This post is basically a jumble of things and what timing belt I should get..etc..
I bought my 1993 H23/Vtec a year ago from a dealership, its black/black and still in great shape. It has always ran really smooth and strong as hell. I've already driven it 20,000+ miles. I have yet to bother messing around with anything except changing the spark plugs, getting optima battery and such.
Main things I notice are the H23 block and VTEC head of course, it has the Vtec solonoid, theres some "RPM modulator" thing that's attached to the firewall with a fuse and such, there are wires attached to Vtec solonoid from the "RPM modulator" thingy, theres a good CAI with K&N filter. No idea if pistons were changed or anything like that either. Theres no way I can find out who did the work either as I've tried.
Car sounds really badass and kicks in strong, note I've not even driven a straight up Vtec yet, I've nevertaken it above 6k, though from what I've gather from other's riding and/or driving my car is that it basically is somewhat faster than a regular Si.
Anyways, what I'm getting at is, I might actually try to see why the Vtec doesn't kick in at some point in time, or maybe even just play it safe and put a regular Si head back on??
Right now though, I would like to learn and find out exactly what the people who did the engine work before actually did and what parts I should try to get when doing maintenance such H22 or H23 parts.
My timing belt is frayed and warped on the side so I need to get that replaced, I'm wondering when I take it to the shop to get this done, do I tell them to use a VTEC timing belt and VTEC waterpump or Si ones? also what other things should I look out for such as when I get my valves adjusted to they do it to VTEC specs or Si...etc... I'm still excited I managed to get a somewhat unique prelude that runs badass but I don't want to mess it up haha I'm ignorant about some things and how to find out info.
so are you saying that vtec isn't kicking in? if this is the case, i'd take off the head and make sure that the oil orifice plug has been removed, if vtec doesn't sense enough oil pressure, it's not going to kick in. I'd check all the wiring first because this can be a half day project...
wow. a guy who doesn't know much about engines bought a h23 with a vtec head swapped on. That means trouble. Where ever you take it you will probably get rapped. Seriously.
I would just try and learn about all of it. Good luck. Thats a HUGE project. Even for an expert thats rather large.
If it really does have VTEC head on the H23 bottom end, then you'll need the VTEC water pump/timing belt etc. The H23's came with manual tensioner and the H22 VTEC's have auto tensioners. Who know what your's is. You'll probably just have to open her up to find out.
The Valve specs would also need to be for a VTEC.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=510617
^Thats a good place to start researching your engine. I can't emphize(sp?) that enought. Research your engine so that you know what you've gotten your self into. buying someone else's frankenstien engine usually means that you bought some else's problems.
Good Luck
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96 Prelude R.I.P 6.26.04 www.ntpog.org
- Sneaky Doug (Genious with a Learning Disablity)
NTPOG President
71dsp's Monkey-Wrench-B!tch
To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research.
Just as ^^ said, you will need the h22 waterpump, and h22 timing belt. Check the wiring and the ecu. It could be wired up just fine, but the ecu is possbily the stock p14 so it might not give out the vtec signal.
damn this was a double post. Give you a heads up, don't take it over 7000 RPM a lot. Not good for crank, seeing that an H23 was built to go to 6500 RPM. ALso make sure you to ****-shift, and u have a rev limiter.
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1993 Prelude SI
damn this was a double post. Give you a heads up, don't take it over 7000 RPM a lot. Not good for crank, seeing that an H23 was built to go to 6500 RPM. ALso make sure you to ****-shift, and u have a rev limiter.
Yeah sorry, don't know how it became a double post, I'm on dial up so perhaps I clicked too many times thinking it went through, hopefully an admin can merge them.
damn this was a double post. Give you a heads up, don't take it over 7000 RPM a lot. Not good for crank, seeing that an H23 was built to go to 6500 RPM. ALso make sure you to ****-shift, and u have a rev limiter.
from what i know about the h23/vtec frankenstien. you won't have a problem taking the rpms past 7000. the crank has nothing to do with it.
the h23 crank is actually stronger than the h22 crank (stronger as in beefier) same with the h23 rods. like the others said, check the oil oriface plug, and you'll need to make sure you have the right oil pump too.
wow. a guy who doesn't know much about engines bought a h23 with a vtec head swapped on. That means trouble. Where ever you take it you will probably get rapped. Seriously.
