I don't see anywhere where the guy said the engine was swapped or that it had modifications?
I'd say with a price like that, if the body was in good conditions, all of the symptoms you listed could be cured easily with a swap of a brand new engine, but it really all depends I guess.
its still the ORIGINAL engine, JUST a CAI...i know the guy blocked some valve on the middle of the intake manifold..they put a piece of aluminum to close the hole. i guess the car was reving a bit high. and that lowered the rpms, but made it hard to start like a carburetor engine. the engine in general looks clean.... am i looking for too much to do the repairs? i know the vtec might not be engaging cause the tachometer is not working at all or it could be a bad vss. bad vtec solenid???
So he blocked the IAC valve? If the body is in perfect condition (minus the paint of course) id say get it. Like prepreludesh said, if worse comes to worse..you could always swap in a fresh motor and have a perfectly running car for the same price (if not cheaper) than most cars selling that run like crap.
Just my 2 pennies, depends on cash flow, what your lookin to get outta the car, etc..
ok heres a picture of what its being blocked...sorry i dont know whats its called im new to the preludes lol
is this the cause of vtec not engaging?
i just want it to drive to work i just sold my 93 mx6, v6 5sp....that was my baby..but now my brother gave me me a 5th gen but its in the processes of being sold as well. i just want a 4th gen, those are the ones i really like. so, thats why im interested in the 1 they are selling me.
I don't see anywhere where the guy said the engine was swapped or that it had modifications?
d'oh, I misread it then...
Anywho, is the CEL on? If so, you may want to pull the code to figure out exactly what sensor is bad, as some are expensive to replace. If it's that MAP sensor, that will cost you a pretty penny to fix and will make the car run like crap.
From what I see, he has two vacuum hoses not connected. Which, has a very high chance of causing idle issues, tach issues, and could possibly throw off the VTEC engagement.
At $1000, if the body is in very good shape and the interior is to, you have a really good shell for $1000. I mean, to me, it seems like a good deal.
i bought the car! for $300 the body is ok. and thats not an actual picture of the engine, i used it as reference to show u guys what is being bloked off..is that the IAC valve?
the idle screw is closed. but the revs are high. so i unplugged the iac valve and the revs dropped a bit. i also sealed off the fast idle valve and moved that coolant line. car is not overheating now. revs are normal with these things done but i have a check engine light for the iac...so im guessing the valve is bad. now i have the h22a1. the iac for this application is expensive. will other valves work? example: from an h23, f22, h22a4, etc?
I had the same problem when my TPS went bad. I ended up driving the car for a few years with the IAC unplugged lol.
There's a few threads with instructions on how to measure the TPS voltage and how to replace it. The part itself is pretty cheap ($35 or so). I believe Blox is the name of the company that makes them.
oh shoot, so what should i check first? tps or aic? if the tsp is bad then, the aic might work? i have a 5th gen as well. can i use the parts from that one to test if they work?
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