Ok, so I have a 96 lude si , and the piece of crap plastic tank radiator cracked on the top just like my 93 si did. So me and a friend replaced the radiator with a slightly thicker, all metal one. We get everything disconnected, plug the new one in, replace the tranny fluid that leaked, check all fluids..... etc.
Now I drove it for a bit, seemed fine. After about 5 minutes of driving the car has an extremely rough idle when I'm in D4(auto) at a stop light. The rpms drop to about 3-400 and almost dies..... I rechecked the transmission fluid and it seems perfectly fine.
yeah, coolant should be fine, topped off when we put the new one in, would too much or too little coolant cause that though???
The tranny fluid I got was dextron 3 compat. I looked on the back and asked the guy at checker(autozone..whateva) and he said it was ok for my honda, and the back of the bottle said honda tranny's too.
you have air bubbles still in the coolant - that causes a crazy idle. Loosen the bleeder valve until coolant comes out without bubbles and/or keep trying to add coolant until the rad is full. Then run the car (with heat on full), let it cool, and add more coolant. Make sure the reservoir is filled up too.
When I went back out there, It took more coolant.. And I let the bubbles come out, and this time the car drove a little further before doing the crazy idle while in drive thing......
By the bleeder valve do you mean the one that goes into the overflow resv?
Bleeder valve's kinda annoying. I would just get the coolant really hot and open the radiator cap and let the bubbles come all out for about 10 minutes. It does the trick.
I'm getting the same problem.. mines drops to like 100rpms.. and this is sitting in neutral.. i just checked and my radiator was leaking too WHAT THE ****!
this is blurry, but behind the black hose top left of the picture, where the lower rad hose connects to .. you can see the nipple, this is on an H23 ...
Below is H22 .. You can see the bleeder valve between the spark plug wires.. on the farthest left is the rad hose connect, a bit up count the wires .. between 3rd and forth you can see it poking straight up, add .orig.jpg and you can blow it up .. its a bolt that looks like a nipple and has a hole in it.. loosen it and air will come out. Make sure that you have the heat cranked in the car so that the air gets out of the heater core as well. This is also where the thermostat is on our engines, you can almost see it in this photo by looking into the lower rad coolant line. (fat open pipe on the left)
Unscrew this bolt, and air will come out followed by some coolant.. to truely bleed the system after you replace rad etc. you need to let the car idle for a couple of hours adding coolant as necessary. I haven't even done this yet.
Ok, i found the bleed valve, stupid me.... I loosened it after I had been driving for a while, and it shot coolant 6 inches into the air.... almost got my hand.... I let it do it's thing, the fans kicked on... .still doing the same thing, I'm going to try the rad cap one another time.. after that i'm going to call it quits...
Ok, sat there for at least 45minutes watching the endless trail of bubbles...
Just when i thought it had stopped, more came out.... waited another 15....
Stopped again...
Took it around the block, same problem.
Came back, opened up the cap, let it run some more...... more bubbles...
Question, If I hit the gas when the cap is off, are bubbles supposed to rise up? It seems like no matter how long I wait, if I hit the gas, more bubbles are on the way.
hmmm, you sure you didnt remove any vaccume lines or damage any?
At this point, my thoughts are that you need to flush your cooling system, maby something from one of the radiators is stuck in your IAC of maby your thermostat housing, or worse. Other than that, i guess just let that steam rise from your bleeder valve.
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hmmm, you sure you didnt remove any vaccume lines or damage any?
At this point, my thoughts are that you need to flush your cooling system, maby something from one of the radiators is stuck in your IAC of maby your thermostat housing, or worse. Other than that, i guess just let that steam rise from your bleeder valve.
Well, I've pretty much given up on the bleeder valve, I've let it sit there hours on end..... and drive it, and the same problem, I'm going to buy new lines and see if I can take it out, and put everything back in again. thanks
hmmmmmmmmmm.... you are taking off the rad cap .. ?? .. who knows man .. thats a LOT of bleeding ..
hey how about the overflow resevior .. is that at the right level ?
i didnt let the bleed valve sit for hours... i was talking about the radiator cap solution...
yeah, it's at the right level.... im going to replace all the hoses we touched this weekend
I'm sorry you have to go through all this crap influx, I did a radiator change and bled all the air from my radiator cap in about 10 minutes. Hope things work out.
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