ABS Pump and Motor - Honda Prelude Forum

telstaboy · 02-01-2005, 03:45 PM

Greetings. Does anyone know if the abs pump,motor assembly can be rebuilt? If so, who performs this service. Bought one off ebay and I am still getting thesame dtc code from the original after installing the unit and removing the fuse to clear the codes. 1200.00 is a lot of money for a new unit, so I took the chance on the ebay one. I don't think that it panned out. Any help would be appreciated.

hawkze_56 · 02-01-2005, 08:53 PM

In all honesty, I would just take it out. What a hassle that's going to be getting it tested, troubleshot and fixed....

I took mine out in my 4G and it wasn't toooo hard, but not easy. Plus it simplifes things, cleans up your engine bay, and drops some wieght.

telstaboy · 02-01-2005, 09:03 PM

How did you plug the lines up from the master cylinder?

hawkze_56 · 02-01-2005, 09:30 PM

Why would you plug up any lines? You just run them straight from the MC to the prop. valve to the calipers....

X01VTEC · 02-02-2005, 12:15 AM

i have an extra one lying around. cash or trade =)

telstaboy · 02-02-2005, 03:46 AM

how much do you want for it?

telstaboy · 02-02-2005, 04:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hawkze_56

Why would you plug up any lines? You just run them straight from the MC to the prop. valve to the calipers....

The mc has only two outlets that feed the abs motor. Did you change out the mc to a four outlet unit or what?

hawkze_56 · 02-02-2005, 07:42 AM

Ohhh..I got ya. You need a proportioning valve that has 2 inlets and 4 outlets. I got one from a Prelude 'S' model at a junkyard. I also got the brake lines from that car because it comes without ABS from the factory.

Forbidden · 02-02-2005, 07:49 AM

hawkze: what parts did you have to get to remove it? prop valve and lines? which lines need to be replaced? how much did this cost you?

hawkze_56 · 02-02-2005, 08:50 AM

Here you go---

I posted this on Honda-tech a while ago, so here's a copy of my post--

Glad you posted this, I just finished mine today. It was a LOT more work than I thought it would be....I'll get pics tommorrow....
Get this stuff from the junkyard to save lots of money....

Stuff you need--

-Prelude S brake hard lines (6 total), or custom bend your own from Autozone/OReilly
-Prelude S proportioning valve
-Prelude S master cylinder
-Prelude S brake booster
-Prelude S brake pedal bracket(the thing that connects the pedal to the back of the booster pushrod) Why the **** that has to be different I don't know, but it is....
-Lots of time...

It's easier with the engine out, but I did it with it in and it sucked...

1. Remove the ABS unit. There's 4 bolts holding the bastard in. Some have to be accessed from below. The easiest thing is to cut the brake lines going into the ABS thing where they screw in....If you can't get the unit out...stop now...

2. Now that the unit is out, remove all of the brake hard lines from the rest of the engine compartment. There's a ton, just cut them out and throw them away...

3. Now remove the proportioning valve, other hard lines from the m. cylinder and then remove the master cylinder. The S cylinder is different from the SI/VTEC because one of the threads is bigger...

4. This part SUX. Remove the brake booster...What a pain in the ASS!! Whatever bastard thought of this crap needs to die. The ABS booster is different from the non-ABS..WTF?? Anyhow, it's very hard to get out. Unbolt it from inside where the brake pedal is(4 screws)....and then pull the thing out. I had to remove my plenum and some other crap and still pull and twist....

5. Install all the parts from the S model: Do the lines and prop. valve first, then the booster and m. cylinder....Don't forget the pedal/booster attachment thing from the S....

6. Rear lines...you can bend the SI/VTEC ones if you're good, but it's not easy, cuz they don't match up either....nor is it easy to install the S ones....so pick which one you want to do.....or "theoretically" you could just plug up the back ones temporarily...but no one would ever do that, would they....

7. Fill reservior, bleed brakes, check for leaks, drive car and make sure everything is OK.

Congrats, you just saved about 25lbs (I weighed the thing), and cleaned up the engine bay dramatically...

Side note: Vinyl tubing does NOT work to repair a cut brake line, and junkyard m. cylinders with rust a'plenty don't work to well. If you can, get new OEM stuff, but rebuilt from the parts store is OK, too....Oh, and flaring a brake line properly is extremely difficult....

Any other ?'s just ask....

You don't actually need a new MC and booster if you can flare your own brake lines. I kept trying and couldn't get it right, so that's why I had to change so many parts. I was a ****...

hawkze_56 · 02-02-2005, 08:51 AM

Here's the link--ABS removal

X01VTEC · 02-03-2005, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by telstaboy

how much do you want for it?

hell i dont know, maybe 35 bucks depending on shipping

petern101 · 02-03-2005, 12:37 PM

hmm i need to do this too...........since my abs light comes on after about 30 seconds worth of driving.......i could sit idle when i first turn on the car and it will never turn on.........

Forbidden · 02-03-2005, 03:20 PM

hawkze: nice thanks a lot! Quite some work for only 25lbs saving though... I would've though it would be more than that. I guess I'll keep mine in and maybe someday I'll get that speed sensor replaced

telstaboy · 02-03-2005, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by X01VTEC

hell i dont know, maybe 35 bucks depending on shipping

So you know for sure that it works? The price sounds good to me. I live in zipcode 32958 if you want to get a shipping quote. Thanks