think thats it for now. TIA

Zimmlude

I had the EXACT same thing happen to me when I did my swap. It turned out to the be the Radiator fan switch was bad on the JDM motor. It is the one on the thermostat housing, you can test it very easily. When the car is fully warmed up (i.e. the fans would have come on if they were working) uplug the switch connector and check for continuity across the contacts on the switch (not the plug). If there is continuity then the switch is fine, if not, it is bad. If the switch is fine then try jumping the contacts on the plug, if the fans come on then the switch may not have been making contact.

Beyond that, I am not sure I can help. Check your Helms manual (you damn well better have one if you did an engine swap ) it should have radiator fan troubleshooting charts in it.

Good luck.

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Jason

Zimmlude

Also, try pulling the CEL code, it should be stored even if the light it off. Then look it up and find out what it is.

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Jason

preludatic

so if the connector is bad? what do i do to replace it?

preludestud11

the temp thing happend to me after i changed my timing belt. It would go up and down and up and down, It happend because i didnt plug up a ground wire that goes to the end of the valve cover, and the motor mount area. might check that.

Rich

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Zimmlude

The connector shouldn't be bad. I am 99.99% sure that the switch will end up being bad. You can use the one off your old engine. Like I said, check the switch first.

ALso, check the fan relay in the underhood fuse box, if its bad they won't come on either.

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Jason

ancient

Possibly if you just did the swap, ure thermostat needs to hit a high temp to open at first, I had this problem when I rebuilt my engine...


When we first ran it , it went waaaaaaay high cause the thermo wasn't letting coolant into the engine, just had to let it run till the thermo was like uh oh, and opened, and in went tons of antifreeze

Zimmlude

^^^ I'd be worried about stressing or cracking a sleeve doing that.

I don't think it is the thermostat cause he said it cooled off when he was driving, just heated up when he stopped. That means coolant is flowwing to the radiator, it just isn't getting the airflow it needs when the car stops.

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Jason

ancient

We were too, but all was good thank god.

preludatic

drove it to work today. didnt over heat once. i didnt really study the fans at all, but i let it idle for a while, and everything seemed ok.