I've had some interest on how I built my speaker box in my spare tire well so I figured I would give those interested some insight on how I did it. I don't have any pictures during construction but I will do my best to describe all the steps I took.
First off, IT IS VERY EASY.
My enclosure is made from birch wood (strong and lightweight). I would suggest using a good wood like this so your sure it will take the abuse of all the base. Try to stay away from particle board and even MDF. Birch wood is VERY light and VERY strong.
I don't know the exact dimensions of my box as I did it over a year ago. I think it was 15" X 21" and 5" high. Don't hold me to that but those are the numbers that are ringing a bell. I think the box has about .91 cubic feet of space on the inside. Make sure you measure so you get a box that will fit perfectly. I cut all the pieces necessary to make a 15 X 21 X 5" box and got ready for assembly. You first want to take the 15 X 21 base and get the sides ready for drilling. Place the sides of the box into position and then pre-drill. I put 4 holes on each side. Once all the holes are pre-drilled then you can get ready for final assembly. Place some wood glue around the perimeter of the base and then put the sides in position and screw them down. Once all four sides are screwed down, then you can caulk the box. Use caulk around all the seams on the inside of the box and let it dry overnight.
While that is drying then you can start cutting out the holes for the subs on the top of the box. Use a compass to make your guide circles. I would definitely stick with two eights or a single ten in this type of enclosure. They provide great sound and I think anything more will not function properly in this small of a box. REMEMBER, if you are using eights then you want to make the hole diameter about 7". This allows about a half an inch on each side of the circle for the screws to hole the speaker in place. If you are using tens then the diameter should be 9".
Once that is done then you can pre-drill and screw the top of it to the bottom and sides you just constructed. Once the box has taken shape you can then have to get a little dirty. You have to caulk the seams on the top piece you just screwed down. Put caulk on your pointer finger and insert your hand into the box through the speaker holes and caulk the four remaining seams of the top from the inside. Let that dry overnight as well.
I used a piece of aluminum on top of my box to give it a different look. All I did was place the aluminum sheet on top of the box and cut the circles out of it to line up with the holes in the box. Once that was done, then I just placed my speakers in the holes and pre-drilled the mounting holes. This pre-drilling punched a hole through both the metal and the wood at the same time. Once the speakers are screwed in the aluminum is screwed firmly into place as well. For speaker wiring, I drilled small holes in the back of the box to let the wire through the box and then connected it to the subs. You can buy terminals and install them into the sides of the box if you like, but I never plan on taking out the box so I didn't bother.
There is a knob in the center of the spare tire well which is used to keep the spare firmly in place. You don't need to cut the center knob off because the well is somewhat curved and the center of my box rests on the knob, while the ends of the box sit on the curved section of the wells. It is a perfect fit and does not wiggle from side to side. It is perfectly stationery. I also lined the bottom of the well with a thick bath towel and some bubble wrap (that's right, just like what you use to wrap things for shipping). This stops any wood on metal sounds that may result from hitting a bump.
After the box was completed, I made the upper section and cut out the opening for the box to show through. I made a pattern out of cardboard for the upper section to ensure a tight fit. Just take your time, it's well worth it. I cut the opening and inch smaller on each side so that when the top section is placed on top of the box it holds it in very firmly. I also made the top section very tight fitting (against the rear seats, fender liners, and rear of the trunk) so that it would have no movement during cornering or unexpected bumps. This tight fit also ensures that the box stays stationery as well. I cut the upper portion in three pieces because you can't get it in just as one piece (one large center piece and two smaller outer pieces. NOW THAT I LOOK BACK ON IT, YOU COULD MAKE IT THREE PIECES BUT MAKE IT LOOK LIKE ONE PIECE. YOU CAN HINGE THE TWO SMALLER PIECES TO THE CENTER PIECE AND THEN CARPET THE HOLE THING. WHEN YOU ARE GOING TO INSTALL IT, THE SMALLER OUTER PIECES FOLD INWARDS AND ONCE IN THE TRUNK THEY CAN JUST SWING OUTWARDS AND INTO PLACE, MAKING IT LOOK LIKE ONE BIG PIECE.
Buy speaker box carpeting in dark charcoal and wrap it aroung the upper portion very tightly and stable gun it to the bottom.
Once all that is done then just run all the wires and screw your amp to the upper portion.
Hope that helps you guys and I'm sorry if anything is hard to follow.
Finished result:
Mark
Linear Mode
