Car wont start (92 si automatic) - plz help I wanna get it home tonight--
I dont wanna leave it at the office tonight---
The "D" light keeps flashing at me.
The car drove fine no problems on the way into work today. I get in it just now to go pick up some food and the motor just wont crank over, and the "D" light just keeps flashing at me.
bro it's your main relay. Thats exactly how mine acted when the main relay soldering points started to crack. There won't be a check engine light and the D4 light will flash quickly. You might be able to start it if you hit the location of the main relay which is located under the steering wheel on the left side by the cruise control buttom.
You can either resolder them or get a new one. It's like 50 bucks from honda brand new..easy to replace too.
bro it's your main relay. Thats exactly how mine acted when the main relay soldering points started to crack. There won't be a check engine light and the D4 light will flash quickly. You might be able to start it if you hit the location of the main relay which is located under the steering wheel on the left side by the cruise control buttom.
You can either resolder them or get a new one. It's like 50 bucks from honda brand new..easy to replace too.
thanks for the help on this one bro---
I am gonna make a call to the honda dealer today.
can anyone point me in the direction of instructions on how to replace this?
is there any way to inspect it and make sure that this is the problem before I actually go about replacing it?
Thanks alot for the tip beacuse the car has been sitting in my driveway for the last 2 weeks beacuse I thought the problem probably lied in the automatic tranny ecu or something and didn't wanna spend the money to fix an auto tranny when I plan on doing a 5 spd swap some day.
Anyway the main relay is good news, now if anyone can point me towards some more information on replacing/diagnosing... I'd REALLY apprecaite it.
See on your link, the picture of the relay how its brownish/red on the bottom. look for the exact same thing under your dash, drivers side and i mean stick your head down by the pedals and look up. If you take a standard screwdriver and pry on the SHORT sides between the brownish/red and the grey on both sides it will pop out. Do the same with the new one and reverse to install and you'll save yourself a bunch of time.
You're welcome man. Honestly, with our main relays being notoriously bad I wouldn't trust a used one from ebay. It'll probably fail a lot sooner than a new one. The link you provided is like 36 bucks shipped and it'll take a week to get? Honda can you get one that same day or the next day new for like $50. It's just that with a bad relay the car won't start, so I wouldn't risk my car not starting for $15 less, ya know, but mine's a DD
Mine is a DD too and I also decided to go ahead and buy one from honda. I just want to take it apart and look at it first before shelling out the bucks to get it done.
I got home from work too late tonight, too dark to see... so i'll probably look at it first thing in the morning. I dont like driving my s2k to work, so I wanna get this taken care of asap.
well, I'm not exactly sure what i'm looking at here to know if this thing went bad or not, I dont see any of the solderings in terribly bad shape, but i'm not good at this sort of thing in the first place. so i took a high res pic and i was hoping if someone could look at it to see if its in good shape or not----
Test meter? there are two ways you can check it depending on your meter, you can either check the resistance or check the continuity, if you use an ohmmeter the the resistance should be practically 0 ohms, or you can use the continuity test if the meter has it when something has minimal resistance a beep sound is produced (which you want to hear), to check them im not sure how much room is on top of the board with the components but you can touch one lead on top side(component side) and touch the other lead on bottom side (solder side, the side in the picture) touching the same lead.
looks like there is some rosen on it to, so you may have to scrape the lead to get a good connection on the solder side
edit: also if you can get to any leads on the component side you can follow the copper pads on the solder side to a different lead soldered to the same pad and put one lead of the ohmmeter on each
Even then, there's no guarantee that it'll last or work right and with all the work needed to do a good job at removing the old solder, re soldering it, cleaning it and me not having a soldering iron or solder I didn't bother with it and just got a new one. Hope that link helps.
Last edited by darkbluelude; 07-08-2008 at 02:06 PM.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.