I have searched and not found anyone to have quite the same problem as me.
I start the car and the abs light goes out like it is supposed to. I drive around for maybe 1-2 minutes and it then pops on. I had to slam on the brakes the other day and the ABS does work. (felt the pulsing in the pedal). Any ideas?
If the brakes needed to be bleed would it cause this problem?
Or is it more than likely a part of the ABS system that needs to be replaced. I tried to do that CEL thing to get a code but got nothing.
The same thing happened to me all except the ABS working still. You cant get the code from the CEL because it is not an engine problem. You will need to go to a dealership and get them to pull the code, or find a shop that has a scanner even though no shops are technically supposed to have them. Just hope you dont have the same problem as I did. I had to replace my ABS pump motor & accumulator assembly $1100 just for the part right there.
You can get the code just like you would get a CEL code, when you jump the connector the ABS light will flash. Count the number of times it flashes and somebody should be able to tell you what it means.
How long ago did you replace your actual brake pads?
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I actually installed an AEM big brake kit with AEM brake pads about 3k miles ago. It did not come on as soon as i did the install. It came on about 500 miles afterwards (which was actually about a year).
its soo simple to replace the abs unit. i went to the junk yard, got it off another prelude same 4th gen, for 75$ i was going to install it then my friend sugested someone should install it becasue of bleeding the system, so i took it to this guy installed it for 80$, though i could have done what he did because he made me go to someone else to bleed the system, and i was on the freeway doing well over 80mph with like brakes that go down to the floor, so for an extra 25$ i got my system bled and my abs task completed for only 80+75+25.......thats 180 wow...the dealership wanted 1000 just for the part....
Awesome. That does sound easy. I have stainless steel brakelines i have been waiting to put on, i guess i can do it all at once.
Thanks for all the info.
hey i knew what the problem was. the car started once i pressed on the brakes, after 30seconds the brake light came on. so i fixed that problem now today my brake light started to burn the dash the red one below the abs, so from my conclusion it was the handbrake, so i put it up and down and the light dimmed and when i put it up it got brighter, so i thought what else it could be and i though low brake fluid, so i cheked the book and thats what it was so i checked th engine bay, and guess what? low brake fluid, when to the abs unit that white trash inbreed idiot ( i am white btw) fking did not skrew the 1st brake line correclty and it was bleeding, so now i have to go and get that redone and re flush the system fking idiots......i should have just done it myself.....well it still cost me 180 + 2.15 for extra brake fluid......and thats the least of my worries, i just put onetouch window up down both passanger and drivers side and also when i arm my system the dei 530t window module, 10 hours of headaches got someone to help me out, fixed it and now its soo sweet, i arm my system my windows roll up, i remote start and roll down the windows the music trances around...its sweet this country
I'm not saying you didn't knew what was wrong with your car, but don't assume that because the ABS light is on that the ABS unit need to get replaced like your post seemed to suggest, I wouldn't want lextasy to spend money on an ABS unit if it's something like a wheel sensor that needs to get replaced.
lextasy: check the ABS code to know what you need to replace or fix
I bought a new unit on ebay for 80 bucks, put it in myself (was a bi*** cause of the stupid brake lines), and the damn thing still doesnt engage. So it might be the motor or pump compressor which is located under the unit.
Yeah, I was going to tell you how to fix it but it looks like you got to it the same way I did.
My Brake light kept coming on in corners for awhile. Then they would stay on until I pumped the handbrake for awhile. Then a few days down the road I could never get them off, at this time the ABS light would pop on 30sec's later. I figure, the computer is smart and is not going to be able to do it's job correctly, or to it's best ability if your brakes are worn so it's gonna get you to replace them by annoying the Fugg out of you.
Anyways, after driving like that for awhile with the BRAKE and ABS light ON the 4WS light would come on as well about 5mins into the drive. The 4WS I could fix simple. When I was at a stop light I would turn off the car for five seconds then restart it. Soon ans I restarted I cranked RIGHT full on the wheel then LEFT full on the wheel and 4WS light bo BYE BYE!
My pops figured the brake fluid needed filled and he was right. He told me put some in there enough to get the light off and order some pads. New pads, and PRESTO!
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The pads fixed the abs light and the 4ws light? Mine does the same thing but its full of fluid and has new pads on the front. I dont know the condition of the rear pads tho.
After swapping engines in my car a few months ago, my ABS light comes on when I hit about 5-10 miles an hour and stays on. Unlike some of you other fellows, my ABS is definately NOT working. Otherwise the brakes seem fine, so I've just been driving it like that until I can get a couple other things fixed. That light is annoying though.....
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Back on the road...after four years sitting.
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