I would just try and learn about all of it. Good luck. Thats a HUGE project. Even for an expert thats rather large.
It runs flawless as a strong Si, I'm slowly but surely learning more and more, people on here are awesome, can't exactly find many people that know so much about Preludes and such things offline in RL.
Not sure what you mean by me getting raped. There's an exciting possibility like people have mentioned, that it might merely need 1 or 2 parts to get VTEC to work if I'm lucky or even if I switch it fully back to regular Si, I will get good experience and fun.
Is there any kind of easy way for me to see if all parts that the timing belt touches have been converted or if I can see what timing belt is currently on there? Also is removing the head to find out more information difficult? I'm in the process of ordering a helm's.
Yeah sorry, don't know how it became a double post, I'm on dial up so perhaps I clicked too many times thinking it went through, hopefully an admin can merge them.
no problem at all, didn't mean it in a really bad way. Just thought my post didn't go through.
I was hearing the same thing about the h23 crank being "beefyer" (How do u spell that? ) from a guy named 2point6. He has first-hand experience, so i would say.. ignore my other post about crank weakness. Thanks for correcting me
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1993 Prelude SI
even If the H23 crank is stronger, its not as well balanced for high RPMs. Plus the stock bearings for the H23 suck @ high RPMs (7200+ rpms).
Ever heard of "crank balancing"? It is either balanced or not... Better look up the part #'s for the stock bearings before you say they suck.
________ Dennie
[...]
Vtec solonoid, theres some "RPM modulator" thing that's attached to the firewall with a fuse and such, there are wires attached to Vtec solonoid from the "RPM modulator" thingy, theres a good CAI with K&N filter. No idea if pistons were changed or anything like that either.
[...]
Would the rpm modulator thingy be a rpm activated switch? I know this is a somewhat common way to do a H23 VTEC conversion w/o swapping the ECU. Also allows the tuner to pick the engagement point.
The part I'm not sure of is this: You need a certain amount of oil pressure to activate the system as well... I don't know at what speed you would hit that, and that should, in part, dictate your test procedure. Course if you not familiar with what the VTEC cam profile sounds like then this is going to be of limited use to you anyway... But if my guess about the setup is right then bypassing the window switch is probably a better first step then pulling the head.
Since then my timing belt has broke and the shop figured out that it needs a vtec timing belt and vtec cams but they took out the vtec water pump and now have the H23 waterpump in since he said the Vtec one was causing problems, does this sound right? . I also have low compression on 2 cylinders and appear to have bent valves, so the labor will be $500 plus extra $$ for a Machine Shop to do whatever and for parts as well, he said something about $200-450 more, so max $950 plus the $680 it cost for the timing belt..etc..change. I don't know if it would be cheaper just to find an H23 head and start over back to basics or what. Hoping to find out something tonight so I can tell them what to do tomorrow.
the water pump sounds backwards. H23 water pump drive gear has different teeth than an H22. Basically it mean that an H23 water pump will work with an H23 timing belt, but not an H22 timing belt since it will have different teeth spacings...
I you have an H22 head with H22 cam gears and an H22 Timing Belt Drive Pulley on the crank, you're going to be using an H22 Timing Belt, and an H22 Water Pump Drive Pulley.
If anyone of those is still an H23 item, you are going to have problems (like snapping T-Belts and bent valves) until you get it converted.
hope this makes sence
__________________
96 Prelude R.I.P 6.26.04 www.ntpog.org
- Sneaky Doug (Genious with a Learning Disablity)
NTPOG President
71dsp's Monkey-Wrench-B!tch
To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research.
I've decided its better, cheaper and less complicated (I think) to just find a H23 Complete head and switch my car back to a full Si.
I need to find H23 Headers as well, since the aftermarket ones I have now are for the VTEC head. I'm hoping it's not too hard to switch headers so the mechanic won't charge me tons more for that. Also I hope H23 Headers will bolt into the exhaust cat/testn pipe thing, I don't know whether its been changed or not.
Is there anything else I need to know? I'm getting a H23 Complete Head without problems hopefully from someone on here. Going to get H23 headers as well. Going to have the mechanic revert back to a H23 Timing Belt, Cams and make sure the Water Pump is indeed H23. Is there anything else weird like the injectors ..etc...that I need to know about, I don't know if those were ever changed either.
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