Another Clutch Fluid issue, probably slave.. Take a quick look please - Honda Prelude Forum

playaforiife · 03-17-2009, 11:06 PM

okay,

94 prelude vtec.

When i did new motor 2 years ago i replaced the slave cylinder as i had no clutch pressure. It was rusted ****.

After 2 years of hard driving/shifing on my unsprung 3 punk clutch, im having issues.

Under easy shifting 4K max shifts. its fine for about 3 weeks without adding fluid. Then when petal feels week, i check/add fluid.

Well under ONE hard shift 4K or above, i lose ALL pressure from clutch, and am empty on fluid. Once i add pump and what not it builds pressure again (eventually)

VERY ANNOYING.

Fluid is leaking from the clutch line, RIGHT where it connects to slave cylinder. Right from that spot.

Also leaking on other end of that clutch line, where it hooks with trans and than goes to another line...

Is this a slave issue? Would it leak like that from both ends with a slave issue???

Thanks!!!

spin_r_g · 03-17-2009, 11:25 PM

Why would leaks be a slave issue? If the slave was bad then it would leak it self or the piston wouldn't move. Fix the clutch line where it's leaking at both ends. Even if the slave is good, with those leaks you'll never have pressure and all the fluid will leak out.

playaforiife · 03-17-2009, 11:31 PM

Why would it be leaking? That is the real question i guess.. The line never leaked, and now out of the blue is "blown" And cant handle the pressure?

I was thinking the slave might have been bad before since i only noticed fluid coming from the slave side of the line. But today noticed on the otherside as well.

I have never heard or had a clutch line just go out, generally its something else causing the issue.

2nd opinion?!?!

MLBZ521 · 03-17-2009, 11:44 PM

This happens a lot on the Clutch Lines.. More often the issue is the Damper though, it goes bad.

But since you're leaking at two different points, I'm assuming it might not be the Damper, just the lines are old.
I highly doubt it's the Slave when the lines are leaking..

If you want to replace then with stock lines, I the the ones off my car that I can sell you.
I replaced my entire clutch system summer '07, so these have just been sitting in storage since.

playaforiife · 03-17-2009, 11:51 PM

Yeah, its just dripping out from where it twists together on both sides. There is alot of fluid on the damper side, pooled up. I have gone threw two little containers of fluid tho. Is the damper a common fault? I read about someone getting a new line, and just running straight from master to slave. Deleating the damper.

Humm

MLBZ521 · 03-17-2009, 11:55 PM

Yes, the Damper failing is common.

I have deleted my Damper; replaced the entire clutch line.

Let me know if you want my parts, lines, I still have the Damper, and it's till in good/usable condition.

playaforiife · 03-18-2009, 12:54 AM

Thanks but i wont need it. Im still seeing what the problem is. But if in fact it is the damper, i will delete it as well. Will help my wire tuck.

MLBZ521 · 03-18-2009, 02:14 PM

.......I don't know what else it could be if you've found where the symptom is.....?

1) Either your Lines are loose and need to be tightened OR
2) Your Lines are bad and need to be replaced.

What else could it be?

mooncaller · 03-18-2009, 05:11 PM

Pretty much, only things that should cause a problem like that in a closed loop fluid system are:
Bad connections
Expansion in the lines beyond normal tolerances
Too much pressure such that it is causing problems at the end

That last issue shouldn't really ever be a problem, or should be remedied by better connections.

- Corey

playaforiife · 03-20-2009, 10:39 AM

fantastic..

Well i thank you all for your help. And giving me advise before i went and spent money.

The stock hard line is tight on both ends. There are still threads showing, but its tight. And has been fine since the start. So the line must be shot.

I assumed that where that hard line meets on bell housing and goes to rubber line, was the damper. But infact it is farther back. behind the im?

So since i have leaks at slave, at bell, and who knows about the damper, im going to just have a straight line made.

i read 7' 12mmX1.0 - 3an one side and 10mmX1.0 - 3an on other. Perferabily with 45 or 90 degree bends on each side. So ill get to the hydro shop next week.

This litteraly hooks directly to mc and slave? Nothing else needs to be installed?

THANKS!!

playaforiife · 03-20-2009, 10:40 AM

oh and to not sound too stupid when explaining the brake line i need, when is is 3 an

Is that

-3an ?

Seen peope type like its a neg number?

Also what does The an stand for? What part of the line is that?

MLBZ521 · 03-20-2009, 03:55 PM

The Damper is on the Passenger Side Frame Rail. It's right behind/next to the Trans.

