Swap time is fast approaching (december 9th the car goes on jackstands). Below is a list of stuff I have, or have ordered. Is there anything else I might need? I'm expecting to make a few trips to Autozone and Home Depot as the need for small parts arrises, and have already included that in my budget. Should I go ahead and change the oil filter, fuel filter, and plugs while I'm at it? Any other routine maintenece items I'm over looking that could be easier to do now? Any input appreciated.
Oh yeah, I plan on taking MANY pics and doing a DEFINITIVE write-up on the swap.
complete H22 swap from Osaka motors
generic short ram intake
Apexi WS exhaust
OEM Honda timnig belt and balance shaft belt
Oil filter, fuel filter, spark plugs (?)
NICE soldering iron, wire, and molex connectors for VTEC wiring
HELMS (for 93 model)!
Jack stands, engine hoist, space heater
New Mobil 1 fluids
More rags, latex gloves, and Simple Green than one person should have
- Engine Oil
- Honda MTF
- Engine Coolant
- Clutch Fluid (Dot3 Brake fluid I believe) to bleed the clutch
- Power Steering fluid (Probably don't need)
I also recommend you get speed bleeders for the clutch, it makes the job so much easier.
And I recommend a big bag of oil dry/mess clean up kitty litter kinda stuff...can stuff will drip/spill out of your engine all the time.
YOu're using an engine hoist? In all honestly that is the HARDEST way to do it. The engine drops out of the bottom so much easier...you are going to have a lot of pain and frustration getting the motor out and the new motor in...I did 3 swaps in 4 days...there were many times when I wanted to just break some stuff. Main issue will be not busting off your TPS sensor trying to move the engines...take off the crank pulley as well.
I was planning on filling up with premium before the car goes on the stands.
What should I use to clean the injectors? I have to pull them out of the JDM fuel rail to put into my USDM rail anyhow, so I might as well clean them in the process. Is there a specialty "fuel injector cleaner" or will an mild solvent work?
I already have new plugs, maybe I'll pick up some wires also. Should I bother with a new dist. cap and rotor as well? Both are pretty inexpensive. I have a new timing belt, balancer belt and water pump (still scared about getting the crank pulley bolt free though).
Are speedbleaders just a special nipple that makes bleeding the clutch easier? Where can I find some?
How high do you have to jack the front of the car up to drop the engine out the bottom? And then how do you line up the new motor to go in from the bottom. I helped a freind put a B18c into his hatchback, which was a good learning experience. Droping his engine in wasn't so bad, once we got the propper angle to clear the tranny. Thanks for all the help!
Originally posted by red92s I already have new plugs, maybe I'll pick up some wires also. Should I bother with a new dist. cap and rotor as well? Both are pretty inexpensive. I have a new timing belt, balancer belt and water pump (still scared about getting the crank pulley bolt free though).
Are speedbleaders just a special nipple that makes bleeding the clutch easier? Where can I find some?
How high do you have to jack the front of the car up to drop the engine out the bottom? And then how do you line up the new motor to go in from the bottom. I helped a freind put a B18c into his hatchback, which was a good learning experience. Droping his engine in wasn't so bad, once we got the propper angle to clear the tranny. Thanks for all the help!
Crank Pulley Bolt = pain! Get a high psi gun if you can.
Speed Bleeders are a special nipple that goes on the clylinder and immediatecloses the valve so no air gets back in..check perf shops they are like $7
You need a car hoist to drop the engine. So it's probably out of the question.
Yes the main pain/key to dropping the engine is finding the righ angle to clear the tranny. With your experience it won't be too bad. Watch your TPS sensor very carfully...
Crank Pulley Bolt = pain! Get a high psi gun if you can.
Yes the main pain/key to dropping the engine is finding the righ angle to clear the tranny. With your experience it won't be too bad. Watch your TPS sensor very carfully...
