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Old 12-30-2006, 01:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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big problem: Rear sway bar frame mount broke *pics*

So I was driving around and I start hearing this slight knocking from the rear suspension. So I keep driving thinking it is shock knock from the rear tower. I jack up the car and the sway bar mount to the frame the car is punctured. I have NO idea what to do now. Anyone have any ideas?







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Old 12-30-2006, 01:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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holy crap! sorry, i have no idea.
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Old 12-30-2006, 01:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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find someone with a welder, and weld that bish up.

Looks like a stock sway bar too?

My friend busted his rear subframe with a Mugen rear sway bar. Now that, was expensive to fix.
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Old 12-30-2006, 02:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Can I take the rear seat out to get to the mount points?
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Old 12-30-2006, 03:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dohcpower v2.0
find someone with a welder, and weld that bish up.

Looks like a stock sway bar too?

My friend busted his rear subframe with a Mugen rear sway bar. Now that, was expensive to fix.
I agree...man that sucks but a welder can surely fix that. Man what did you hit a major pothole or what!
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Old 12-30-2006, 03:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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common problem with 4th gens. dude from down under had this very same problem after he installed his progress bar.

basically it adds up to decade + old car and the stock mount isn't up to par
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Old 01-01-2007, 12:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ditto. You can weld in a new flat section to the body, then paint & all that jazz... or just remove the rear sway altogether.
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Old 01-01-2007, 08:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
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is painting really necessary?
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Old 01-01-2007, 08:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Removing the rear sway bar a positive or negitive?
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Old 01-01-2007, 10:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by prelude2005
Removing the rear sway bar a positive or negitive?
It'll cause your car to under steer.
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Old 01-02-2007, 09:25 AM   #11 (permalink)
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As most said a welder can fix that. I would weld a support plate onto the rail, drill the appropriate holes and weld threaded nuts on the other side of the rail. You may need slightly longer bolts to compensate for the extra material the support plate will provide but that isn't a biggie.

Paint it and then undercoat it for rust prevention and it should be stronger than new.

You definitely want to keep the sway bar

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Old 01-03-2007, 08:18 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Yeah, I am going to a welding shop here soon

Thanks for the help folks!
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Old 01-04-2007, 11:20 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Since that side is going to be very strong when you repair it, you might want to have the welder throw some welds on the other side to prevent that side from riping out also.

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Old 01-04-2007, 01:49 PM   #14 (permalink)
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In addition I wouldn't worry as much about strength as about placement. You want to make sure that both sides are at the same height, or at least that they swaybar mounts are planar. I would consider welding some nuts to some plate as Mark mentioned to the damaged side, then weld the same plate on top of the other side- just be sure to drill holes for the mounts BEFORE you weld it. The thickness of the material may require new bolts- be sure they thread all the way into the nuts when installed.

Be careful back there, too- you should not need to drop the tank if the welder knows WTF he is doing. Make sure the clamps the welder ground to the frame near the weld and not to the suspension or something that is not in direct electrical connection with the frame rail.
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