If you wait, I'll find out EXACTLY what you'll need and where you can order it from for a SS Line.

I'm pretty sure "AN" stands for "Army Navy," at least that's something I read at some point.

Here's a little write-up I did.. But it doesn't have a lot info sorry. It'll get updated someday..
And the pictures are working at the moment.. I'm looking into it right now..
MLBZ521's Prelude Site

MLBZ521 · 03-20-2009, 03:58 PM

playaforiife · 03-20-2009, 05:24 PM

Dude, you are the man. Those pictures really bring it clear for me.

I have an absoutly fantastic shop here in town, and after calling them, they said they can make anything i need.

So i wont be needing part numbers, but if you can clearly write out the exacts so i can be sure to buy everything. Dont wanna get halfway and realized im F'ed haha

So im thinkin

7" 3an steal breaded brake line. Looking at your picture - Do they always just come male one end, female on other?

12mmX1.0 on one end
10mmX1.0 on other They should know what this is? its the screw type fitting right? And this makes so both ends are now male?

and two strong 90 degree fitting adapters. to make the line run more comfey.

Thanks so much, should swing by on my next day off. grab and install. Ill get more pics too!

MLBZ521 · 03-21-2009, 03:10 AM

Sorry, been busy today..

This is what you need.

-3 AN to 12mm x 1.0 Male/Male from Master Cylinder
To a
Female -3 AN to Female -3 AN SS 6' Line
To a
-3 AN to 10mm x 1.0 Male/Male and will need a 45° bend fitting to the Slave Cylinder

Part Numbers I was given are: 306-03-M12S, 610372, S1047-31S, & FSC-903S.
306-03-M12S - Part Number for Adapter - http://mlbz521.scorchgaming.com/Proj...h%20Line_4.JPG
610372 - Pretty sure this is the SS Line Part Number - http://mlbz521.scorchgaming.com/Proj...h%20Line_1.JPG
S1047-31S - Pretty sure this is the 45° Piece Part Number - http://mlbz521.scorchgaming.com/Proj...h%20Line_2.JPG
FSC-903S - 90° Swivel Adapter (Stainless) instead of the Blue 45° - http://mlbz521.scorchgaming.com/Proj...%20Line_11.JPG

All you need is a six foot line. Unless you just want an extra foot to be in the way... I have mine bolted to the firewall in the same way the stock Hardline is. Same mounting clips and all. If you'd like pictures of this I might can take some tomorrow..

I had this made by Techna-Fit | Stainless Steel Brake and Clutch Lines. What I paid was more as I bought a 45° fitting after the line, that then broke (Also didn't give enough space) and had to overnight the 90° fitting. It'll cost at most $50 Shipped from them, if not less.. Parts only add up to $37.

The problem with going to Hydraulic Line Shops is most do not carry AN sizes this small.. I drove around to five different shots one day trying to find a shop that carried these fitting sizes.. Smallest anyone had was -4AN and they would have to order them as they didn't keep them in stock..

I'd check to see how much they'll charge you if they carry those sizes.. Most people that have done thing paid $70 - $90 for their lines. Where I'm sending you will get it much much cheaper.

playaforiife · 03-23-2009, 07:56 PM

Well, went to the hydro shop today. They had everything i needed. was 70 bucks out the door. Female -3 an ss cable, that was 6 feet long. He put the 90 degree bends in the actual line ends. Than i just got the fittings 12mm 1.0 for slave. and the only kind for master was the blue alum 12mm 1.0 fitting (weaker but works fantasticly)

install took ten min.

While i was removing all the old stuff i started tearin my broken ac lines and cooler out.

Car shifts hard, and no leaks!

Problem solved.

Thanks!

MLBZ521 · 03-23-2009, 08:13 PM

Good good then.

Yea, I loved the Clutch feel after the conversion. Can't tell any difference now. But it felt much different after though.

And yea, the swap is quick.. Though, I didn't know I had to remove the frickin' Rad Fan to get the Slave back on, and to remove the Fan, I had to remove the top Hose..... And to think I had to do this multiple times because of what I thought was the problem wasn't.. Stupid Slaves! :P

But removing the old lines takes longer than putting the new one on.

G_Loc · 03-23-2009, 10:03 PM

No need to remove the fan, but since you already did it... More power to you lol

MLBZ521 · 03-23-2009, 10:29 PM

Eh, well, I did this back in the Summer of '07, but I couldn't get my wrench/socket in between the Slave+Bolts and the Fan.. Sorry, I didn't think about that.. So it might not be actually required, but it was for me unfortunately..

Heh