I'm contemplating just buying the moroso or Snap-on crank pulley tool, which are like $60. I waonder if i'ts possible to put something on the TPS to reduce the chances of smashing it (just something to cover it up). . .or is the clearance to the firewall so tight that you cant fit anything over it? Thanks again. . .
DO you not have impact tools? They're pretty important to have.
umm in a lot of cases I used my hand to cover the tps...it hurt a lot. It's not the firewall really, it's the top piece that hangs over...and some hard lines that go to the fuel filter...maybe take them out first...
Originally posted by Satan_SRV DO you not have impact tools? They're pretty important to have.
umm in a lot of cases I used my hand to cover the tps...it hurt a lot. It's not the firewall really, it's the top piece that hangs over...and some hard lines that go to the fuel filter...maybe take them out first...
I have a small air compressor and some light duty air tools, but I have a feeling the crank pulley wouldn't budge with what I have. I Have access to a nicer compressor and impact gun, but it would require transporting the engine across town first. Most people on Honda-tech had some success with a 1/2" drive breaker bar and extension, both of which I have. Maybe Osaka can break it loose for me before the ship it out. After looking at my engine bay, I can totally see the problematic overhang area for the TPS. . .maybe I can rig up something to shield it.
You migt want to change your water pump while you have the timing belts off. Much easier and you know it has a good one. That's what I'm planning to do.
When I did my first swap I took it out the top and was done with the swap in 1 day. Took about 6 hours to get it out bacause the axles were the biggest b*tch I have ever delt with. Man those things pissed me off that day. Also satan why do you recommend Honda MTF over regular oil? any special reason? All of my swaps I have used regular oil. Also if you want to avoid TPS from getting broken take off the IM thats what I did.
Originally posted by sik96prelude When I did my first swap I took it out the top and was done with the swap in 1 day. Took about 6 hours to get it out bacause the axles were the biggest b*tch I have ever delt with. Man those things pissed me off that day. Also satan why do you recommend Honda MTF over regular oil? any special reason? All of my swaps I have used regular oil. Also if you want to avoid TPS from getting broken take off the IM thats what I did.
You put regular oil into your transmission??
Honda MTF = Honda Manual Transmission Fluid
Oh yeah I forgot...we took of the Throttle body the second time, doh!
sure did. So has everyone else I know who has done a swap. Some are even pushin over 300WHP. Mine has been perfect for a few years now. Why do you ask?
You will need a 19mm deep impact socket for the JDM crank pulley.
You will also need to use the crank pully from the USDM motor if you want to keep your USDM accessories.
Get new belts and as many hoses as you can afford, it will save you time in the long run.
Originally posted by Absolut You will need a 19mm deep impact socket for the JDM crank pulley.
You will also need to use the crank pully from the USDM motor if you want to keep your USDM accessories.
Get new belts and as many hoses as you can afford, it will save you time in the long run.
The axle nuts are 19 mm as well, right? Ohhhh, greeeaatt. . .so I get to take off TWO crank pullies?! What a PITA!
I know a lot of people that just use regular oil in the tranny. I think the Chilton's or Haynes manual actually calls for it. I think I'll play it safe and go with Honda MTF, but everyone I know with motor oil in the tranny has been problem free.
I'm thinking I may put the Apexi exhaust on hold and use the money for new accessory belts and hoses. I just wanna make sure everything is ship-shape when she gets dropped in. . .the exhaust can wait till summer.
EDIT: where is the best place to get belts and hoses and such? Should I just order from HAP.com?
Originally posted by sik96prelude the axle bolts are 36mm not 19.
You don't need to take off the axle nuts if you disconnect the lower ball joint or the thing (I don't know names) from the control arm so you can move the axle out of the way....
Cause getting the axles back into the hub is a pain and a half.
Maybe Osaka can break it loose for me before the ship it out.
You order your engine from osaka? How much do you pay for it shipped? I think they have an extremely cheap price. I am looking to do my swap too in the near future.
Please do the COMPLETE ULTIMATE write-up for me, coz I have a base model too, 92 S.
I am excited now to know how it turns out on your swap. Keep me updated.
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