Every year, during the winter time...my clutch seems to go out. I think it's my master cylinder, but the symptom is that the clutch pedal just goes limp. It starts out that it gets harder and harder to shift, until the clutch pedal feels like a limp feather and the clutch can't be engaged or disengaged.
My local mechanic seems to fix it every year, but is he doing something wrong? If he is, anyone know of any good mechanics in the Dallas, TX are?
If you have a new master cylinder (or somewhat new), id replace the slave like they said. My clutch went out and i replaced both and its been fine ever since, its an easy job to do yourself.
So basically it doesn't matter if you only switch the slave, you would also have to change the master as well, correct?
I'm asking because I just had a new clutch/flywheel installed. About three weeks later I noticed less resistance on the clutch pedal -- basically it takes no effort to depress the clutch, then when it's at the engagement point, there is a slight increase in resistance.
Thanks Xander, that's what a friend told me as well.
So, how hard is it to 'bleed' the clutch?
One more thing - it also seems as if the clutch doesn't grab as harder then it did during the break in period. Will bleeding the clutch make the clutch grab a little better? TIA.
Thanks Xander, that's what a friend told me as well.
So, how hard is it to 'bleed' the clutch?
One more thing - it also seems as if the clutch doesn't grab as harder then it did during the break in period. Will bleeding the clutch make the clutch grab a little better? TIA.
I don't think you should be driving the car in a manor to tell if it grabs hard or not when you are breaking it in.. be pretty easy on it the first 1k miles or so..
^Yeah I did break it in correctly, as I didn't shift past 4k until over 1,000 miles. I noticed after, that the clutch wasn't as stiff and had less resistance. I remember during the break in period the clutch would grab really hard -- as in making the tires chirp -- now even shifting at redline doesn't even get me a little 'chirp'.
^Yeah I did break it in correctly, as I didn't shift past 4k until over 1,000 miles. I noticed after, that the clutch wasn't as stiff and had less resistance. I remember during the break in period the clutch would grab really hard -- as in making the tires chirp -- now even shifting at redline doesn't even get me a little 'chirp'.
what kind of clutch did you get? do you have solid motor mounts/inserts?
hmm nice clutch and all, how light is the flywheel? Maybe with less momentum at the flywheel it could have an effect, but throw in some motor mount inserts and I guarantee you that you will do more than chirp second hehe..
When I was stock with just an intake I could turn em over shifting to second if I shifted pretty hard
The ACT streetlite flywheel is about 11.8lbs IIRC. Nice flywheel, noticed the car accelerate's alot smoother then stock.
I've heard alot of good stuff about motor mounts - I just don't want to have the motor removed to have them installed. Perhaps you could help me with the install if I do decide to get them??
Anyways, I'm gonna try to bleed the clutch this weekend and see what's up. Thanks.
I'm gonna try to bleed the clutch this weekend and see what's up. Thanks.
Buy THESE for your brakes and your clutch. I got these a while ago and it makes the whole process an EASY one man job
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*Short Ram Intake*Greddy SS Header*"Hi-Flo Cat"*Thermal R&D Classic catback*AEM Tru Power Pullies*Front & Rear strut bars*H&R Sport Springs*KYB AGX Shocks*Exedy Racing Clutch*Fidanza Flywheel*ES MM Inserts*..working on it.
The ACT streetlite flywheel is about 11.8lbs IIRC. Nice flywheel, noticed the car accelerate's alot smoother then stock.
I've heard alot of good stuff about motor mounts - I just don't want to have the motor removed to have them installed. Perhaps you could help me with the install if I do decide to get them??
Anyways, I'm gonna try to bleed the clutch this weekend and see what's up. Thanks.
yea sure, you don't gotta remove the motor, you get two inserts, one for the front and one for the back mount.. just do one mount at a time.. front one is easy to get to, rear one you have to take off the throttle body(well you don't HAVE to), but it makes it easier.. just take the motor mount out, clean em, plop in the inserts and reinstall.. probaly 2-3 hrs for the first time
Garn-I've heard it's worth it, however I don't want to install the myself. Hopefully sometime when you're free on a weekend we can meet up somewhere and you could install them for me?
Garn-I've heard it's worth it, however I don't want to install the myself. Hopefully sometime when you're free on a weekend we can meet up somewhere and you could install them for me?
Just let me know when, I'm super busy on my car right now, but hopefully that will end SOON!
I live in Western VA, not sure if you know where Roanoke is
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