I put off this post since I had the pivot bolt break on my transmission and I had to replace that. I don't believe that it had anything to do with the new line and the removal of the clutch damper.
So here are the parts that I ordered:
Part# Description Price
9919BFE Metric thread male to AN adapter male. 7.99
609104 Speed-Seal Non-Adj. Tube 90 Deg Steel hose End (Use Speed-Flex Hose) 9.04
600104 Speed-Seal Straight Hose End. STEEL zinc plated (Use Speed-Flex Hose) 6.04
600004 Speed-Flex Hose, -4 for Clutch systems (Teflon Liner) 3.45/ft 20.70
9919BFB Metric thread male to AN adapter male. 7.99

I think that I should have ordered the low profile 90 degree hose end instead because the one I used hits the firewall just a little. You have to remove the Master cylinder in order to remove the line.
Low Profile Hose End:
Hose Assembly.
I printed out some instructions that I found online but here is a quick overview.
Put the hose through the first nut.
Then Separate the braid from the teflon tube and insert the fitting.
Insert the hose end into the tip of the hose and then tighten the first nut.

and
Do that to both sides and you have assembled your hose.
Installing the fittings:
This is pretty simple, just tighten the AN fittings into the Master and Slave cylinders. Note: Again, I had to loosen my master cylinder in order to install my 90 degree bend.

and
Running the Line:
It was easiest for me to run the line from the Master Cylinder because its hose end was not adjustable once it was assembled, whereas the orientation of the straight fitting to be installed on the slave cylinder does not matter. I ended up modifying all stock hose clamps from the old hard lines so no additional hardware was needed.
So from the master cylinder I ran the hose over the brake booster to the clamp that previously held the hard line.

and
I ran it under the throttle and cruise control lines to another clamp that held the hard line.
From there it runs where the hard line was making sure not to come in contact with anything it would hurt (it is pretty abrasive). It comes out beside the rear motor mount and is held by a clamp on one of the shift linkage mount bolts.
I wanted to make sure that the shift linkage was not going to rub on the line so I used another clamp where the old hard line and soft line met.
Then I ran the line around the electrical connections and down to the slave cylinder.
Obviously then I had to bleed the system.
Impressions:
The pedal feels a bit more mechanical. I can feel some of the vibrations while shifting. I also have ES motor mounts so that is somewhat to be expected. I have no complaints and now the pedal much more consistent. It may have saved a pound or two considering the new line weighs under a pound and the damper is surprisingly heavy.