Anyone have any tips on pulling driveshafts? - Honda Prelude Forum

laughin2.2 · 01-06-2003, 11:41 AM

I've got the ball joint undone, but the axles don't want to come loose. I've been trying to pry it out from the side, but the hub keeps turning away and I'm afraid that I'll damage the CV joint. Any tips on how to make this easier?

Scalifludesi · 01-06-2003, 01:07 PM

did you take the big spindle nut on the rotor? When I did mine I just used a big pry bar and it came off easily. If that doesn't work ask someone to help you pull the axle while prying it out.

SikRedRX-8 · 01-06-2003, 01:21 PM

Don't pull the ends cause you will cause the joints to come out. Use a pry between the axle and tranny. They are a pain but they will come eventually.

Forbidden · 01-06-2003, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by sik96prelude
Don't pull the ends cause you will cause the joints to come out. Use a pry between the axle and tranny. They are a pain but they will come eventually.

What he said! They are a PITA to get back together too...

Scalifludesi · 01-06-2003, 01:37 PM

Oh yea I forgot....don't pull on the end. If you do need to pull it, pull from its base (tranny side).

red92s · 01-06-2003, 01:49 PM

Try to get another person to support and guide (NOT PULL) the rotor/hub assembly. A pry bar didnt work for me at first either. I used a a 6" length of wood and a hammer to tap get the axles started, and then pulled like a mofo.

LoudLude · 01-06-2003, 02:21 PM

if the only part left connected is the inboard cv joint to the tranny, there is one snap ring holding it. If you have a new set there look at them, you will see what I am talking about. If you know what you are working against you have a better chance.

It should come out with a short pry bar. I actually did my friends the other night with a strong screwdriver. If it doesnt seem to want to come out, move the inboard joint in a cicrular motion (basically wiggle) to loosen and reposition that snap ring, then try again. also try pulling (only on the housing) while wiggling in a circular motion.

just play with it, it will come.

[SUB[EX] · 01-06-2003, 06:31 PM

Yea, just use a pry bar. Just give it a very hard jolt and it usually will come out. You gota get it hard tho.

laughin2.2 · 01-06-2003, 06:35 PM

Thanks for the responses. I'm doing it the right way now. I took 2' pry bar and leg pressed the hell out of it. Then I gave in and got a plastic hammer for the outer ones. The passenger's side came out fine with the right tools, but I was hitting the driver's side one so hard that the plastic hammer started smoking(literally). I should be actually dropping the tranny sometime tonight. Any advice on changing the clutch and throwout bearing? Also, is it necessary to resurface the flywheel if there is no uneven wear?

laughin2.2 · 01-06-2003, 07:51 PM

Ok, the tranny is ready to be dropped and my dumbarse realized that I don't have to take out the driver's side outward joint. So do I have to get the flywheel resurfaced?

Dr. James · 01-06-2003, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by laughin2.2
Ok, the tranny is ready to be dropped and my dumbarse realized that I don't have to take out the driver's side outward joint. So do I have to get the flywheel resurfaced?

YES!!!! You need to get the flywheel resurfaced!!! It's the same concept as brake rotors, you never put in a new clutch without a new or resurfaced flywheel, same as pads with rotors. The flywheel will need to be resurfaced properly, in 2 steps. Take it to someone with experience turning Honda Flywheels.

laughin2.2 · 01-06-2003, 08:17 PM

Argh, that's what I was afraid of. I'm assuming Honda can do this for an inflated price? I really don't fee like buggin Osofast to do it for me. I'll just keep telling myself that the experience is worth all of the money that I've put into tools and misc. parts over the last 3 days.

PreludeRacer023 · 01-07-2003, 02:18 AM

it is NOT nessecary to resurface your flywheel, if its not scored or anything...i changed my clutch 6 months ago, and didnt resurface...it works great....also...in the same concept, you dont have to resurface your brakes everytime you change your pads......so unless you see or can feel damage, just replace the clutch..u will also have to have 12 point socets to reover or tighten the bolts holding the pressure plate on...and flywheel boltsother than that its a snap...no sweat...peace

X01VTEC · 01-08-2003, 03:23 PM

i think in this situation, i would go ahead and have the flywheel resurfaced. especially if someone isnt really familiar with flywheels and such, or maybe i should say just starting to really work on a car. Reasoning would be that, though "like" a brake rotor, the flywheel isnt easily gotten to, if for some reason you would have to go back and get it resurfaced, its not like you'll just have to take a wheel off and a caliper loose.

Satan_SRV · 01-08-2003, 03:46 PM

Hey I took my tranny off...but I'm just putting it back on the same clutch/flywheel in a while I don't need to resurface if I am not changing anything do i?

[SUB[EX] · 01-08-2003, 06:59 PM

Well its always a good idea to resurface it. But i didnt do mine either. Its not very expensive to do tho.

I didnt remove either of my outer CV's when i did mine a few weeks ago. Good luck dude. I wouldnt want to do mine again any time soon. Make sure you get that tranny mount back in before you get it in position.

laughin2.2 · 01-09-2003, 01:51 AM

I got the flywheel off and it was looking pretty rough, so I took it to Napa at 10 AM and they had it ready for me by noon. Then I got my wisdom teeth pulled at 1:20 pm and I crashed for the rest of the day. It's now 3AM and I feel fine except for the spitting out blood thing. I'll put the fresh flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate in tomorrow morning. I figure I should be able to get my nitrous stuff from S and S tomorrow, slip the tranny back on when my dad gets home, and have everything put back in by Friday night. I'll have a few pics of me on Vicatin working on my car. It should be amusing.