call me crazy but......... - Honda Prelude Forum

Mark94 · 07-22-2002, 06:52 AM

Last weekend my brother and I were installing my new Brembos and it was kind of annoying that the rotor kept turning when we were trying to remove it, so I got up to put the car in gear to stop them from turning. I put the car in gear and my brother yells to me that they are still rotating. I thought it was kind of strange but I was consumed with the project and really didn't give it much thought.

Since then, I've just been wondering if everything is OK

If anyone can enlighten me, I would appreciate it.

Mark

Forbidden · 07-22-2002, 07:43 AM

Ever rotate a tire on a car while it's in the air? Ever noticed that the wheel on the other side will be spining the other way? When you rotate the tires and both wheels are in the air you don't make the differential rotate you only make the mechanism inside it rotate. That why it keeps rotating even though the car is in gear.

Grant · 07-22-2002, 08:01 AM

I'm not understanding the situation....Why would you be trying to turn your rotors to install them? After you remove the Calipers and the two screws holding the rotor onto the hub they should just pull off..

prelude2005 · 07-22-2002, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Grant from Toronto
I'm not understanding the situation....Why would you be trying to turn your rotors to install them? After you remove the Calipers and the two screws holding the rotor onto the hub they should just pull off..

He was trying to take the screws off holding the rotor, when they started to spin....

Mark how do you like them? pictures? reviews? What kinda pads you use?

Did you use Todds write up?

Grant · 07-22-2002, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by prelude2005

He was trying to take the screws off holding the rotor, when they started to spin....

Mark how do you like them? pictures? reviews? What kinda pads you use?

Did you use Todds write up?

Ok then that's becasue of the Diff like Forbidden said..

Incidentally. If you have a LSD Diff the wheels will spin the same direction.. Open (standard) diff the wheels will spin opposite directions..

Forbidden · 07-22-2002, 08:13 AM

if the car isn't that high you can put 2 lug nuts on and put a pry bar or something like that against the ground and the 2 lug nuts so the wheel doesn't spin

MR.CLIFFORD · 07-22-2002, 08:45 AM

Mark,
Put your calipers on and set the E brake for the back and push on the brakes for the front while someone else turns the screws. Hope they weren't rusty.

Mark94 · 07-22-2002, 09:17 AM

Thanks for the clarification everyone. I never gave the diff. much thought. I'm glad to hear that there is nothing wrong.

Charlie - yes, I did use Todd's write - up. THANKS FOR ALERTING ME THAT HE FINISHED IT! His write-up was dead on except for the section were he wrote after you remove the two hub screws the rotors will just pull off. Mine were really stuck on there and we spent a long time banging each one with a hammer and mallet before they finally loosened up enough to wiggle off. It took me a lot longer than I thought but the end result was worth it. I haven't broken them in enough to be able to really test them because I have to give the pads and rotors enough time to couple correctly. I'm not sure when I'll be able to do this since I rarely drive the car.

The impact driver was definitely needed to get my screws off the hub. I searched high and low for one before I finally found one sitting on the shelf in Pep-Boys aobut 45 minutes from where I live. Everywhere I went was sold out and some places looked at me like I had two heads when I asked for it. It's definitely a usefull tool to have around the garage and is needed for this install. $9.99 from Pep-Boys

I'm using my stock pads since they are fairly new. Todd mentioned that there will be A LOT of brake dust on the rims for a little while and then I should notice less once they are mated properly. Once again he was right, there was A TON of dust on the rims the first time I drive it. I took it out yesterday, and there was considerably less this time, but it was still a nice dusting. I knew to expect more dust and quicker pad wear with the x-drilled/slotted combination but hopefully, the dusting gets even less with more time.

Overall, I am very happy with them. they look great when compared to the rusty originals and I'm sure they perform much better. Time didn't permit me to flush the brake fluid but when I get the chance the do that, I'm sure that will help reduce the fade I'm experiencing because I believe the fluid is the original

Andy, hopefully I will never be replacing these rotors again but thanks for the tip on how to stop them from turning. That was the problem when trying to get the hub screws out and it would have been a lot easier to work on if the rotor wasn't trying to rotate.

I'll try to take some pics if I get a hold of my work digi-cam. They look awesome with my rims since they are bright silver just like my rims. I'll email them to you to post if I take some.

Thanks again for the answers everyone.

Mark

Grant · 07-22-2002, 09:27 AM

Did you put antisieze on the hub and the screws when you put the rotors back on. It will make life easier next time you need to change the rotors.

BTW you don't really need the screws there. They just keep the rotors from shifting when you remove the rims.. Once the wheel is back on and the lugs tight, the rotor will be pressed up tight against the hub...

Mark94 · 07-22-2002, 09:39 AM

No I didn't use anti-sieze on the screws. I put it back on just like I found it. The key to any install, is the proper tools. Once we had the impact driver, it took two wacks on each screw to loosen them so I'm not worried if I ever change them again because the driver worked like a charm.

I know you technically don't need to put the retaining screws back on but Honda put them there so I put them right back on. It's piece of mind for me.

Mark

Forbidden · 07-22-2002, 09:45 AM

To get the rotors off, in the Helm it says to use 2 8mm bolt and screw them in the 2 holes on the rotors (not the ones where the screw were but the other 2 holes) and the rotors will come off easily.

Mark94 · 07-22-2002, 10:06 AM

Did that!!!!

I have the Helms, therefore I bought the right screws and we screwed them into the appropriate holes. The screws are 8 X 1.25 and we bought the hex heads so we could use a ratchet drive and socket to get more torque. We still had to bang like crazy to get them off the hub. We didn't want to use too much torque because we were afraid we would snap the head of the 8 X 1.25's and we would then have to drill them out. That's how tight they got in there and it still wasn't enough to release them from the hub.

When it came time to do the rear rotors, we used the screws just for the hell of it again. Again they had no affect. Once we got the rear rotors off, we could see that the the area were the screw was supposed to hit the hub was non existent. In that area of the hub where the screw would have made contact was drilled out. There was a hole about 1.5 inches in diameter on the hub behind the screw locations so the screw method didn't provide an ounce of help. Go figure!

The fronts made contact with the hub but not the rears.

Mark

MR.CLIFFORD · 07-22-2002, 10:08 AM

I put a lug behind the holes so there was something to push on. That pissed me off. I can't wait to see the pictures crazy

Mark94 · 07-22-2002, 10:26 AM

Tell me about it. What is the sense of putting the holes in the rotor if there is nothing behind it?

Mark

Forbidden · 07-22-2002, 11:29 AM

I've never removed my rear rotors but I guess I'll see that soon since I have to change them, though that's weird that they put those holes if there's nothing behind...